Self-guided Berchtesgaden, Germany
Sights
Hiking
Events & Festivals
Sights
Note: Throughout this section and guide I have listed the discount you will receive with the “overnight guest card.” In short, if you stay the night in Berchtesgaden you’ll be given a guest card, locally Kurkarte.
Eagle’s Nest.
Obersalzberg, Hitler’s former neighborhood.
Salt Mines, locally Salzbergwerk, (daily May-Oct 9:00-16:50 last entry, Nov-April 11:00-14:50 last entry, except closed Nov 1, Dec 24-25 & 31, Jan 1, Good Friday and Whit Monday; adult 15€, child 4-16yr 9.50€, family 37-41€, 3€ discount with valid Salzburg Card or .50¢ with overnight guest card, www.salzwelt.de, tel. 08652/600-220). Since the year 1517 Berchtesgaden’s alpine caverns have been a rich source of salt. Although the mines are still actively producing brine, another lucrative resource has since materialized: tourism. On average 400,000 visitors descend upon the salt mines each year. Embarking on a subterranean adventure, tourists eagerly throw on the provided pair of reflective blue overalls (that appear more like a NASA space suit than duds worn by traditional miners) and ride the narrow-gauge railway nearly half a mile (650m/2,132ft) deep into the mountain, swoosh down slick slides (like yours truly pictured), navigate a salty lake, and some even go as far as to lick the sodium-rich tunnel walls that in many parts resemble taffy.
A tour of the mine takes about an hour, but that’s once you get inside. Expect to wait anywhere from 15 minutes during low season and up to two hours in high season (July/Aug). Suggestion: You can minimize the wait time by purchasing your tickets online (go to www.salzreise.de, click the English flag, enter the number of persons in your group then click ‘Continue,’ select your arrival date, follow the prompts, enter your CC details then print the receipt to give to the cashier upon your arrival). If you’re not able to book ahead and are faced with a long wait, you can kill time by moseying along the river and checking out the Watzmann Therme (see below). Drivers can reduce the wait time by dropping someone off at the ticket booth en route to parking the car. Note: The mines are not for claustrophobics; confined spaces abound! GPS: N47 38.248 E13 01.028. To get there, the salt mines are nestled along a pretty jade-green stream on Bergwerkstrasse, which runs off the main road connecting Berchtesgaden with Salzburg. Railers, from Berchtesgaden’s train station, either walk 30 min to the mines or catch bus 840 or 848 (typically departing daily 9:15, 10:15, 13:20, 15:15, also Mon-Fri 11:15, 12:15, 13:50, 16:15) and get off at Salzbergwerk (5-min ride, then short walk); small groups consider a taxi (about 8€ one way, tel. 08652/4041). Railers, from Salzburg’s train station, catch bus 840; notify driver to drop you off at Salzbergwerk (then short walk to mines). 
Drivers, if you’re coming from Salzburg, follow signs to Berchtesgaden. As you approach town follow Salzbergwerk signs (right) into the parking lot. Drivers, from the center of Berchtesgaden, pass the pedestrian shopping zone (left) and follow the road as it curves right. At the bottom of the hill turn left at the traffic light (direction Salzburg)—this is almost a U-turn. Now you’re on Bergwerkstrasse. Pass the second set of lights and a short distance farther follow Salzbergwerk signs (left) into parking area; (if it’s high season and you don’t have a pre-reserved start time at the salt mines, turn right at the second set of lights and drop someone off to get in line for tickets while you park the car. After the drop-off, continue straight to the main road, turn left and follow Salzbergwerk signs right into the parking lot).
PURCHASE the full do-it-yourself Berchtesgaden, Obersalzberg & Hitler's Eagle's Nest destination guide, pdf file download or traditional-style guidebook (pictured below). See this guidebook on Amazon.com
Click thumbnail for larger image (but note the actual size of the guidebook is 5.06" x 7.81", not what's shown).
Brett Harriman (Photoshoped) is seen here at spectacular Königssee lake holding the Berchtesgaden, Obersalzberg & Hitler's Eagle's Nest guidebook. (2012 guide out soon) See this guidebook on Amazon.com
(See Comments at the bottom of the page and feel free to add one of your own!)
This map I hand-drew, thus it is far from faultless.
Königssee, (www.seenschifffahrt.de, tel. 08652/963-618), boats run daily year round, mid-May thru Sept every 30 min 8:30-16:45 (July thru mid-Sept 8:00-17:15) and hourly Oct thru April 9:55-15:45. Price (for round trip to St. Bartholomew—35 min each way), adult 12.80€, youth 6-17yr 6.40€, family 32.50€, dog 2.50€, 10% discount with valid Bayern-Ticket.
Cool blue and magnificently photogenic, Königssee (meaning King’s Lake) is one of Germany’s cleanest lakes, secluded deep in the wilds of Berchtesgaden’s 210 sq km (81 sq mi) national park treasured for its unspoiled beauty and nature trails. Königssee is the only lake in Central Europe most similar to a fjord, a long and narrow body of water flanked by vertical rock walls cut by an immense glacier during an ice age. What’s more, Königssee is Bavaria’s deepest lake at 192 m (630 ft); it is 8 km (5 mi) long; 1.25 km (.77 mi) at its widest point; and it is hemmed in on three sides by the Alps, including the snow-peaked Watzmann, which cast their dreamy reflection on the lake’s resplendent surface. Königssee is so clear and clean that it boasts drinking-quality water, and the locals are intent on keeping it pure, thus swimming in the lake is atypical and the classic wooden boats that cruise across it are electrical. The 100-year-old Königsseer fleet of 18 boats quietly ship more than 700,000 people annually across the lake’s emerald-green waters. (This intriguing color reflected by the sun is the result of minerals, primarily gypsum and limestone, washing into the lake from the mountains. Königssee feeds the streams and rivers in Berchtesgaden and therefore they, too, mirror this captivating color.) Most visitors disembark at St. Bartholomew to marvel its postcard-pretty 12th-century church. Midway into the cruise the captain stops the boat to blow his trumpet at the sheer cliffs prompting the “Königsseer echo.” Hikers wander 90 min beyond St. Bartholomew to the Ice Chapel (see below), and from the Königssee boat dock they make tracks to the dramatic must-see vista at Painter’s Corner (see below). 
Interestingly, the lake rarely freezes over and therefore boats run daily year round. The last time the lake froze was during the winter of 2005-06. It was so cold, and the ice so thick, that people were allowed to walk and skate across the lake, but nobody reached St. Bartholomew quicker than the guy who dared to drive his car there. Really!
Königssee is truly wunderbar; come experience it for yourself! That said, the clutter of kitschy souvenir shops and eateries, including a McDonald’s, you have to pass to reach the lake and boat dock hardly complement the alpine setting. Oh, and the myriad ducks embellishing the shoreline would be very appreciative if you tossed a few bread crumbs their way. Quack! Romantics, seize the opportunity to row your partner around this stunningly beautiful setting (boat rental 2 pax 6€/hr, 4 pax 9€/hr, 36€/day, 50€ cash deposit, walk left of the Königssee dock to the wooden boat shed marked Ruderboote, mid-May thru beginning of October 11:00-17:00, otherwise closed). GPS: N47 35.576 E12 59.237. To get there, Königssee is located 5 km south of Berchtesgaden at the end of Königsseer Strasse, beginning opposite the train station. En route, your journey to the lake will be in view of the Eagle’s Nest perched high above upon its pointy peak (to your left). Drivers, Königsseer Strasse ends at the parking lot, 4€ for day ticket (Tageskarte) or 2€ for holders of the overnight guest card (Kurkarte). Railers, from Berchtesgaden’s train station, bus 841 departs daily for Königssee (and the neighboring Jennerbahn) typically :15 min past every hour until late afternoon (10-min trip, upon arriving note pick-up times); small groups consider a taxi (about 11€ one way, tel. 08652/4041). Suggestion: Plan your rendezvous with St. Bartholomew to coincide with an appetite for the freshly caught smoked trout (geraucht Forelle) served at the shoreline Fischerei (from 11:00, mid-April thru Oct). The owner, Thomas Amort, locally “der Fischermeister,” upholds a family tradition of fishing on Königssee, a privilege granted exclusively to his ancestors centuries ago by Berchtesgaden’s prince-provosts. SOM fans, Königssee can be briefly seen during the aerial shots in the beginning of the film.
Bobsled & Luge, (www.weltcup-koenigssee.de). Right of the Königssee docks you’ll see a track at the base of the forested mountainside, within a 10-min walk of the boat departure area. Beginning way up the mountain, this 1,300-meter-long (nearly 1 mile) ice canal was constructed in 1968 with the hopes of Berchtesgaden becoming an Olympic venue. At the time it was the first artificially frozen track in the world. 
Locally known as the Kunsteisbahn, the Königssee ice canal combines the daring tempo of Formula 1 racing with the methodical proficiency of a championship round of golf at St Andrews. Its total obstacles include 16 curves and a drop of 10.35% with hair-raising track speeds reaching 130 kph, or 80 mph. Not surprisingly, the Kunsteisbahn today is the venue for international competitions as well as the training center for the German bobsled and luge teams. So if you ever see Germany win one of these icy events on TV, for example during the Winter Olympics, you now know where they train. In fact, Berchtesgaden is the national headquarters of the bobsled and luge (www.bsd-portal.de). More importantly, if you’re visiting in winter (Nov thru mid-March) you can experience the same blinding rush, the thrill of a lifetime, riding in a 4-man Olympic bobsled here on the Königssee ice canal like all the other champions before you. Check with the TI in advance for the updated schedule or contact the organizer direct (tel. 08652/976-069, www.rennbob-taxi.de, 90€ per person and ride, 2€ discount with overnight guest card, 4-man bobsled is piloted by a professional and price includes a remembrance gift in addition to a certificate of achievement as bobsled co-pilot). You won’t need to bring any special equipment other than a good pair of gloves and a large set of cojones! Note: Berchtesgaden isn’t the only alpine venue to bob, Innsbruck also has an Olympic run you can challenge.
Schloßplatz, GPS: N47 38.026 E13 00.178. Spread beneath the twin spires rising above town is Schloßplatz, or Palace Square, a spacious pedestrian plaza home to the blessed Stiftskirche, or Collegiate Church, where the Augustinian monks established Berchtesgaden more than 900 years ago. Adjoining the church is the former Augustinian monastery, dating from 1122. This significant salmon-shaded structure was later converted to the seat of Berchtesgaden’s prince-provosts and from 1818-1918 it was used as a summer residence by the Bavarian royal family, Wittelsbach. Thus, the fairy-tale king, Ludwig II, spent many a summer day here in his youth. Penciled on one of the palace doorframes, for example, a line measures the future king’s height at the age of six. Today, these palatial digs, locally Königliches Schloss, or Royal Palace, are still used by members of the Wittelsbach clan when in town (generally for two weeks mid-August at which time the palace will be closed to visitors). Because the palace is privately owned and occasionally occupied, interested visitors must join a 50-min guided tour (typically in German but free translation sheet available, mid-May thru mid-Oct, Sun thru Fri 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, rest of year Mon-Fri 11:00 & 14:00, adult 7€, student 3.50€, 1€ discount with overnight guest card, worthwhile combo ticket 11€ including palace tour and two-hour pass for the Watzmann Therme, www.haus-bayern.com, tel. 08652/947-980). Facing Schloßplatz is a memorial to Berchtesgaden’s war dead. When standing in the graveled square, face the mural above the arches. It reads (left) “The fallen sons of Berchtesgaden”; (right) “They gave their lives; their sacrifice will always be remembered.” Now walk up to the arches to view the names of the dead on the wall—they are under the watchful eye of the Eagle’s Nest (behind you) peering down from the mountaintop. On a more festive note, return here in December when the snow-white square is ornamented with the gingerbread-scented Christmas market. Mmm.
Watzmann Therme, (daily 10:00-22:00, adult 9.70€/2hr, stay longer and pay 1.50€/30 min or better 12.20€/4hr, 14€/day pass, family 35€/4hr or 45€/day pass, sauna areas 4€ extra or included with day pass, solarium from 3€, discount available with valid Bayern-Ticket and overnight guest card, towel hire 2.50€ and 15€ deposit; classic full-body massage 35€/40 min, other options available, best to call 48hr in advance to book, tel. 08652/946-450, www.watzmann-therme.de). It’s easy: just show up, pay admission, and get rejuvenated! Similar to the Caracalla spa in Baden-Baden, the Watzmann Therme spoils its clientele with a plethora of waterworks and remedial stations, such as massaging waterfalls and salt inhalation rooms, Finnish and herbal saunas, whirlpools and solariums, a surge channel and half-sized Olympic pool, therapeutic sodium bath and nutritious poolside restaurant, and an 80-meter-long (262 ft) waterslide called the Black Hole. Yikes! Outside, patrons relax on lounge chairs soaking up the sunshine and Alpine views while sauna-goers parade between cabins in their birthday suits. Note: All saunas, per usual in Germany, are totally nude. And Mondays 10:00-16:00 are reserved for women only in the saunas, unless it’s a holiday. To get there, the Watzmann Therme is located at Bergwerkstrasse 54, near the salt mines. Drivers, use the same directions to the salt mines above but instead (if you’re coming from the center of Berchtesgaden turn right at the second set of traffic lights and) park out front of the Watzmann Therme. Railers, use the same directions to the salt mines above but instead it’s a 25-min walk from the train station or by bus (no matter from Berchtesgaden or Salzburg) get off at Watzmann Therme, then short walk.
Hofbräuhaus, (daily 10:00-24:00, tel. 08652/96640). Established in 1645, this internationally recognized house of beer celebrates more than 360 years of brewing tradition in Berchtesgaden. Drown your thirst with a liter jug of beer (called a Maß, pronounced like ‘moss,’ 6.20€); gorge on tasty regional cuisine; and enjoy a memorable Heimatabend (traditional Bavarian show, inclusive of whip cracking, table dancing and spoon clanging) every *Friday evening at 20:00 mid-May thru mid-Oct, 5€/person. (*Check ahead as dates and times may have changed.) GPS: N47 38.060 E13 00.442. To get there, the HBH is situated at Bräuhausstrasse 15, just off the main road connecting Berchtesgaden with Salzburg, within a 10-min walk of the town center, or one stop on either bus 840 or 848 from the train station (get off at Schießstättbrücke, then short walk).
Grassl Enzianbrennerei, distillery, (Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00 but May-Oct till 18:00, Sat 9:00-12:00 but May-Oct 8:00-14:00, allow 30-45 min for a visit, www.grassl.com; CC: VC, MC). Over 100,000 visitors per year stop by this quintessentially Bavarian attraction for a free look into Germany’s oldest Enzian distillery, established in 1602. The distillers at Grassl use the root of the Enzian mountain flower as the essential ingredient to produce their signature liqueur and schnapps. And—get this (providing you’re not the driver)—you can sample up to 30 Grassl blends for free! No doubt you’ll appreciate at least one from the bunch, which can be purchased by the bottle; and many can even be bought in mini shot bottles (1€ each but get one free with overnight guest card) that make excellent souvenir-gifts for friends back home. One of Grassl’s more potent yet popular blends is the herbal liqueur Bergfeuer, or “mountain fire,” containing 57% alcohol by volume; perhaps explaining why most everyone in town is seemingly in a good mood. Or maybe it’s the potato schnapps (referred to as Bavarian vodka 38% abv), or the cherry liqueur (Kirschlikör 25% abv), or the unique tasting chocolate-chili liqueur (17% abv). If you like what you’ve read so far, pay even closer attention: Karsten Brust is the bartender and manager here and he told me to tell you—my valuable reader—to call him a few hours in advance on his direct work line (tel. 08652/953-617, he speaks English) and he will arrange for you a free 20-min English-speaking orientation of the distillery. Now that’s service. If you don’t call in advance, Karsten can probably still arrange the orientation (depending on how late in the day and how busy it is) but you may have to wait a while, in which case you can kill time by shopping, drinking, and walking through the traditional alpine cabin. GPS: N47 39.382 E13 02.486. To get there, Grassl is located at Salzburgstrasse 105, 4 km from Berchtesgaden and 18 km from Salzburg on route 305 running between the two settlements. Drivers, free parking out front. Railers, catch the hourly bus 840 from either Berchtesgaden or Salzburg’s train station and get off at Enzianbrennerei. Note: Time-crunched travelers can experience the same Enzian effect from Grassl’s outlet on Schloßplatz in the center of town, Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.
Berchtesgadener Hof: Most World War II buffs are familiar with the Berchtesgadener Hof from its portrayal in the television miniseries “Band of Brothers,” episode 10, “Points,” when the boys of Easy Company entered the hotel and began lifting Hitler souvenirs.
Originally called the Grand Hotel from its inauguration in 1898, these digs once pampered European nobility. When the Nazis acquired the hotel in the 1930s, they renovated it and changed the name to Berchtesgadener Hof. 
The property fast became the preferred digs of Hitler’s guests, including General Irwin Rommel (“Desert Fox”), British Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain, Heinrich Himmler, Josef Goebbels, and Eva Braun before she moved in with Hitler on Obersalzberg at his chalet-style mansion, the Berghof.
Following World War II, the hotel was acquisitioned by U.S forces and used as an R&R (AFRC) resort until 1995, when it was returned to the German authorities. After a decade of neglect, the building was razed (Nov 2006) to make way for a new exhibition center associated with the National-Park-Haus (see Hiking below) to be called Haus der Berge (due for completion in 2012). Note: The two pictures show the Berchtesgadener Hof in its derelict state in 2001 and again in 2007 after its removal; (only back wall remaining). I snapped the latter picture from where the front entrance used to be, i.e. right of the bicyclist.
Paula Hitler is unofficially buried in Berchtesgaden. Adolf’s little sister, Paula (b. Jan 21, 1896 — d. June 1, 1960), seven years younger than her infamous brother and not connected with his wicked politics, lived in Vienna for many years before moving to Berchtesgaden in the 1950s under the assumed name of Wolff. She never married or had children, keeping much to herself. Until the year 2007 Paula was officially buried in Berchtesgaden’s Bergfriedhof, or Mountain Cemetery (pictured right), but her caretaker must have died or somesuch because the *lease on her grave was allowed to expire and therefore she was buried over by the new occupants, Hermann and Cornelia Reif (pictured left). (*Germans essentially rent their plots, typically afforded by family or a dear friend. In Paula’s case, the lease on her grave was due every 12 years. In 2007, payment ceased thereby terminating the lease and effectively opening the site to new burial. My guess is that the Reif’s, who died in 2005 and 2006, were her caretakers.) 
GPS: N47 37.309 E12 59.734. To get there, the Bergfriedhof is located across the traffic circle and up the hill from Berchtesgaden’s train station. Enter the cemetery via the double wrought-iron gate, just after the chapel then go right and continue straight on the gravel path, keeping the hedgerow to your right. The former grave site of Paula, now belonging to the Reif’s, is in the first group of graves after the hedgerow (second row, fifth grave in). Note: Drivers and hikers, not far up the road from the Bergfriedhof is a German military cemetery where 937 soldiers rest from both world wars, (follow signs “Kriegsgräberstätte”).
Berchtesgaden’s oldest cemetery, locally Alter Friedhof, situated at the Franciscan church across from the Hotel-Restaurant Watzmann in the center of town, dates from the 17th century and maintains a breadth of memorial markers, well-tended plots and tall, dignified tombstones. Just inside the gate (closest to church), the first grave on the right is that of Anton Adner (pictured), b. 1705, d. 1822. At 117 years, Adner is recognized as Bavaria’s oldest man. They say Adner’s secret was walking, and his hobby was to knit warm garments and craft wooden toys for kids. You see, in those days, goods were taxed when crossing borders, unless they could be transported on your person. Thus Adner strapped a specially made wooden box to his back to carry his handiwork to distant markets to sell. 
During these journeys, Adner would knit socks and carve figurines as he went. Not surprisingly, the Bavarian king heard of Adner’s remarkable story and at the mature age of 113 he was honored as one of the 12 worthiest men in the kingdom. According to tradition, this warranted a trip to the palace in Munich for the annual “washing of the feet” by the king on Maundy Thursday, the Thursday before Easter, which is symbolic of Jesus washing the feet of his disciples. For the next four years, Adner was invited to Munich for a royal scrub until his death in 1822. Opposite Adner’s grave, memorial markers embedded in the wall remember Berchtesgaden’s heroic sons. Their names and living dates span two world wars, inscribed for all to see: where they fell in combat, what year, their age. Some have a poem; most feature a black-and-white photo of a proud soldier in uniform. Many families lost two young men, some lost three (pictured, Lochner boys). One was father and son, Josef Ponn senior and junior. Near the end of the wall stands a large, featureless tombstone with the lone inscription: Dietrich Eckart. This was Hitler’s mentor—you can blame this guy for bringing the aspiring dictator to Berchtesgaden and, consequently, its dark Nazi legacy.
Hiking
Berchtesgaden and its national park is one of God’s greatest creations. With that said, it’s not surprising this place of natural wonder embraces a marveling multitude of hiking trails waiting for you to discover. Below I’ve researched a short list of scenic hikes for you to mull, from easy to adventurous. But the best way to get a grip on the magnitude of possibilities, as well as gaining a better idea of the region and its geology, is to visit the…
National-Park-Haus, info center (daily 9:00-17:00, tel. 08652/64343, the info center and national park are free to enter, www.nationalpark-berchtesgaden.de). Come to this revealing facility to learn about the Berchtesgaden National Park, from enchanting hikes to mountain huts and from environmental research to mapping geologic time. Germany’s only national park in the Alps was established in 1978 and covers 210 sq km (81 sq mi), basically everything south of Berchtesgaden to the Austrian border, including the lakes Königssee and Hintersee. To get a better idea of the park’s location would be to imagine the lower right corner of Germany on a map: The entire bottom half of the fist punching into Austria is the park. Although many of the info center’s exhibits are in German, the National-Park-Haus still makes for an educational visit. At the info desk (left upon entering) is a series of English-language pamphlets that cleverly convert into scenic mini posters when flipped over. Right of the info desk are clean, free toilets! Novice hikers, get the updated schedule on the free “wander program” (led by a park ranger, summer and winter, no reservation necessary), and experienced hikers should pick up the brochure listing the Hütten (mountain huts) that populate the higher elevations. To get there, the National-Park-Haus info center is located at Franziskanerplatz 7, on the main road in the middle of town, next to the Franciscan church (and “Berchtesgaden’s oldest cemetery,” listed above), a 10-min trek from the train station. The Alpine views from the center’s front courtyard are stupendous!
Berchtesgaden to Königssee: This walk is easy and flat, taking 90 min. Start on the asphalt path beginning across the river from Berchtesgaden’s TI; (look to brown wooden sign pointing Königssee 5km; the second sign reads: Fußweg zum Königssee). The footpath mostly parallels the Königsseer Ache (stream) to Königssee lake. There are a number of food options at the lake but few en route to it. Consider riding the bus back to Berchtesgaden (check pick-up times upon arriving).
Königssee/Painter’s Corner & Waterfall: (For info on Königssee, click here). This hike ranks easy to adventurous, requiring some 15 min to reach the must-see Painter’s Corner, locally Malerwinkel (pictured), and about another 20 min to the waterfall. 
From the Königssee boat dock, mosey left; the road will turn to a trail climbing into the mixed alpine forest. Continue past Café Malerwinkel and the trail will soon drop into Painter’s Corner, where you’ll be rewarded with a glorious view to St. Bartholomew and the far end of shimmering Königssee. (There are a few benches here to plop down on and relish your picnic.) Note: The next section to the waterfall can be treacherous, thus it is only suggested for experienced hikers. From Painter’s Corner follow the path as it narrows down to the lake. Wander along the shoreline; peer into the crystal-clear water, sometimes while balancing on rocks and logs. Keep going, eventually you’ll find the multi-tiered waterfall (Wasserfall, pronounced like ‘vasser-fall’) cascading before the whole of the national park. (The route is not signposted thus you may have to ask a fellow hiker en route.) Beware of the steep climb up to the main pool. The views will astound you, even outshining Painter’s Corner. Funny story: When I was there a handful of German twenty-somethings arrived, stripped to their birthday suits, and soaked in the pool. Now that’s genuine nature.
Königssee/Ice Chapel (Eiskapelle). The so-called Ice Chapel is an intriguing yet hard-to-find, freezing-cold and hazardous cave that develops a dome of ice during winter then dramatically melts by late summer. Although the 90-min trek leading to it is scenic and rather unproblematic, the Ice Chapel itself can be dangerous to explore on account of warm-weather conditions altering its size and shape (season to season) causing the ground to be unstable. Thus the authorities recommend that it not be entered. The trail begins at St. Bartholomew by the National Park info point. From here the level path leads to the Chapel of St. Johann and Paul before climbing through the forest to a large avalanche snow field at the foot of the Watzmann’s east wall.
Almbach Gorge, locally Almbachklamm, (May-Oct daily 8:00-18:00, otherwise closed, adult 3€, youth 6-16yr 1.50€, .50¢ discount with overnight guest card, www.marktschellenberg.de). This marvelous trek is easy to intermediate, 90 min to 3 hours, depending on the route you choose. Located some 5 km from Berchtesgaden, the picturesque Almbach Gorge is home to Bavaria’s oldest marble mill (Kugelmühle, dating from 1683), the starting point of the hike. At length the path is about 3 km (2 mi), has 29 footbridges, and more than 300 steps with an elevation differential of 200 m (650 ft). Wander past roaring waterfalls and pristine pools along a gaping gorge swimming with Bachforelle (brook trout). Suggestion: At footbridge 17 (yes, the bridges are numbered) go right and follow the sign to Wallfahrtskirche Ettenberg; the incline steeply leads to the hamlet of Ettenberg and its quaint Baroque church (dating from 1725) parked on an idyllic plateau boasting postcard-pretty views of the valley and Alps (taking roughly 3 hours round trip from the marble mill). Plan your hike to go with a picnic or better yet (neighboring the Ettenberg church) try the traditional and delicious Gasthaus Mesnerwirt run by the Weinmann family for some 30 years (closed Monday). With extra time (1-2 hours), you have a couple of wonderful hiking opportunities to extend your journey from Ettenberg (ask a local to point the way). To get there, the Almbach Gorge is located 5 km from Berchtesgaden (left side of road) and 17 km from Salzburg on route 305 running between the two communities. Railers, catch the hourly bus 840 from either Berchtesgaden or Salzburg’s train station and get off at Almbachklamm, then 5-min walk (cross bridge and turn left—at the end of this narrow road is the Almbach). Drivers, from Berchtesgaden, take the main road (route 305) direction Salzburg and after a handful of km follow the Almbachklamm sign pointing left (cross bridge and turn left—at the end of this narrow road is the Almbach). If you’re coming from Salzburg, it’s just past Marktschellenberg on the right (then follow aforesaid directions over bridge).
Ice Cave, locally Eishöhle, (May-Sept daily 10:00-16:00 & Oct 10:00-15:00, otherwise closed, adult 6€, youth 6-16yr 3€, family 15€, .50¢ discount with overnight guest card, price includes 40-min guided tour, typically in German, departing at the top of every hour, www.eishoehle.net). This is a steep hike, requiring 3 hours to reach Germany’s largest ice cave, located at an elevation of 1,570 m (5,150 ft) two-thirds up Untersberg mountain. Dress warm (meaning keep an extra sweater in your backpack), the cave is literally freezing and the walls are made of solid ice several meters thick. Burrr. At the start of the hike you’ll ramble past a piece of medieval history, the Wehrturm (visible from the road). Dating from 1252, this former border tower housed guards responsible for checking the IDs of people traffic as well as levying taxes on the passage of goods. From this point on your job is to move your buttocks in an upwardly direction. Above the tree level you’ll reach the full-service mountain hut (Toni-Lenz-Hütte, open daily), affording food and drink and accommodations (12 beds, reservation required if you wish to stay the night, Austria tel. +43-[0]681/1027-0291). From the hut the ice cave is roughly 20 min farther. Plan your hike to go with a picnic or sample the goodies at the hut, or do both. To get there, the starting point begins at the 13th-century customs tower, 1 km inside the Bavarian border with Austria. Railers, catch the hourly bus 840 from either Berchtesgaden or Salzburg’s train station and get off at Eishöhle (notify driver in advance). Drivers, from Berchtesgaden, take the main road (route 305) direction Salzburg. A short distance beyond the village of Marktschellenberg park in the dirt lot on the right. If you’re coming from Salzburg, park in the dirt lot on the left 1 km after passing through the Bavarian border.
Events & Festivals 2011
May Day, May 1 (Sunday). This day is special throughout Bavaria because numerous communities (visit TI to find out which ones) will be raising their time-honored Maypole. May Day festivities include folk dancing, pole-climbing events, traditional costume, and customary beer drinking. Amen! Note that some communities postpone festivities a week or two. Thus, if you plan it right, you can follow the celebrations all month.
Pentecost (Whit) Monday, June 13. In Berchtesgaden, the salt miners have adopted this holiday as their own. (Consequently, the salt mines will be closed.) Led by members of the Collegiate Church, the salt miners wear traditional costume and parade through the decorated streets of town to Schloßplatz where a service will be held. Afterward, the procession continues.
Almabtrieb—(typically end of Sept, beginning of Oct)—is the Bavarian term for when the cows are led from their summer pastures to their winter stalls, which predictably transpires in the latter half of September. Milkmaids and cow herders adorn their livelihood with flamboyant headdresses and parade them along village streets to their homes. During this procession the milkmaids call out: “In God’s name move on, my cow, in health and joy—St. Anthony will herd you.” Truly a memorable spectacle to witness. It’s especially interesting to see the colorful cows being loaded onto the Königsseer boats to be shipped across the lake to their distant homes. Don’t forget your camera. Inquire at the TI for exact locations and dates, which vary depending on weather.
Christmas Market, traditionally open on the market square during Advent weekends (13:00-19:00), including Friday, and all the weekdays leading up to Dec 24.
Krampus, (typically 5th & 6th of December, early evening). Exclusive to the alpine region is Krampus, a tradition dating from medieval times that kick-starts the Christmas season. The Krampus are essentially Santa’s evil servants; more precisely a group of wicked-looking creatures (Kramperl, Buttnmandl and Gangerl) who accompany St. Nicholas through town before Christmas to frighten misbehaved children into being good. But, today, what really happens is the creatures run wild through Berchtesgaden’s pedestrian zone whipping and terrorizing the populace at large. Although, legend does maintain that a generous whipping ensures good health and prosperity for the coming year, in addition to expelling all the demons from your body. Yikes! (To read how German children in the remainder of the country observe St. Nicholas’ feast day, click here.)
The whips the Krampus carry are nothing to laugh at; each one is handmade from a bundle of slender and flexible branches firmly woven, tied and taped together for maximum effect. Ouch! Each creature will arm itself with three to four whips in case one comes apart (i.e. unravels), or even more troubling, one gets snatched by a cunning member of the public. The Krampus creatures are: Kramperl; boys wearing self-made fur costumes with handcrafted masks and modest bells attached to their belts. Buttnmandl; men wearing hand-carved masks, 3-6 large cowbells tied to their backs, and straw outfits that take an hour to don. Gangerl (pictured); this is the devil and the leader of the pack. He wears horns, a fur jacket, and a terrifying mask. Be afraid boys and girls. Be very afraid! (This alarming creature is likely a key reason why crime is so low in these parts.) Suggestion: Because the Krampus creatures tend to administer a painful whipping, wear ski pants (if you have ’em) or two pairs of jeans to help absorb the sting (in case you were to get stung). For a memorable experience, and a great souvenir, snatch one of the creatures’ handmade whips. I dare ya!
Click here for Accommodations Berchtesgaden.
Click here for the Eagle's Nest, do-it-yourself World War II bunker, and Obersalzberg 1933-45.
Click here for Introduction Berchtesgaden.
(This page was last updated March 2011.)
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