Museums: Dresden, Germany
Museums
Everything listed in this section (except the Historic Green Vault) is free with the *2-Day Dresden Card, recommended for travelers staying two or more days. *Note: With the Dresden Card, skip the cashier at the Old Masters’ Gallery as well as at all the museums in the Dresdner Schloss (with the exception of the Historic Green Vault) and simply show your card to staff at the door of each individual collection.
Handily, Dresden’s most important museums are run by the state of Saxony and housed in three prominent quarters (www.skd-dresden.de): the Zwinger, Dresdner Schloss, and Albertinum. The Old Masters’ Gallery, New Masters’ Gallery, Green Vaults, Hausmannsturm, and Porcelain Collection are must-visits, especially for holders of the 2-Day Dresden Card.
If you are not holding the abovementioned Dresden Card, each museum quarter charges one price for admission into all its collections for the day. For example, entry into the Zwinger museums is 10€ for the day pass, the same 10€ charge is set for the Dresdner Schloss (with the exception of the Historic Green Vault), and 8€ admission into the Albertinum. Tickets are available from any museum in the Zwinger but only from the central cashier in the Dresdner Schloss and Albertinum. Note that youths (16yr or younger) are free to enter the state-run museums.
Lastly, Zwinger and Albertinum museums are closed Monday; Dresdner Schloss museums are closed Tuesday. Bring a 1€ coin for the locker you’re required to use to store your daypack/personal items (coin is returned upon reopening locker). Or for around .50¢ you can check your things at the cloakroom, locally Garderobe.
Note: The updated 2011 guide is no longer available for download (The updated 2012 guide will soon be released in February)
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Zwinger: With more than 1 million visitors pouring through its premises each year, the Zwinger is Dresden’s most visited attraction. Constructed between 1710 and 1728, the Zwinger was originally designed to host concerts and festivals for Saxony’s crowned heads. 
Over time the Baroque complex took a different course and developed into one of Europe’s finest museum quarters. The name Zwinger dates back several hundred years, meaning an area between the outer and inner zones of the city’s former fortified walls, precisely where the museum quarter resides. Alas, the complex was severely damaged during the air raids of 1945—the locals feared the Zwinger would forever remain a ruin. Fear gave way to perseverance and a dogged determination to safeguard Dresden’s future. In due time, the museum quarter was meticulously restored. Since World War II, the rising waters of the Elbe River have replaced aerial bombardment as the city’s number one enemy. During the destructive floods of August 2002, the Elbe reached a record height of 9.40 m (31 ft) and the Zwinger narrowly avoided a third-millennium washout. On a more harmonious note, don’t miss the mesmerizing melody of the Glockenspielpavillon, chiming a classical tune thrice daily: 10:15, 14:15, 18:15—look to the pavilion featuring a clock, including 40 bells made from Meissen Porcelain. Tickets: Dresden Card holders and youths 16yr or younger are allowed free entry into all museums in the Zwinger quarter, otherwise the day pass is adult 10€, student 7.50€. To get there, take tram 4, 8 or 9 to Theaterplatz, or most any tram to Postplatz. Within the Zwinger’s Baroque walls are four museums, all keep the same hours: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, last entry 17:30! Suggestion: Drop your daypack/personal items at the Old Masters’ Gallery (downstairs, toilets adjacent) and pick ’em up after your Zwinger tour. But don’t forget your camera for the outside shots!
Old Masters’ Gallery, locally Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, last entry 17:15, free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger, Zwinger day ticket adult 10€, student 7.50€, worthwhile audio guide 3€), is king at the Zwinger having one of the most significant collections of paintings on Earth, displaying more than 750 works of art in its permanent exhibition. Here you can spend hours ogling masterpieces from the 16th to 18th centuries. Highlights include Rembrandt’s self-portrait with his wife Saskia (circa 1635), and, certainly one of the world’s most famous paintings, Raphael’s “Sistine Madonna” (circa 1513), featuring two adorable child-like angels (or cherubs, pictured above in header) set in the clouds and staring thoughtfully upward to the Virgin Mary. Perhaps they’re intrigued by their likeness to Baby Jesus? Note: Lockers and free toilets are located downstairs by the cashier and gift shop. The locker requires a 1€ deposit to store your daypack/personal items (coin is returned upon reopening locker). Or for around .50¢ you can check your things at the cloakroom, locally Garderobe.
When ready, show your admission ticket (or Dresden Card) to the staff member at the bottom of the grand staircase. (For an in-depth tour of the gallery, rent the audio guide here for 3€—couples share the guide for a cheaper tour.) At the top is the Old Masters’ Gallery; continue straight into the hallway to gape a series of absorbing “Canaletto” paintings depicting Dresden during its Baroque heyday in the mid-1700s. The last painting is of the Zwinger courtyard. Notice the absence of the outside fountains, the Meissen bells on the Glockenspielpavillon, and the very building you are now standing in. This is how the Zwinger complex originally looked, and these missing attractions weren’t added until the following century. (For example, the Semperbau, the name of the building you’re now in, wasn’t built until about 1848 and externally looks quite different from the rest of the Zwinger complex. When strolling the gardens outside, check out this typically overlooked detail.) Now step into the room leading off the hallway and go right. The next two rooms feature Rubens and Rembrandts (with he and his wife Saskia toasting a beer on the far wall). When ready, head back through the immediate rooms and continue straight (up the steps then down) all the way to the far wall in the last room. The painting facing you is Raphael’s (Raffael’s) “Sistine Madonna.”
Armory, locally Rüstkammer (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, allow 30 min for a visit, free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger, Zwinger day ticket adult 10€, student 7.50€, or you can buy a single ticket for just this museum: adult 3€, student 2€). In the ornate passages of the Rüstkammer more than 1,300 exhibits from the king’s personal collection are displayed on 950 sq.m (10,225 sq.ft) of floor space representing medieval weapons of glistening steel, razor-sharp sabers and battleaxes, flintlock pistols and musket rifles, as well as jousting regalia and ceremonial suits of armor—even small suits made for kids.
Porcelain Collection, or Porzellansammlung (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, last entry 17:30, free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger, Zwinger day ticket adult 10€, student 7.50€). This famed collection, the largest of its kind on Earth, originated in the early 18th century because of one man’s obsession with porcelain. Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and King of Poland, described his passion for the precious and fragile material as his “maladie de porcelaine,” or porcelain sickness. In 1710 he established the Meissen porcelain manufacturer, which enhanced his already unprecedented collection from Asia with local products. By 1721, the Porzellansammlung comprised more than 14,000 examples of the “white gold” and was rated as the most significant collection of its kind in the Western world. During World War II, the collection was wisely moved out of town and therefore survived the war—although, in Soviet hands. The porcelain was transported back to Dresden from Moscow in 1958, and since 1962 the Zwinger has housed Augustus’ white gold. Without a doubt the most renowned part of the collection is its 18th-century Meissen Porcelain; roughly 8,000 pieces are on display from the manufacturer’s earliest products. Other treasures of the Porzellansammlung include examples of ancient Chinese ceramics and priceless pieces from the Ming dynasty. An exciting addition to the museum, the Gallery of East-Asian Porcelain fills the lavish new wing, former orangery of Saxon electors, redesigned by internationally renowned New York-based architect Peter Marino. Borrowing from his fashion roots, having completed chic projects for Fendi in Rome, Louis Vuitton in Paris, and Giorgio Armani in New York, Marino mixed modern luxury with Baroque opulence, swathing walls with silk and display stands with gold. The Gallery of East-Asian Porcelain celebrated its grand opening on October 15, 2006, to an awed crowd experiencing a touch of the king’s “maladie de porcelaine.” Note: After your visit, consider exiting onto the outdoor promenade and walk the upper-level circuit to the other side of the Zwinger, descending the steps to the grotto where 16 nymphs in niches encompass a dreamy fountain.
Dresdner Schloss: Neighboring the Zwinger and Hofkirche is the former royal residence of Saxon monarchs, locally known as the Dresdner Schloss, or Residenzschloss, first mentioned in the 13th century. It was enlarged 200 years later in Renaissance style and a grand palace began to take shape. In 1701 fire gutted the complex, and the incumbent ruler, Augustus the Strong, wasted no time in building a superior structure. During World War II, however, the Schloss was pegged by Allied bombs and once again endured major renovations, which were (for the most part) completed in 2006 (at a cost of 337€ million over a decade) to coincide with Dresden’s 800th birthday celebrations. Within the Schloss’ royal walls are a handful of world-class museums and rotating exhibitions, which keep the same *hours: Wed thru Mon 10:00-18:00 (last entry 17:30), closed Tue. *Except the Historic Green Vault which is open until 19:00. The most popular attractions within the Schloss are the Hausmannsturm and Green Vaults (Historic and New). The Coin Collection is also located here while its permanent home undergoes renovations. Tickets: Dresden Card holders and youths 16yr or younger are allowed free entry into all museums in the Dresdner Schloss (with the exception of the Historic Green Vault), otherwise the day pass costs adult 10€, student 7.50€ and can be bought via the central cashier (on ground floor) whose responsibility covers all in-house ticket sales. 
Toilets downstairs. To get there, enter Dresdner Schloss at corner of Sophienstrasse and (street) Taschenberg or the new Lions’ Gate around the corner on Schloßstrasse. Note: Same drill here with the lockers as in the Zwinger; store your things (on ground floor) for 1€ and pick ’em up after your visit. You’ll get the 1€ back when the locker is reopened. The other option is to check your belongings at the Garderobe for .50¢.
Hausmannsturm, (April to early Nov, Wed thru Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue and Nov thru March, allow 30 min for a visit, free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger, Dresdner Schloss day ticket adult 10€, student 7.50€). You’ve seen people reeling in the views from its gilded observation level soaring above the royal palace, now it’s your turn to climb the Hausmannsturm’s spiraling staircase (221 steps) and gain a bird’s-eye perspective of Dresden atop this 100-meter-high tower. On the way up you’ll reach the diminutive but rich Coin Collection (see next entry) followed by (on the above floor) an intriguing time mechanism reset in 1996. The latter controls all four tower clocks and rang from 1746 till February 13, 1945 (beginning of firebombing). Continue up the stairs to the observation level; the panoramic views will delight all who come. (Opinion: If you have a fear of heights, give it your best shot. You’ll be glad you did.) From your new vantage point, spot the Yendize. Note: At the Hausmannsturm’s ground-floor entrance, eyeball the post-war photos of the Schloss. The pictures on the left, shot by Erna von Watzdorf, art historian and employee of the Historic Green Vault (1928-1945), were recently and remarkably found in 2008 in a relative’s attic.
Coin Collection, locally Münzkabinett (same hours, price as Hausmannsturm above; price covers both attractions). All told, this monetary collection is one of the three largest in Germany, maintaining nearly 300,000 objects, from ancient coins to modern medals, and from banknotes to minting machines. Alas, 99 percent of the collection is presently in storage while its new home is being built. The outstanding 1 percent, however, is displayed in the Hausmannsturm. Cases loaded with ancient coins dating from the 4th century B.C. (Greek Hellenistic period) to Roman times (3rd century A.D.), including coins featuring Julius Caesar, Augustus, Caligula, Nero and Alexander the Great, will delight enthusiasts.
Green Vaults, Introduction: Here you’ll discover one of Europe’s most spectacular treasure collections, a cache of gold, silver, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, ivory, amber, you name it, dating from the 16th to 18th centuries. Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and King of Poland, began collecting valuables in the early 1700s from all over the world and housing them here in the Dresdner Schloss. Instead of securing these precious objects in a dark cellar, Augustus put them on full display to highlight the splendor of Saxony. He referred to the exhibition rooms as The Secret Chambers. However, because some of the rooms had a pale green hue, visitors referred to them as the Green Vaults. During World War II, the collection was transferred to nearby Fortress Königstein for safe keeping before the conquering Soviet army spirited them off to Moscow in 1945. A little over a decade later the collection returned to Dresden, but it wasn’t until 1974 that it found unsuitable accommodations in the Albertinum museum complex. (The Dresdner Schloss was in shambles and deserving of no treasures.) Today, massive renovations to the Dresdner Schloss (costing upwards of 500€ million with 42€ million of this amount used to refurbish the Green Vaults) have ensured the treasures their rightful place back home.
Even though there is one collection of treasures, its enormous size (and cost) has prompted the federal state of Saxony to list it as two separate exhibitions, the “new” and “historic.” Thus I’ve written them separately below. Note that pictures are not allowed in either exhibition. Store your things (on ground floor) for 1€ and pick ’em up after your visit. You’ll get the 1€ back when the locker is reopened. The other option is to check your belongings at the Garderobe for .50¢.
The New Green Vault, locally Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Wed thru Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, allow 45-90 min for a visit, free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger, Dresdner Schloss day ticket adult 10€, student 7.50€, audio guide 3€ but exhibition is decently described in English), moved into the Dresdner Schloss September 2004 and is located on the first floor (one level up). It is called “new” simply because it is displayed in a modern environment; unlike the Historic Green Vault, which is exhibited (on the ground floor) in the king’s original Secret Chambers. The other big difference here is that the treasures are secured behind safety glass, or display cases, whereas in the Historic Green Vault the treasures can be viewed openly on shelves and tables as if they were on show in your own lavish living room. Also, there is typically no wait to get in to the New Green Vault. A circular tour will run you through 10 rooms of treasures; in the first display room, notice the meticulous craftsmanship that went into the riches of the Mikro-Kabinett (back left corner). In the Dinglinger Saal (6th room), don’t miss the 132 petite figures that adorn the Throne of the Grand Mogul, dating from 1708. In the 7th room watch out you don’t collide with Augustus the Strong. In the last room your eyes will bug out at the sight of the 41-carat Green Diamond. Opinion: If you arrive in Dresden without a reservation to the Historic Green Vault, don’t fret. Equally as impressive, the New Green Vault can be viewed with little to no hassle.
The Historic Green Vault,or Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Wed thru Mon 10:00-19:00, closed Tue, allow 60 min for a visit, admission adult 10€, free for youths 16yr and younger), celebrated its grand reopening (Sept 15, 2006) on the ground floor of the Dresdner Schloss. It is called “historic” because it’s housed in the original treasure chambers, or Green Vault, which have been cleared of the ash and debris resulting from the bombing raids of World War II and restored to the same sumptuous caliber as Augustus the Strong kept them in 1733. To achieve this authentic look, some 100 restoration artists had to rely on old photographs, traditional skills, and computer imaging to match exact colors. Eighteenth-century mirrors, for example, were especially difficult to reproduce. These required special glass to be set onto a unique metallic finish to complete the precise look. The costs alone to recreate the wall moldings and coverings amounted to more than 12€ million. Unlike the New Green Vault where the treasures are protected in air-tight display cases, the treasures here are displayed openly on ornamental stands, shelves and tables with only a short barrier between you and the priceless objects. For this reason, the chambers are set up like a walk-in safe. To enter, you have to step through a double security door that also acts as a dust remover. (Ideal for any household.) Entry into the chambers is limited to 100 visitors per hour, thus tickets are issued with a fixed start time. Miss this time and you don’t get in! To procure a ticket either make an advance reservation or stand in line. However, in peak season (May-Aug), most tickets are sold out days ahead. To be fair, museum officials do not release all tickets by way of advance reservation. About 40% are held back for last-minute arrivals who will then have the opportunity to stand in line early a.m. to get a ticket for that day. If this is you, get in line between 9:00-9:15 (but outside the summer months you can line up when the cashier opens at 10:00). Box office opens at 10:00. By 11:30 May-Aug, tickets are typically sold out for the day. But spare yourself the time and hassle of standing in line and reserve your ticket in advance. Reservations: To reserve a ticket you have three options: call +49-(0)351/4914-2000; email: besucherservice@skd.museum; or the easiest way is via this website: www.skd.museum. Note: There is an advance booking fee of 2€ per ticket, VC/MC accepted. Print out your own ticket. Be careful not to damage the barcode, your proof of purchase. Arrive at the Dresdner Schloss at least 10 min before your start time to allow for putting your coat, daypack, camera, or whatever in a locker or the cloakroom. Toilets are downstairs. Price (includes 60-min audio guide), 10€/person (plus 2€/ticket with advance reservation), no discounts, and the Dresden Card is not valid for this museum. Lastly, if you’re visiting during fall/winter when it gets dark early, you can get a decent look through the curtainless windows at the illuminated chambers inside. Enter grounds from (street) Taschenberg, go left and ramble along the side of the building.
Albertinum, (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00; audio guide included with Albertinum day ticket adult 8€, student 6€, or free entry with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger; allow at least 60 min for a visit; free toilets behind cashier). At the eastern end of Dresden’s romantic river esplanade (the Brühlsche Terrasse) you’ll find the must-visit Albertinum, an imposing 16th-century building originally the city arsenal now housing world-class museums such as the Sculpture Collection and New Masters’ Gallery. 
(Note: There are two entrances into the Albertinum—one from the Brühlsche Terrasse and the other opposite the steps leading down to Festung Dresden—both are impressive.) As you learned in my DIY tour of the Old Town, the Brühlsche Terrasse was formally a defensive rampart used in the fortification of the city, and it was here at the Albertinum that the munitions (or military supplies) were stored. In 1887, however, the building’s namesake King Albert (reign 1873-1902) modernized the then-defunct arsenal into a showcase for museums that was recently revamped to the tune of some 40€ million (completed June 2010). The most significant collection in the freshly designed Albertinum is the New Masters’ Gallery, or Galerie Neue Meister (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Albertinum day ticket adult 8€, student 6€, or free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger). The colorful walls of this picture gallery feature 19th- to 20th-century masterpieces, with emphasis on German Romanticism, alongside impressionists and post-impressionists, from Degas to Monet and Gauguin to van Gogh. Sculpture Collection, locally Skulpturensammlung (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Albertinum day ticket adult 8€, student 6€, or free with 2-Day Dresden Card and for youths 16yr or younger). Wettin monarchs, rulers of Saxony, gathered a significant collection of sculptures and antiquities throughout their lengthy tenure. Representing more than 5,000 years of art, the entire collection parades a pageant of nude statues, including works from French sculptor Auguste Rodin, a menagerie of Egyptian bowls and vases (dating from 4000-2640 B.C.), and a couple of mummies.
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(This page was last updated June 2011)
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