Do-it-yourself Frankfurt, Germany
Sights
Free FRANKFURT
(1) A handful of museums have particular days earmarked for free admission. For example, the Jewish museums along with the Film and History museums are free on the last Saturday of each month. The Money Museum is always gratis.
(2) Speaking of money and museums, head to Kaiserstrasse 30 and step inside one of the more beautiful banks you’ll ever see. It belongs to the Commerzbank and dates from 1905 (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00, Tue/Thur till 18:00).
(3) The cathedral is free and worth a visit, as well as Galeria Kaufhof for big-city views; both of these attractions, including St. Paul’s Church (next entry), are part of my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town (see below).
(4) St. Paul’s Church, home of German democracy, is free and worth a buzz through to examine the pictorial exhibition outlining the building’s tremendous history, which includes a visit by JFK.
(5) Do you remember Alzheimer? He’s buried at the Hauptfriedhof in the northern suburbs.
Alzheimer, Dr. Alois (b. June 14, 1864 — d. Dec. 19, 1915). Hailed a medical guru, Dr. Alzheimer specialized in brain research and neuropathology and was widely recognized as the authority on dementia after reporting his studies at a medical seminar in 1906. He proposed that abnormalities of the brain, in particular the cerebral cortex, were responsible for the malfunctioning of brain cells, causing memory loss, hallucinations, disorientation, and even death. Dr. Alzheimer is buried with his wife (tombstone pictured) in the Hauptfriedhof, Frankfurt am Main, (section J, against wall, GPS: N50 08.021 E8 41.434, ride U5 to Hauptfriedhof, Mon-Sat 7:00-17:00, Sun 9:00-17:00, March & Oct till 18:00, April & Sept till 20:00, May-Aug till 21:00, www.frankfurter-hauptfriedhof.de).
(6) Let’s not forget Anne Frank; learn her history, read excerpts from her best-selling diary, view her birth house on my self-guided Anne Frank Reflective Walk.
(7) Oskar Schindler, Spielberg’s inspiration for the movie “Schindler’s List” (1993), lived unassumingly in Frankfurt from 1965 to 1974, the year of his death. There is a memorial plaque (pictured) outside the apartment house where he lived; you can find it (at Am Hauptbahnhof 4) next door to O’Reilly’s Irish pub across from the main train station.
(8) Die Börse, the German stock exchange (www.deutsche-boerse.com, bull and bear in front of main entrance, picture courtesy of ©Tourismus + Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main),
offers a free multilingual presentation of its electronic marketplace that is particularly interesting for industry professionals, brokers and enthusiasts. The presentation is offered thrice daily Mon-Fri: 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00. For security purposes you must bring your passport and reserve at least one day in advance by phone 069/2111-1515 or email: visitors.center@deutsche-boerse.com. Note: When reserving, notify them you are an English speaker so you can be slotted in with the English-language presentation. To get there, the stock exchange is located on the north side of the Old Town, within a 10-min walk of the market square Römerberg; U- or S-Bahn to Hauptwache, then short walk.
(9) Fueled by high finance and umpteen conventions and conferences that attract thousands of businessmen, trade enthusiasts and consumers, Frankfurt supports a healthy dose of “legal and taxed prostitution.” Cashing in on sex and striptease, the red-light district can visibly be described as somewhat seedy, shifty and drug-infested. That said, as long as you remain vigilant, it’s a reasonably safe area to stroll through—just keep moving or you risk getting spanked! Since this neon-flashy erotic quarter is near the main train station, it presents a salacious opportunity to kill time between trains. For an exotic escapade, wander (freely) into one of the multistory brothels called Eros centers. Here, women seductively stand in doorways waiting for the pleasure of your introduction. On average, 50€ buys the john a quick ride on the train o’ love. Note: If you’re visualizing Amsterdam’s red-light district, stop. There’s no comparison! To get there from the main train station, venture along Taunusstrasse two blocks to Elbestrasse. Bingo!
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DO-IT-YOURSELF OLD TOWN TOUR
Charlemagne to Skyscrapers—90-120 min
This Old Town spree will acquaint you with Frankfurt’s medieval center and its attractions within the amount of time it typically takes James Bond, secret agent 007, to experiment with an arsenal of clandestine gadgetry, stop a band of terrorists from overthrowing a foreign government, and make love to a harem of sexy women trying to infiltrate his spy ring.
Along the way I’ve listed two toilet locations, printed in bold; (you’ll also encounter numerous places to eat and drink and be merry).
Okay, ready? Let’s begin our tour at Römerberg, which is a 20-min walk from the main train station or much quicker ride either the U4 or U5 (subway) to Dom/Römer (exit Römerberg and at top of escalator go right then roll left downhill to square). Römerberg, as it’s called, is Frankfurt’s historical core, where Charlemagne once constructed his fort in the 8th century. It was the scene of numerous Carolingian trade fairs and a bustling marketplace during the Middle Ages. The square is still the pulsating heart of Frankfurt and a great place to begin your explorations.
Jog over to the fountain in the center of the square. Trumping this former well, called the Fountain of Justice (locally Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen), is Lady Justice. She has symbolically stood here before the citizens of Frankfurt for some four centuries (since 1610), holding a set of scales in her left hand to represent a non-biased court while intently gripping a sword in her right hand to signify the power of her authority. Visitors on the first weekend of August will see Lady Justice festooned with grape vines and the square humming with families, carnival rides and live music during the Mainfest, a festival dating from medieval times to pay homage to the Main River and its harvest.
Leveled during World War II and rebuilt in the 1980s, the strip of half-timbered houses behind Lady Justice duly exemplifies the city’s medieval heritage. On good-weather days restaurant workers buzz in and out of these quaint structures tending to the wishes of their customers who sit contentedly beneath colorful umbrellas eating, drinking, chatting, smoking, people-watching, absorbing the historical backdrop as if auditioning for a part in a Rembrandt painting.
Behind this serene scene, rising towards the heavens, is St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (tip of spire visible; if you don’t see it, shuffle left 15 or so meters for a full tower view). 
Construction on this magnificent house of worship began around 1235 to replace a dilapidated 9th-century Carolingian church on the same spot. From 1356 the cathedral served as the electoral site for German kings, and from 1562-1792 as the coronation site for 10 emperors of the Holy Roman Empire—hence its nickname: the Kaiserdom, or Emperor’s Cathedral. In 1867 a fire gutted the interior, and during its reconstruction the tower (dating from 1415) was extended to its present-day height (92m/301ft). Inside the cathedral’s entrance hall (Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00, Sun 13:00-20:00), pictures profoundly illustrate the devastation and desolation wrought by World War II bombs upon the holy structure and downtown area. Perhaps with divine intervention (and a little heads-up planning by locals), many of the cathedral assets survived, such as the Sleeping-Mary-Altar (1438, left of high altar behind iron gate); the Bartholomew-frieze (circa 1410, flanking high altar); and the Dom Museum (3€/2€, Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat/Sun 11:00-17:00). For a breathtaking view of Frankfurt, climb 328 steps to the tower’s observation level (enter outside around back, Aufgang zum Turm, March-Oct daily 9:00-18:00, adult 3€, student 1.50€). Exposed from the violent bomb blasts of the war, a trove of Roman artifacts and ruins were discovered directly in front of the cathedral. Moreover, archaeologists revealed two important bathing complexes dating from circa 100 A.D. Although public baths played a significant roll in Roman culture, the general traveler will find the maze of stone walls within the excavation site hard to interpret, perhaps even a bore.
Turn and look to where Lady Justice is facing. These five interconnected patrician houses are part of the so-called Römer, Frankfurt’s town-hall complex accommodating the offices of the mayor and city administration. On the right corner is tourist information, open Mon-Fri 9:30-17:30, Sat/Sun 10:00-16:00. Of the three step-gabled structures, the central one with the clock is Haus Römer, the historic town hall (since 1405) and from which the square takes its name. Inside the civic structure is the Standesamt, or “marriage registry,” thus the reason during our platz hop you may see newlyweds being showered with confetti by family and friends. Upon Römer’s facade, either side of the clock, are Frankfurt’s two medieval coats of arms. Below are four sculpted figures representing influential Kaiser’s in the history of Frankfurt and of the Holy Roman Empire. From left to right, they are Frederick I (HRE 1155-1190, a.k.a. Barbarossa, meaning ‘red beard’ in Italian) was the first king to be elected in Frankfurt (and crowned in Aachen the following week). —Ludwig the Bavarian (HRE 1328-47), who spurred the economic development of Frankfurt through a number of imperial privileges. —Charles IV (HRE 1355-78), was the architect of the Golden Bull in 1356 that declared only seven princes were to have the authority to elect German kings and that Frankfurt be the electoral site. (On a side note, Charles IV is the namesake of the famed Charles Bridge in Prague.) —and Maximilian II (HRE 1564-76), who was the first king to be crowned in Frankfurt.
The five large windows climbing up the Römer’s facade shed light into the treasured Kaisersaal, or Emperor’s Hall, the former imperial banquet room where Holy Roman emperors celebrated their coronation. (The latter ceremony is similar to a wedding, when the emperor to-be would go to the church or cathedral with his crew to accept before God the eternal union of sovereign and state followed by a trip to the Kaisersaal for the reception.) 
Adorning the walls of this massive hall are 52 larger-than-life portraits of significant kings and emperors, beginning with Charlemagne (crowned 800 A.D.) and ending with Kaiser Franz II (abdicated 1806). The adjoining balcony, like ages ago, is still a revered pulpit where only honored persons may stand to wave to the masses below. (Note that the picture of the half-timbered houses was taken from the Kaisersaal in the rare instance that the door to the balcony was open when I visited.) If you were to visit the Kaisersaal (daily 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00), take the lane (Limpurgergasse) running along the left side of the building. After some 25 meters step through the arched portal on the right and purchase your entry ticket (2€) from the automat on the wall, then climb the spiral stairway. Because the Kaisersaal is still used for special functions it’s possible it will be closed to visitors upon your arrival.
Focus back on tourist information (in corner building); we’ll be headed this direction in a short while but first I want to point out a few things by the river. Turn to Lady Justice’s left and saunter downhill.
The two-tone church on the square (ahead left), Alte Nikolaikirche, dates from 1150 and is an example of early Gothic architecture. This holy sanctuary of Protestant faith is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of seafarers, but because of his legendary reputation of goodwill and secret gift-giving, you’re more familiar with this saint as Santa Claus. Interestingly, the original day Christmas gifts were exchanged was December 6, St. Nicholas’ feast day, but after Martin Luther’s Reformation this changed to the 24th/25th. However, December 6 in Germany is still the day children (who have been good) receive a boot full of sweets (or a tree root for the misbehaved from Santa’s evil servant, Ruprecht). You see, on December 5th, children across the land sit and thoroughly scrub their boots clean, then leave them outside by the front door in anticipation of the overnight arrival of St. Nick. The following morning, elated children wake to their boots stuffed with small toys and chocolate goodies.
(Note: Culture vultures will be interested to know the large sandstone structure left of the church is the Schirn Kunsthalle.)
Speaking of tasty treats, if you were here on the plaza during Advent your nose would guide you through a wondrous maze of decorated stands flush with gingerbread, hot apple wine (heisse Apfelwein), handcrafted tree ornaments and Nativity scenes (to name a few of the holiday items) for sale at Frankfurt’s traditional Christmas market. Although it’s not likely December as you read this, and you’re now craving something tasty, a sweet surprise awaits you in a moment, but first I want to introduce you to Frankfurt’s namesake, Charlemagne, king of the Franks, standing tall outside the blocky History Museum (Historisches Museum) in front of you (as you continue downhill). Note: The outmoded, blocky section of the History Museum is scheduled to be razed in the spring of 2011, thus Charlemagne will likely be moved elsewhere during the interim.
Charlemagne, or Charles the Great, was the quintessential emperor, setting the example for all future monarchs in the second millennium. He assumed the title King of the Franks (then landlords of Central Europe) in 768 A.D. and was later crowned ‘Emperor of the Romans’ by the pope on Christmas Day in the year 800. Charlemagne conquered most of Europe, uniting Christian lands to bolster church power, which paved the way for the 1,000-year Holy Roman Empire, or First Reich. Unique to history, Charlemagne was successful in concurrently ruling an empire while acting as head of the church. He unified the Roman, Germanic and Christian cultures that were the necessary building blocks for Europe’s progression through the coming centuries. Thus you see Charlemagne here holding a bejeweled orb symbolizing his power over the world in his hand. Typically the imperial orb (Latin, globus cruciger) is mounted with a cross to associate the emperor’s Christian authority with that of God. But in this unfortunate case, somebody stole it! Fortunately, though, the king has not been stripped of his legendary sword, Joyeuse (meaning joyful).
Continue past Charlemagne, down toward the river. On the right is the late Renaissance “Haus Wertheim,” dating from around the year 1600. Pull up to the second doorway; the red plaque will inform you that this is “the only original half-timbered house to have survived the war-time destruction of the Old Town.” Next door, the pastry shop (Konditorei) Hollhorst (Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00) has been selling the sweet taste of Frankfurt to locals and insiders, like you, for more than 75 years. Step inside. It all looks good, doesn’t it? Yum. Try the Bee Sting (Bienenstich), or a local specialty called Bethmännchen (marzipan balls, little bag 4.80€) baked from a 19th-century recipe. They also prepare some 16 kinds of cookies. If it’s Advent season, sample their freshly baked gingerbread and assortment of Christmas stollen (fruitcake) with rum and raisins. Before leaving, eyeball the picture on the back wall of JFK in 1963 when he was in town.
The Main (pronounced ‘mine’) River before you is formed some 300 miles east just outside the Bavarian town of Kulmbach near the Czech border and dumps into the Rhine at the city of Mainz 17 miles downstream (to your right). The most notable cities along its course are Aschaffenburg, Würzburg, Bamberg, Schweinfurt and, of course, Europe’s finance capital, Frankfurt.
If you’re keen for a cruise to gain a waterborne perspective of Frankfurt, buy a ticket from the boat operator sitting in the booth (www.primus-linie.de). Your best option is the 50-minute sightseeing cruise downstream (departing April thru mid-Oct, daily, every hour 11:00-17:00 and more on weekends, adult 7.30€, family 20€). 
But for now, ramble out to the middle of the footbridge and capture marvelous city views of skyscrapers and more. Some 10,000 people per day traverse this iron bridge (called the Eiserner Steg, dating from 1869) to scenically stroll between the Old Town and the trendy suburb of Sachsenhausen on the opposite (south) bank. If you were to cross the river, you’d arrive on what’s called Museumsufer, or Shoreline of the Museums, where the city’s most important cultural institutions reside (see Museums) and where every second Saturday (9:00-14:00 year round) an extensive flea market is set for business. On the last weekend in August the shoreline will be a spectacle of art and culture during the ultra-popular Museumsuferfest.
When ready, retrace your steps to the tourist information office on Römerberg, cross the street via the crosswalk and stop. If needed, toilets are located in Starbucks on the corner (daily 9:00-22:00, go downstairs, steep steps).
From your spot in front of the crosswalk, bounce left to St. Paul’s Church (free admission, daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 16:30, allow 20-30 min for a visit). Known locally as Paulskirche, a visit here for history buffs and JFK admirers is a must! The traditional interior of this church no longer exists. Instead, the circular hall has been outfitted with a pictorial exhibition recounting the building’s history. Upon entering, visitors are fixated on the 1991 mural titled the “Procession of the People’s Representatives to St. Paul’s Church” but first I recommend you watch the 10-min film summarizing local history (inside on left, press touch-screen for English). Upstairs (closed to the public) is an immaculate assembly hall frequented by the mayor, and on occasion by the federal chancellor.
St. Paul’s Church stands today as a symbol of, and memorial to, German democracy. It was here, not the Reichstag in Berlin, that on May 18, 1848, Germany’s first freely elected parliament (National Assembly) held session. Within 10 months the National Assembly passed the first democratic constitution, together with the Fundamental Rights of the German Nation, a document that significantly influenced the structure of the Weimar Republic in 1919 and the Federal Republic of Germany in 1949. Alas, the constitution led to a revolt and the National Assembly was abolished, convening here for the last time (the following year) on May 30, 1849. Three years later the church was again used as a place of worship. During World War II, it became increasingly more difficult to hold Mass and the final service was held on March 12, 1944; shortly thereafter a storm of bombs smashed through the holy structure (illustrated at #9 in the pictorial exhibition). Immediately following the war, donations were gathered to restore the structure in a simplified, contemporary form. St. Paul’s Church was reconsecrated and declared a national memorial on May 18, 1948, the 100th anniversary of the National Assembly’s first meeting. It was also here, at this symbol of democracy, that President John F. Kennedy spoke to West Germany and the rest of the free world on June 25, 1963 (a plaque on the outside wall commemorates this visit). The next day JFK flew north and made his famous Berlin speech, but it was here that he gave it a test run and declared he was a 'sausage': Ich bin ein Frankfurter!
Jog back to Starbucks and connect with the foot traffic heading up the cobbled shopping lane. Two doors from Subway sandwich restful customers sit and indulge in original Italian ice cream at Gelateria La Perla. Their tourist-friendly menu with pictures makes ordering the spaghetti ice cream a breeze, or the double chocolate sundae with whipped cream and waffle biscuit, or a fusion of melone lampone.
Ahead, at the light, cross the street (Berliner Strasse) and continue straight along the busy thoroughfare (Neue Kräme).
At the next (petite) intersection (Bleidenstrasse), stop: From this point; if you were to go right one block you’d find the recommended restaurant-café Römer Pils Brunnen on the right corner but, arguably more important, if you were to instead go left two blocks, you’d reach the quaint inner-city street Große Hirschgraben and the birth house (pictured) of Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Germany’s literary legend and Shakespeare equivalent. Out of Goethe’s 82 years of life (1749-1832), he spent 26 of them in this affluent four-story dwelling, now a wonderful museum, where he wrote his most celebrated work, “Faust.” On the second floor (3rd floor U.S.) is the Geburtszimmer, Goethe’s birth room; (museum daily 10:00-17:30, adult 5€, student 2.50€, with Frankfurt Card 2.50€ or free with Museumsufer Ticket, comprehensive audio guide 3€ or use the English translation sheet inside, allow 30-60 min for a visit but enthusiasts could easily spend two hours; note there is no elevator thus visitors must climb three flights of stairs to view the whole museum; photography is allowed but without flash; fans of classical music, jazz and opera will appreciate the two-floor selection of compact disks to browse at the adjoining CDs am Goethehaus store).
(Note: If you grab a bite to eat or visit Goethe’s birth house, return to this intersection and...)
Continue straight and follow the flow of people into the Zeil, Frankfurt’s main shopping street. Once here, leapfrog straight through the scores of scampering shoppers to the Galeria Kaufhof department store (Mon-Wed 9:30-20:00, Thur-Sat 9:30-21:00) in front of you. Inside, dash left to the Aufzug-Lift at the wall and push 7 for the top floor. This will land you in the recommended self-service cafeteria, Dinea. You’ve hit it just right if the weather is nice and a table is available outside. (Note that the WC, or toilets, are seated in the corner by the main entrance.)
Walk outside onto the balcony and soak up the parade of urban views. In German the word for skyscraper is Hochhaus, literally “high house,” and there’s no city in Europe with a skyline of Hochhäuser like Frankfurt.
From the balcony, let’s focus on the city’s most notable skyscrapers along with a few other sights. From right to left, first eyeball the building with the candy-cane antenna. This is Main Tower (completed Nov 1999), locally Helaba, short for Hessische Landesbank, or the Provincial Bank of the State of Hessen. At 200 meters high (656 ft), Main Tower (located at Neue Mainzer Strasse 52, www.maintower.de) is the fourth tallest office building in Frankfurt. Some 300,000 of us per year whiz up to its 54th floor, in 45 ear-popping seconds, to behold the best view in town from—get this—the open-air observation platform. Yes, those little dots you see up there at the base of the candy cane are people. Yikes! For highfliers craving a bite to eat or a beverage, the 53rd floor is an exclusive bar-restaurant (Tue-Sat 17:30 till late, closed Sun/Mon, reservations tel. 069/3650-4777, all major CCs accepted). Heck, couples even get married up there! Weather permitting, the observation platform is open daily 10:00-19:00 (longer in summer and Fri/Sat) and costs adult 5€, student/senior 3.50€.
Next in line, the Commerzbank (with yellow logo), belonging to Germany’s second largest bank, cultivates a number of stress-reducing, oxygen-enhancing indoor gardens qualifying the building as one of the world’s first green, or environmental, skyscrapers. Designed by Sir Norman Foster, whose architectural landmarks include the London City Hall, Berlin Reichstag, Dresden Hauptbahnhof, and the Millau Viaduct in France, the Commerzbank was completed in 1997 as Europe’s tallest office building (258m/846ft). A title which it held for a decade, until 2007, when the Naberezhnaya Tower (block C) in Moscow was built 10 meters taller (268m/879ft).
Shift your eyes a tad left to the last of the gleaming superstructures. This is Euro Tower, home of the European Central Bank (ECB) and the continent’s single currency, the euro. One of the world’s most powerful financial institutions, the ECB was established on June 1, 1998 with the chief goal of unifying some 300 million peoples with the multihued and multisized European currency in your pocket, to encourage and facilitate foreign trade and so you can travel between countries without having to change monies.
Swivel left to the copper-green disk-like roof of St. Paul’s Church, and left again to the cathedral’s sandstone spire pinpointing the nucleus of Frankfurt.
Walk up to the glass barrier and eyeball the pedestrian street below. This is the beginning of Frankfurt’s main shopping drag (called Zeil), teeming with fashionistas, people-watchers, window-shoppers and street-performers. Zeil extends its economic reach about six football fields (left) to the bustling U-/S-Bahn station Konstablerwache. But you may be more interested in the well-connected subway station, Hauptwache, where you see people rising up from and descending into the subterranean passage. From here the S-Bahn departs every few minutes connecting much of the city, including the main train station (Frankfurt Hbf) two stops away.
Wander left along the balcony, over the petite bridge, to the neighboring building and up the twisting stairway to the lookout platform for even bigger, panoramic views.
That’s a wrap, folks! I hope you enjoyed the tour and now have a better feel for the settlement Charlemagne established all those centuries ago. Until our next tour, auf Wiederseh’n!
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(This page was last updated June 2011.)
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