Introduction: Dresden, Germany
DRESDEN
Population: 520,000. Country-Area code: +49-(0)351. Elevation: 113 m (370 ft).
Sister cities: Columbus, Ohio and Coventry, England. License plate: DD.
Situated in the eastern German state of Saxony, Dresden is actually closer to the capital of the Czech Republic, Prague, than it is to the capital of Germany, Berlin. More unusual is the fact that Poland was once ruled by the Saxons, and their Prussian neighbors to the west (like those folks living in Potsdam and Berlin) were considered a deadly foe. Before all that, however, Dresden began as a tiny enclave on the Elbe River established by missionaries. First documented in 1206, Dresden was the chosen location for the margraves of Meissen to build a castle to enforce their authority on the river traffic. 
The year 1485 proved instrumental for the future Saxon capital, when the margraves bequeathed their assets to the royal house of Wettin, who ultimately reigned over the Saxon territories until 1918. The most significant Wettin ruler was Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and king of Poland (1694/97-1733). Under his direction the Zwinger and Frauenkirche were built; he established the world-famous Meissen porcelain works as well as the collections of the Old Masters’ Galley and the treasures of the Green Vaults. It was during his rule that Dresden became a European cultural center and a Baroque masterpiece, commonly referred to as the “Florence on the Elbe.” Economic and social development was so robust that the population swelled to 65,000 by the early 18th century. However, during the opening salvos of the Seven Years’ War in 1756, Prussian troops sacked the city. It took nearly half a century before the residents returned. This coincided with Napoleon’s armies marching on Dresden and allying Saxony with France in 1806. Napoleon achieved his last significant victory here—at the Battle of Dresden in 1813—when 100,000 French soldiers defeated 150,000 coalition troops (Prussian, Austrian and Russian).
In the decades that followed, Dresden progressed into the industrial age with the completion of Germany’s first long-distance railway connecting it with Leipzig. People gravitated to Dresden in droves encouraging a new phenomenon, the urban sprawl: city fortifications were dismantled, factories were built, a port was constructed along with bridges, transportation lines, a city hall, a zoo, a romantic riverside terrace, and an elegant opera house (the Semperoper). By the turn of the 20th century, Dresden was the fourth largest city in the newly unified German nation with half a million residents. Three of these cemented their names in the history books by revolutionizing personal hygiene and the taste of a little brown roasted bean. In 1893, Karl August Lingner formulated an antiseptic dental oil he called “Odol,” the world’s first mouthwash. Following Lingner’s push for better oral hygiene, pharmacist Ottomar Heinsius developed a white paste in 1907 that he put into a tube and called “Chlorodent.” We use this substance everyday and generically know it as toothpaste. The following year, 1908, Dresden was the scene of another monumental discovery. Melitta Bentz, a 35-year-old housewife, tired of drinking bitter coffee flush with grounds, punctured several small holes into the bottom of a brass pot and subsequently covered them with a piece of her son’s notebook paper. This resulted in a smoother taste and the first-ever coffee filter.
The November revolution in 1918 forced the abdication of the last Wettin monarch and the Free State of Saxony was formed. The assumption of power by the Nazis in 1933 dissolved any progress the city had achieved post-World War I by banning political freedom, infiltrating the church, supporting the deportation of Jews, and replacing democracy with a strictly controlled centralized state. This new form of government damned the German people to an apocalyptic finale, nearly erasing Dresden off the map. Three months before the end of World War II, a series of Allied air raids over Dresden (February 13-14, 1945)—comprising more than 1,000 planes—unleashed a firestorm of incendiary bombs that landed on the metropolis in a feverish rage, sucking the oxygen from the air and sending mountains of debris racing toward the sky. Just like New Yorkers did after September 11, 2001, Dresdners wrote messages (but with chalk stone on the scorched walls of buildings) looking for loved ones; survivors etched their names where possible to indicate they were alive. After the smoke cleared, roughly 80 percent of central Dresden lay in ruin and 25,000 bodies were recovered from the rubble.
In memoriam to those who died, church vigils—along with special performances at the Semperoper and Frauenkirche—are held annually on February 13-14. To visit the mass grave site, see Free Dresden, No. 9.
In October 1949, some four years after the war, the German Democratic Republic (GDR), or East Germany, was established under the auspices of hard-line Soviet authority. The Allies may have won the war, but the victory celebrations were short-lived for the citizens of Eastern Europe. One dictatorial regime was simply replaced by another: from Hitler to Stalin, Fascism to Communism. Life for Dresdners was surreal; they lived like puppets, their strings manipulated by party-loyal puppeteers. This new style of collective government eliminated private enterprise and made basic goods available to the workers, or general public, as needed in what was known as the Planwirtschaft, or “planned economy.” Owning a luxury car was not possible; listening to radio broadcasts from the West was outlawed; and a Dresdner had a better chance of seeing a dodo bird on the city streets than a briefcase-toting businessman wearing an Armani suit. Colorful neon billboards advertising brands like Mercedes or Coca-Cola did not exist; instead gray monotone signs offered Brot, Milch, Butter. The only things guaranteed to have color were the flowers in summer and trees in autumn and, of course, propaganda rallies. Such was life in Socialist Dresden.
In the early 1950s, reconstruction began with residential and governmental structures as well as on select monuments. Work was slow-going and the Zwinger was the first monumental structure to be completed (1964). The Semperoper and Albertinum were next to celebrate their grand reopenings, some four decades after the conclusion of World War II. Since the collapse of the GDR and the reunification of Germany in 1990, the rebuilding of Dresden has moved at a blinding pace, with emphasis on the famed Frauenkirche. The Saxon capital is once again a luminous beacon inspiring tourism. Pouring in from across Europe, vacationers are heeding the call. A testament to the fact is Dresden’s record-breaking 2.9 million overnight stays in 2005, then blasting through the 3.5 million mark in 2010 setting another record. (Note that 94-95% of these tourists come from Europe. Unlike you, most English speakers have yet to discover this captivating corner of Germany.)
Baroque monuments of yesteryear twinkle under the midday sun while affording a unique contrast of gilded trim and thick soot. Tourists anxiously line up along the banks of the Elbe to catch a ride on a 19th-century paddle steamer belonging to the world’s largest and oldest fleet. Night owls converge in New Town (Neustadt), which has more than 130 pubs, clubs and restaurants to accommodate, entertain and indulge. High-tech corporations, too, are investing in the Saxon capital. Infineon Technologies and Advanced Micro Devices (AMD) have since moved in and established multibillion dollar computer-chip manufacturing facilities that have created thousands of new jobs in a region universally becoming known as Silicon Saxony. (Note that Silicon Saxony today is a registered industry association comprising some 35,000 employees with 280 member companies in the microelectronics sector ringing up an annual yield of around 4€ billion, www.silicon-saxony.de.)
During Dresden’s 800-year existence, the city has more than proven its right to legendary status—from Wettin royalty to Prussian aristocracy, from Baroque mode to the Napoleonic code, from Nazi totalitarianism to Red communism—its people are survivors who have learned to celebrate each day as it comes. Dresden defines resilience, and once again it is the quintessential city of grandeur. Unsurprisingly, the Saxon capital deserves a top-priority listing on your itinerary to Germany. But make sure your visit to Dresden includes a Saturday, allowing you the opportunity to rummage through one of the nation’s best flea markets.
Note: The updated 2011 guide is no longer available for download (The updated 2012 guide will soon be released in February)
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The following English-dubbed video is a production by Dresden Marketing GmbH. It gives a quick look at Dresden through the eyes of a young brunette.
(See Comments at the bottom of the page and feel free to add one of your own!)
Suggested Itinerary:
Dresden, including its environs, is worth at least a two-day stay. Mood and weather permitting, divide your time like so:
Day 1: Start early; at Theaterplatz set off on my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town. Afterwards, tackle the museums. Begin at the Hausmannsturm in the Dresdner Schloss where you can get a lofty overview of the Old Town. Purchase the city’s 2-day welcome card (see Dresden Card) to facilitate your sightseeing at a discount.
Day 2: Dresden Card holders visit what museums you missed on Day 1. Or consider renting a bike and peddling around town touring sights of interest and along the Elbe River, e.g. 6 km east to the Blue Wonder—it’s healthy, fun, picturesque and productive! Pack a picnic.
Day 3: With extra time explore my self-guided tour of the Saxon Switzerland National Park. Or, porcelain fans, take the S-Bahn to Meissen for the day.
Day 4: Extend your stay to realize both opportunities listed for Day 3.
Chapter Orientation: Free Dresden; city map (see below); DIY orientation tour of the Old Town; Museums; More Sights Old Town, New Town and Even More Sights; Best Views; Shopping; Entertainment & Eats; Headline Concerts; Events & Festivals; Good Sleeps; Excursions, including a self-guided tour into the Saxon Switzerland National Park and Fortress Königstein; Meissen.
Don't miss it!: (Note: On my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town I walk you past the first six listings.) A stroll through the Zwinger and along its upper-level promenade; Old Masters’ Gallery; Procession of Nobles; Dresden’s romantic river esplanade, the Brühlsche Terrasse; world’s oldest paddle-steamer fleet; Frauenkirche; Dresden Card; Pfund’s Molkerei; beer drinkers, taste-test the brew at Wenzel Prager Bierstuben; Saxon Switzerland National Park, suggested day trip.
Tourist Information, (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, one hour less Jan-March, www.dresden-tourist.de, tel. 0351/50-160-160). Dresden has a TI in the Hauptbahnhof (daily 9:00-18:00) but its main tourist information office is located within the Kulturpalast in the center of the Old Town at Schloßstrasse 2 (which I point out to you on my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town). 
Besides welcoming staff, the TI has a room-finding service (3€/person), a ticket agency, postage stamps for sale, and an uncomplicated one-page city map for free that is better value considering its useful network of bus and tram lines than the foldout city guide for 80¢ with pictures and historical descriptions but without bus-tram network. (If you do buy the latter map compliment it with the free map.) Note: To better help you navigate around the local buses and trams, ask for the free “Dresdner Linien” brochure that opens into a comprehensive map of the public transportation network. Tours: Little time, sore feet? The hop-on and -off double-decker Stadtrundfahrt sightseeing bus you’ll regularly see motoring through town passes 22 points across Dresden and is decent value for English-speaking travelers (20€ ticket valid all day, or two days 22€, discount for youths, students, seniors, and Dresden Card holders). I say “decent” because the English commentary running through the supplied headset is often drowned out by the German narration blasting through the overhead speakers. Moreover, the ride is tremendously bumpy owing to Dresden’s asymmetrical cobbled roads. That said, the Stadtrundfahrt sightseeing buses do provide a good overview of greater Dresden for travelers with little time; buses are convenient and easy to use, keeping to a regular schedule (departing every 15-30 min) throughout the year, daily from 9:30 till last bus at 17:00 (main pick-up point on river side of Theaterplatz; allow 90 min to complete 22-stop circuit; other tour types available; for more info either ask TI for brochure, or one of the sales persons around town standing by the company logoed cart, or go to www.stadtrundfahrt.com).
Emergency Tel. Numbers, valid Germany-wide; Police (Polizei) = 110; Fire dept. (Feuerwehr) or general emergency = 112; Ambulance = 19222.
Main Train Station: (www.bahn.de) Dresden has two main rail stations: the Hauptbahnhof (Hbf) serves the Old Town, and Dresden-Neustadt serves the New Town across the Elbe River. Most trains stop at both (6 min between the two); if your accommodations are in the New Town, get off at Dresden-Neustadt. Also connecting both stations are the slower, but more scenic, trams 3 and 11, taking about 12 min.
The Hauptbahnhof, a stunning structure upon its completion in 1898, was pasted by Allied bombs during World War II and neglected post-conflict by the then East German government. To this tragic story, however, is a silver lining. In 1997, star architect Sir Norman Foster (designer of such celebrated structures as London’s City Hall, Berlin’s Reichstag, and the Millau Viaduct in France) won the reconstruction contract “…to restore the integrity of the original design with modern means.” After some nine years of hard work and meticulous planning, the construction site Hauptbahnhof is no more (as of Dec 2006) and Railers will no doubt relish their stopover here; another boffo landmark in a world-class city flush with A-list attractions. Look around you. Impressed? Heck, even the doors open automatically. Real handy if you’re overloaded. Lockers (3-4€/24hr) are near tracks 14 and 17. For train info and itinerary printouts see the DB Service Point opposite track 13. You’ll find a Rewe supermarket (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00) in the City Center Passage behind the station (across the street from track 1, exit Ausgang 4 or 5). Note that cheap eats abound here. A pharmacy (Apotheke, Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-20:00) can be found outside the station (exit “Ausgang 3” and it’s on the other side of the fountain). To surf the Internet at or near the station, see Internet below. Bike rental, see Bike Rentalbelow. By foot into the Old Town is an easy 10-min walk. Exit station Ausgang City (if you exit “Ausgang 2” continue straight, if you exit “Ausgang 3” go right then left) and follow the flow of people over the tram tracks into Prager Strasse, the pedestrian-only shopping street. Continue straight to the Old Town. By tram into the Old Town exit east side of station “Ausgang 1” and catch tram 8 (direction Hellerau) to Theaterplatz. By tram to New Town, or Neustadt, exit station “Ausgang 1” and catch tram 3 (direction Wilder Mann) or tram 8 (direction Hellerau), or exit station “Ausgang 3” and catch tram 7 (direction Weixdorf). By tram to Dresden-Neustadt (Bahnhof) train station exit east side of station “Ausgang 1” and catch tram 3 (direction Wilder Mann), or tram 11 (direction Bühlau) from Hbf Nord (located immediately off Prager Strasse, right around corner from the Jack Wolfskin store). If it’s a taxi you’re after, exit east side of station “Ausgang 1” to find the rank. By train from Dresden to—(note that the following train times are for reference only and may have changed)—Berlin 2.25hr trip (direct every two hours, first trains 5:50 and 6:50, last 19:00); Frankfurt airport/city 5hr trip (direct every two hours, first train 5:50, last 15:50); Nürnberg 4.5hr trip (hrly, direct, first train 5:50, last 19:00); Prague 2.5hr trip (every two hours, direct, first train 7:05, last 21:05).
Dresden-Neustadt, locally Bahnhof Neustadt, is a practical station with all the necessary amenities, even a Burger King. Haw! Get train info and itinerary printouts and rental bikes at the DB Service Point (daily 6:00-22:30) across from the “point” mini mart in the main hall. Lockers (Gepäck, 3€-4€/24hr) are located across the main hall from Burger King. Bike rental, see Bike Rentalbelow. Supermarket (Lidl, Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-20:00) is next door; either walk thru Burger King or exit station out front and go right. While at Bahnhof Neustadt eyeball the north wall (left before exiting) and marvel the splendor of “Saxony’s most beautiful palaces, castles and gardens” emblazoned on some 800 tiles made from Meissen Porcelain (the company’s trademark cobalt-blue crossed swords can be seen in the lower right part of the mural).
Note: From either station the S-Bahn departs every half hour for Meissen and Schöna (in the national park). A one-way ticket (Einzelfahrt) will cost 5.60€. But your best buy is the total network (Verbundraum) day ticket (Tageskarte) valid for all your public transportation till 04:00: adult 12€, family 15€ (Familientageskarte). Small groups purchase the Kleingruppenkarte 23€, valid for up to 5 people till 04:00. Holders of a Eurail consecutive-day or dated Flexi/Select pass ride free on the S-Bahn.
Bus/Tram, (www.dvb.de). For the most part Dresden is walkable. However, if you find yourself out of the historic core you may have to use local transportation, which, by the way, is painted black and yellow, the city’s medieval colors. 
To help you manage the bus and tram system, either use the TI’s basic free city map or pick up the “Dresdner Linien” brochure that opens into a comprehensive network map free from the TI or one of the DVB (Dresden transportation authority) kiosks located outside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz. The one-way ticket (Einzelfahrt) is valid for one hour and costs 2€ (youth 6-14yr 1.40€); day ticket (Tageskarte) is valid till 04:00 and costs 5€ (youth 6-14yr and seniors 60+ 1.40€); family 7€ (Familientageskarte, 2 + 4 6-14yr); small groups purchase the Kleingruppenkarte 23€, valid for up to 5 people till 04:00 (group ticket is also good for Meissen as well as the national park region to the Czech border). Ticket automats (Fahrausweise) are explained in English and can often be found onboard trams and at major stops. Note: Stamp ticket in box onboard vehicle to validate or run the risk of an on-the-spot fine. To signal the driver to stop the bus/tram at your destination, press button on handrail or by exit door.
Dresden bus/tram map (click to open printable pdf file)
Drivers/Parking: For street parking downtown pay at nearby automat and leave ticket on dashboard of your car (in general, daily 8:00-20:00) Mon-Sat 50¢/20 min, Sun 50¢/60 min, or day rate (Tagestarif) 6€. Automats do not give change. Parking garages (typically 1.50€/hr, 15€/day) are abundantly located throughout the city; look for blue-and-white “P” signs. But your best parking bet is near the main train station on Reitbahnstrasse, GPS: N51 02.589 E13 44.002. Here you can park in either outdoor lot (day rate, Tagestarif, 6€/24hr) or pull into the 1,000-space multilevel garage (1€/hr, 12€/day) belonging to the new Centrum-Galerie shopping center. To reach Reitbahnstrasse follow signs Hauptbahnhof/City then parking. After ditching the car, public transportation is nearby or a walk into the Old Town is within 10 min.
Share Ride, locally Mitfahrgelegenheit, is a concept matching passengers with drivers, and vice versa, creating a pocket-friendly carpool to the desired destination. If you’re not traveling with a railpass, Mitfahrgelegenheit is the cheapest and most social option of getting from one city to another. The following, for example, is an approximate cost per passenger from Dresden to: Prague 10€, Berlin 10€, Munich or Frankfurt 25€. The catch is you need to have a working knowledge of German to operate the website (www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de) to contact the driver directly.
Bike Rental: To cover more ground, bikes can be rented for 8€/day at either train station. Hours, details and bikes are the same: daily 6:15-21:30, must bring passport! Most every bike is equipped with a handy basket to carry your daypack and picnic goodies. At the main train station, or Hauptbahnhof (Hbf), stop in at the office by the lockers near track 17. At Dresden-Neustadt station bikes are rented from the DB Service Point, located across from the “point” mini mart in the main hall. Note: For more bike-rental possibilities, ask TI.
Suggested bike routes: Within the city limits are more than 250 km of bike paths to explore. But the most scenic and enjoyable paths extend along the Elbe River from Dresden downstream via the Saxon Wine Road to the porcelain town of Meissen and upstream through the national park to the Czech border. Along this route beer gardens, wine taverns and lazy cafés offer passersby a good excuse to take a break. The following are three popular routes: Ride along the Elbe River to the Blue Wonder (6 km, easy peddlin’). From the Old Town cycle upstream along the picturesque south bank of the Elbe River. For more on the Blue Wonder, click here. Ride along the Saxon Wine Road to Meissen (25 km, start early and take train back): From Neustadt head downstream on north side of river; ask a local to point the way to get you started. For more on the Saxon Wine Road, click here. Route into the Sächsische Schweiz National Park (37 km to Königstein, or 51 km to Schöna at Czech border. Start early and take train back): From the Old Town cycle upstream along the south bank of the Elbe to Königstein. I’d call it quits here and tour the fortress before heading back to Dresden, but if you’re keen to peddle on then take the ferry (Fähre) over to the north bank and cross back again at Bad Schandau via the bridge; route continues direction Schöna and the Czech border. For more on the national park, click here.
Boat Rides, (April-Oct, www.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt.de, tel. 0351/866-090). Paddle steamers first began ushering passengers along the Saxon stretch of the Elbe River in 1836, so it’s not surprising that Saxony’s state capital, Dresden, is home to the largest and oldest paddle steamer fleet in the world, welcoming some 700,000 passengers aboard its historic vessels each boating season (April-Oct). 
Trips on offer include the 90-minute city tour (called Stadtrundfahrt), Dixieland and Summer Night cruises, as well as excursions to the porcelain town of Meissen and into the Saxon Switzerland National Park. (Picture of steamboat "Pirna” pulling away from its Old Town moorings.)
Germany’s waterborne history, operated by Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt, is comprised of nine historic paddle steamers named after regional communities. So you know a little bit about the vessel you’re eyeballing (or better yet aboard), they are: Stadt Wehlen (length 59 m, capacity 300 passengers, 284 seats, operates mainly the City Tour) was built in 1879 and is the oldest steamer in the fleet. Diesbar (length 53 m, capacity 175 passengers, 160 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon wine route, i.e. to/fro Meissen, as well as under charter) was built in 1884 and is powered by the world’s oldest active steam engine (since 1841). Meissen (length 65 m, capacity 350 passengers, 270 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon Switzerland route) was built in 1885. During World War II, the Meissen was camouflaged and used to evacuate refugees from Hamburg. Pillnitz (length 65 m, capacity 350 passengers, 254 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon Switzerland route) was built in 1886. Krippen (length 56 m, capacity 221 passengers, 221 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon wine route, i.e. to/fro Meissen, as well as under charter) was built in 1892. Kurort Rathen (length 57 m, capacity 300 passengers, 267 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon Switzerland route) was built in 1896. Pirna (length 56 m, capacity 300 passengers, 265 seats, operates mainly on the Saxon Switzerland route through to Bohemia, Czech Rep) was built in 1898. Dresden (length 68 m, capacity 610 passengers, 400 seats, operates mainly on the Palace Tour and Dixieland cruises) was built in 1926. Leipzig (length 70 m, capacity 610 passengers, 439 seats, operates mainly on the Palace Tour and Dixieland cruises) was built in 1929 and is the youngest paddle steamer in the fleet.
PRICE, day ticket (Tageskarte) adult 24€, family 35€, valid for all regular steamer routes; combo-ticket adult 33€, family 50€, valid for all regular steamer routes and public transportation for the day, including S-Bahn (ticket must be bought thru boat company). City tour (Stadtrundfahrt, 90 min) 12.50€. One-way ticket from Dresden to Meissen (downstream 2hr) 12€. One-way ticket from Königstein to Dresden (downstream 3hr) 16€. Dixieland Cruise (May-Oct Sat 19:30-22:30, 20€) with live music. Summer Night Cruise (June-Oct Sat 20:00-23:30, 39€) including drinks, dance, and music. Note: Steamers run April-Oct. Purchase tickets at the boat company’s office below west end of Brühlsche Terrasse. Youth 6-14yr receive 50% discount; children ride free on their birthday. Dresden Card holders ask for discount. Bikes are transported free of charge when space is available.
Dresden Card: I recommend you purchase the Dresden Card to subsidize your Saxon stay—but note there are three card-types and I only recommend one (the 2-day city card). The 1-Day Dresden-City Card (adult 9.50€, family 11.50€) is valid for one day, unlimited use of public transportation within Dresden proper as well as discounts on select attractions/tours. The recommended 2-Day Dresden-City Card (adult 24€, family 41€) is valid for two days and incorporates the 1-day city card benefits (i.e. unlimited use of public transportation within Dresden as well as discounts on select attractions/tours) in addition to free one-time admission into all the museums listed in the Museums section (except “Historic” Green Vault). The third and last option is the 5-Day Dresden-Region Card (adult 75€, family 95€), which is valid for 120 hours and incorporates all the 2-day city card benefits as well as discounts on select regional attractions and free transportation within the Oberelbe region that embraces Meissen and the Saxon Switzerland National Park. Note that the 2-day and 5-day cards are valid for entry into the “New” Green Vault but not the “Historic” Green Vault. Purchase cards at the TI, participating museums, and many hotels. Validate card yourself by writing in date and time of first use. Opinion: The 2-Day Dresden-City Card is worthwhile and recommended if you’re keen on visiting a number of museums in the Zwinger, Dresdner Schloss and/or Albertinum over the 48-hour period. The other two cards (1-day and 5-day), however, I’m not thrilled about, especially the multi-day regional card. Scan brochure to see whether your movements will compensate the price of the card.
Internet: There are relatively few Net café’s in Dresden, so make the most of the one you find. At the main train station across from “Ausgang 1” in the “point” mini mart (2€/hr, daily 6:00-24:00) are a handful of Sidewalk Express computers. Out front of the main train station, downstairs in the Wiener Platz Passage, is an Internet call shop (2€/hr, has Skype—Web cam, Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat/Sun 10:00-21:00). A bit farther afield from the main train station I found a Net café that has Skype (2€/hr, Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat/Sun 10:00-21:00) in an unlikely location on the ground floor of a renovated socialist-style housing block. To get there (Reitbahnstrasse 35, GPS: N51 02.550 E13 44.025), exit train station into Prager Strasse. The café is at the bottom of the 17-story tenement with copper-green balconies ahead on the left. On the other side of the construction zone go left at the “dm” shop, then straight to the café (parked in right corner of tenement). If you’re in Neustadt, a good place to surf is Böhmische Strasse 3 (2€/hr, has Skype—Web cam, daily 10:00-24:00).
Post Office: You’ll find a P.O. (Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00) at the Altmarkt Galerie shopping mall, as well as one at Königsbrücker Strasse 21, Neustadt (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-13:00), has 24hr stamp machine (Briefmarken) outside, button for English.
Grocery Stores: In Neustadt next door to the train station is a “Lidl” (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-20:00). Or, a few blocks away, there’s a smaller “Netto” (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00) at the intersection of Louisenstrasse and Königsbrücker Strasse (in front of Louisenstrasse tram stop and opposite P.O.). In the Old Town go to the Altmarkt Galerie shopping mall (adjacent to Altmarkt); on one end of the lower level is the discount grocery chain “Aldi” (where few brand names exist and 300-gram bags of Haribo gummi bears sell for .89¢) and at the other end is the abundantly stocked “Rewe” supermarket (where a 200-gram bag of Haribo gummi bears, or 33% less than Aldi, retails for the same price: .89¢). Both stores keep the same hours as the mall, Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00. You’ll find another “Rewe” (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00) in the City Center Passage behind the main train station (across the street from track 1, exit Ausgang 4 or 5. Note that cheap eats abound here).
Laundry: There are two self-service laundromats in New Town (Neustadt). The one at Louisenstrasse 6 is called “Crazy” (4.50€/load, Mon-Sat 6:30-23:00) and the other coin laundry is located at Königsbrücker Strasse 2 (4.50€/load, Mon-Sat 6:00-23:00).
Cinema: 
Made of glass and steel and concrete, Dresden’s ultra-modern multilevel cinema complex containing eight theaters and seating more than 2,600 moviegoers would have looked like a Clintonian crystal palace to the locals upon its completion in 1998 against a backdrop of socialist-style tenements. That said, perhaps even more interesting here is the fact that you may be able to catch an English-speaking flick, depending on latest releases. (I say “may” because recently fewer and fewer English-speaking films are being shown here.) Stop by anyway to check out the movie program, the innovative architecture, or to get your fix of buttery popcorn (about 3.70€/bag). The cinema complex (called UFA-Palast, www.ufa-dresden.de, tel. reservations 0351/482-5825) is a cinch to find because it’s located off Prager Strasse at the Walpurgisstrasse tram stop (trams 3, 7, 8, 9 and 11), or it’s less than a 5-min walk from the main train station; (on Prager Strasse go right once you reach the third ibis hotel, or when coming from the Old Town go left at the first ibis hotel). Note: Movie discount Mon-Fri with Dresden Card. The next-door spherical building is the new Cinemagnum Rundkino featuring films in 3D.
Holidays in Dresden, 2011
1. January, Saturday – Neujahr (New Year)
22. April – Karfreitag (Good Friday)
25. April – Ostermontag (Easter Monday)
1. May, Sunday – Tag der Arbeit (Labor Day)
2. June, Thursday – Christi Himmelfahrt (Ascension Day)
13. June – Pfingstmontag (Whit Monday)
3. October, Monday – Tag der Deutschen Einheit: Day of German (East-West) Unity
31. October, Monday – Day of Reformation
16. November, Wednesday – Buß- und Bettag (Day of Repentance & Prayer)
25. December, Sunday – Weihnachten (Christmas)
26. December, Monday – St. Stephen’s Day (Christmas Day No. 2)
What to do on a Sunday or holiday: Stores will be closed; most eateries will be open along with the touristy kitsch shops/stands. For groceries, Lidl will be open (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-20:00) at the Neustadt train station. Sunday presents a good opportunity to explore Dresden’s most important museums. Contrary to a museum crawl, consider visiting Meissen or taking a nature trip into the Saxon Switzerland National Park, or rent a bike and cycle through Dresden’s hushed city streets as well as along the idyllic banks of the Elbe River.
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(This page was last updated June 2011)
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