Daytrips from Dresden, Germany
Excursions
The following destinations are near Dresden and with extra time each is a worthwhile day trip, in particular the medieval porcelain town of Meissen and the "Suggested day trip" into the Saxon Switzerland National Park.
For Meissen, click here.
Saxon Wine Road, (www.weinbauverband-sachsen.de). Out of the 13 wine-growing regions in Germany, the Saxon wine district is the nation’s most eastern and the smallest with 426 hectares (1,052 acres)—about 82% of this land is dedicated to white grapes, e.g. Müller-Thurgau (Rivaner), Riesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). The Saxon Wine Road delightfully wends its way 55 km along the north bank of the Elbe, from Pirna (23 km upstream from Dresden) to Seusslitz (10 km downstream from Meissen). The best stretch is from Radebeul to Seusslitz. In these parts, porcelain and wine go hand in hand. Grapes have been cultivated here for more than 800 years, along with the production of Augustus the Strong’s “white gold” for nearly three centuries. Wine enthusiasts should note that festivals are typically in full swing during the grape-pickin’ month of September. Ask TI for fest schedule. To fully experience the Saxon vineyards either drive and hike or bike and hike. Popular trails ambling through vineyards are marked Weinlehrpfad. Cyclists start early, pack a picnic, (and consider riding the S-Bahn back, e.g. from Meissen). Travelers who catch a lift with a paddle steamer from Dresden to Meissen will glide past a scenic abundance of terraced vineyards.
Note: The updated 2011 guide is no longer available for download (The updated 2012 guide will soon be released in February)
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Saxon Switzerland National Park, locally Sächsische Schweiz, (www.sax-ch.de).
This rather odd name for a German national park hundreds of miles from the Swiss border dates from the 18th century, when two artists from Switzerland fell in love with the region’s undulating landscape, mystical forests, sandstone plateaus, deep canyons and fascinating rock spires. The two artists, Anton and Adrian, were so rapt by all the beauty that it evoked thoughts of their beloved homeland, thus they coined the area “Switzerland” in Saxony. The locals were tickled by the comparison and the name has stuck for evermore. Throughout the centuries, the region’s much-adored sandstone has been the chosen source of building material to construct many of Dresden’s architectural highlights, such as the Zwinger and Frauenkirche, as well as the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin and the royal palace in Copenhagen, Denmark. The national park all told covers 92 sq.km (35.5 sq.mi) on the north (right) bank of the Elbe starting at Stadt Wehlen (32 km upstream from Dresden) and—almost without interruption—stretches to the Czech border (roughly 20 km). With umpteen natural wonders and more than 1,200 hiking trails, Saxon Switzerland is well worth a visit.
To get you started, I’ve penned a self-guided orientation tour (see “Suggested day trip” below) that contains a large dose of adventure, exercise, sightseeing, history and nature.
Getting there from Dresden: Trains (S-Bahn) leave every 30 min from the stations Hauptbahnhof and Neustadt direction Schöna (up to 60-min journey, sit on upper level, left side). If you’re not holding a Dresden Regio Card, from either station a one way ticket (Einzelfahrt) will cost 5.60€. But your best buy is the total network (Verbundraum) day ticket (Tageskarte) valid for all your public transportation till 04:00: adult 12€ (youth 6-14yr and seniors 60+ 10€), family 15€ (Familientageskarte). Small groups purchase the Kleingruppenkarte 23€, valid for up to 5 people till 04:00. Note: Holders of a Eurail consecutive-day or dated Flexi/Select pass ride free on the S-Bahn. Paddle steamers head upstream a few times before noon, but this is not recommended—just to get to Königstein takes 5.5hr. To return downstream via Königstein only takes 3hr (consider taking the last steamer at 15:30, applicable May thru mid-Oct, 16€/adult). Drivers, from the Old Town parallel the river upstream (via roads Terrassenufer and Käthe Kollwitz Ufer). After 6 km you’ll arrive at the Blue Wonder; cross this bridge and continue direction Pirna (this is the Saxon Wine Road) passing Pillnitz palace. Cross the Elbe River once again at Pirna and connect onto road 172 direction *Königstein. The road will cross the Elbe toward Bad Schandau and after some 10 km arrive at the Czech border. Total journey, 55 km. (*Note: If you plan to visit Fortress Königstein, follow “Festung” signs off route 172 to pay parking lot. From here it’s a 10-min walk to the elevator, or hop on the shuttle.)
Suggested day trip into the national park and Czech Republic (without Czech Republic, consider returning via steamboat from Königstein at 15:30, applicable May thru mid-Oct):
Start early (by 9:30 is fine); pack a picnic. Take the train (S-Bahn) from Dresden direction Schöna. Note: Schöna borders the Czech Republic but this part of the trip is not recommended, which I explain in the last paragraph.
To Schöna is a 60-min journey but you’ll reach your first stop, Kurort Rathen, after 40 min. The first 25 min of the trip are nothing special (unless you’re keen on eyeballing forlorn factories long abandoned since GDR times); then from Pirna (known as the gateway to the Saxon Switzerland National Park) the track scenically follows the Elbe River.
Roughly two minutes after the town of Stadt Wehlen keep an eye on the sheer cliffs to your left for the Bastei, a unique formation of sandstone spires connected by a 76 m (250 ft) long bridge dating from 1851 (pictured, but from the train you’re only able to see the backside of the central spire and a small section of the bridge).
This federally protected monument is your first destination. Step off the train at the next stop, Kurort Rathen (www.kurort-rathen.de), a cutesy-pie village of 500 residents on the opposite bank. (At the station note the train departure times so you can neatly plan your connection to Schöna.) Take the ferry across the river (1.40€ rt) to reach Kurort Rathen and the Bastei. (The ferry, interestingly powered by the river’s current with the aide of a tethered cable anchored upstream, runs regularly but the captain may wait a short while until it’s nearly full before departing, which isn’t a problem going over but returning it could be if you’re cutting it close to catching the train.) On the opposite bank walk straight into the village then go left and left again following signs to the Bastei. The hike will take 40 min to reach the bridge; if you’re in a hurry and don’t mind sweating you can do it in half that time. Whatever your pace, you will be greatly rewarded at the top with superlative views of the Elbe valley and the miracles of nature.
After your explorations, hop back on the train direction Schöna. About two minutes farther along (on river bend) you’ll see the massive 13th-century Fortress Königstein perched upon the ridgeline, your next stop. At Königstein, exit train right and descend the footpathed street. At the bottom on the right is the area tourist information office (April-Oct daily 9:00-17:30, Nov-March Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00).
Fortress Königstein, locally Festung Königstein, (www.festung-koenigstein.de, open daily year round, last entrance one hour before shown closing times, April-Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-March 9:00-17:00, adult 6€, student 4€, family 15€, recommended audio guide 2.50€, allow 3 hours for a visit, this includes travel time to/fro fortress). Like Alcatraz, Fortress Königstein is often referred to as The Rock. And for good reason, since medieval times this hulking stone mass has stood above the ridgeline regulating the trade route below like a bully in a schoolyard, levying tolls on passing merchant vessels and ensuring safe passage. Immense and intimidating, the citadel’s thick curtain walls were impossible to crack with the antiquated firepower of the day, thus the only way to conquer such a beast was to choke its food supply. After a four-year siege, the tactic worked and the Königstein defenders surrendered in 1406 marking the castle’s only capture. Through the following centuries, Königstein grew into an impregnable 23-acre fortress, a showpiece for court festivities, a garrison for the Kaiser’s troops, a prison for POWs during the two world wars, a storage depot for Dresden’s museums (including the entire inventory of the Green Vaults), a hospital for wounded soldiers, a reform school, and today a cultural monument: an eyewitness to history, awaiting your visit. Moreover, the boundless views from the fortress’ ramparts of the landscapes of the Elbe valley and national park are unparalleled and alone worth the price of admission. Suggestion: Since the info boards within the fortress grounds are only described in German, rent the audio guide from the gift shop (pairs can share it to minimize cost). The alternative is a self-guided pamphlet for 1€, but I don’t recommend it. (Toilets are near the gift shop.) Walk around the whole of the fortress, along its defensive walls, soak up the eyepopping vistas, punch the numbers of each attraction into your audio guide. Unless you’re afraid of heights (like me), step into the guard tower (#43 next to #42) teetering on the cliff edge. Arguably the best photo opportunity, however, capturing a battery of cannon and the bending river as a backdrop, is at #111 (not shown on the hand-out flyer but it’s near #25). Round off your fortress tour with a visit to the beer garden or bakery (both open April-Oct), or the medieval gasthaus Zum Musketier next door to the gift shop (#17). Note: The site cashier is located at the foot of the fortress. Included with admission, a scenic glass elevator (Aufzug) will hustle you up to the grounds (except Nov-March when only the non-scenic freight elevator is operational). Drivers, follow “Festung” signs off route 172 to pay parking lot (5.50€/day). From here it’s a 10-min walk to the fortress cashier, or hop on the shuttle (2€ ow, 3€ rt). Railers, you have two options: trek 40-min up and 20-min down or ride the fortress shuttle (Festungsexpress, every 30 min, April-Oct 9:00-17:00, 3€ ow, 5€ rt, family 11.50€) directly to the cashier and elevator. Pick up the shuttle in town on the far side of the traffic circle from the TI. By foot, there are two routes up to the fortress and I’ve walked them both, each taking about 40 min up and 20 min down. Route 1, although beginning in the center of town by the church, is burdened by hundreds of exhausting steps. Route 2, in contrast, begins on the edge of town and climbs gradually through the forest. Thus I recommend you take route 2 up and route 1 down. To reach route 2 follow the main road in town back towards Dresden then veer left up the path opposite the Edeka grocery store (store hours: Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00). To find route 1 from the fortress is tricky, thus ask staff to point the way. (The trail will at first descend through the forest and pass a huddle of houses before reaching the string of steps leading down to the town church.)
To crown the perfect day, ride the 15:30 steamboat from Königstein to Dresden, returning 18:30, applicable May thru mid-Oct, 16€/adult. Railers, to return to Königstein train station, walk the riverside promenade. Beneath the station, the first set of stairs climb to the platform heading direction (Richtung) Schöna; the far set of stairs climb to the platform heading direction (Richtung) Dresden. En route is the steamboat dock.
(This last stretch is not recommended.) Back on the train, the end of the line is Schöna. As the train pulls into the station, the market stalls you see on the opposite bank are in the Czech Republic. There is no town here, just an isolated train station and a maze of marketers. A ferry will transport you across the river (90-second trip, 2.60€ rt). Note: If you’re looking for traditional goods from the Czech Republic, you won’t find ’em here. The umpteen market stalls are run by Asians who sell typical products from China at reasonable prices. The currency is the euro and the spoken language is German; you’ll be hard pressed to find English speakers in these parts.
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(This page was last updated June 2011)
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