Introduction: Innsbruck, Austria
INNSBRUCK
Population: 130,000. Country-Area code: +43-(0)512.
Elevation: 575 m (1,886 ft). Sister city: New Orleans, Louisiana. License plate: I.
Late in the 12th century, a bridge was built here over the Inn River—hence the settlement we know today as Innsbruck, meaning “bridge over the Inn.” Essentially a crossroads between the German and Italian territories north and south of the Alps, Innsbruck thrived on the heavy influx of merchants and their goods.
During medieval times, members of the dynastic Habsburg family moved to Innsbruck and established it as the imperial capital of the province of Tyrol. Although the monarchy died out nearly 100 years ago, Innsbruck is still the capital of Tyrol, one of Austria’s nine federal states.
Innsbruck’s Altstadt, or Old Town, is well-preserved and at its core is the city’s most admired site: the Golden Roof, crowning the former residence of Tyrolean monarchs. Tourists flock here within minutes of arriving in town to snap a picture of its shimmering tiles. Neighboring arcades and lanes are lined by a string of shops and cafés fronting Gothic-style facades painted in a rainbow of soft colors. During your explorations you’ll notice most all of Innsbruck’s buildings are painted in pastels. Tradition dictates that a building cannot be painted any other color than its original shade. Thus, if you were to visit Innsbruck again in 100 years, the same building will be the same color. And stringent building codes ensure that any new construction projects complement the style of the existing buildings, thus the Old Town can stay true to its medieval charm.
Ideally living in the heart of Europe, citizens of Innsbruck can readily gallivant across international boundaries. If they desire fresh pasta or a wood-fired pizza for dinner, the Italian border is a mere 35 km (22 mi) to the south. If a precision watch or an original Swiss army knife is on the shopping list, Switzerland—along with Liechtenstein—can be reached within two hours heading west. And in less than half that time, Innsbruckers traveling north can cross the German frontier and freely test drive the latest BMW at speeds most of us would consider a death wish.
Referred to as the treasury of the Austrian Alps, Innsbruck is famous for its winter sports and has twice hosted the Winter Olympics, in 1964 and 1976. Listed as the only major city in the Alps, Innsbruck is not surprisingly surrounded by a majestic curtain of mountains, which include eight ski areas totaling some 285 km (177 mi) of slopes and 80 lifts. And new (since 2008) is a sleek railway system that transports adventurers (within 30 min) directly from the town center to a waiting cable car and into the Alps (to the Seegrube ski area, which is also popular in summer for hiking and rock climbing; The Alps, Funicular & Cable Car).
The water in Innsbruck is alpine fresh, streaming down from the mountains pure and enriched with minerals. Fill up your water bottle at any one of the city’s numerous fountains—unless it says “Kein Trinkwasser” meaning, not for drinking!
Getting high in Innsbruck is easy, from climbing the City Tower to meeting mountain animals in Europe’s highest zoo, and from visiting the Olympic ski jump to exploring alpine summits. But that’s not all: Purchase the Innsbruck Card and the city is yours on a platter. This is the best-value welcome card offered by any city that I know! To help make your stay efficient and cost-effective, everything I’ve listed in the Sights section is free with the Innsbruck Card and set up as a two-day do-it-yourself tour: (day 1) Old Town to the Alps, and (day 2) Crystal Worlds to Schloss Ambras.
These GPS coordinates (N47 15.933 E11 23.655) will get you downtown to a world-famous sight; these (N47 12.657 E11 27.090) will lead you to real edelweiss!
Climate, Innsbruck:
In the table below I’ve entered the results of a 30-year climate study (1971-2000) completed by the Austrian Institute of Meteorology. The first three columns average the monthly (air) temperatures, rainfall and amount of sunshine hours in Innsbruck over the three-decade period. The fourth column lists the air-temperature highs and lows for that particular month dating from 1971.
Innsbruck |
Avg Rainfall |
Sun Hours |
Avg Temps |
Highest / Lowest Temps |
January |
42.5 mm (1.67 in) |
94.7 |
-1°C (30F) |
20°C (68F) / -21°C (-6F) |
February |
37 mm (1.45 in) |
121.1 |
1°C (34F) |
19°C (66F) / -14.5°C (6F) |
March |
54 mm (2.12 in) |
154.2 |
5°C (41F) |
25°C (77F) / -15°C (5F) |
April |
59 mm (2.32 in) |
168.2 |
8.5°C (47F) |
27°C (81F) / -4°C (25F) |
May |
83 mm (3.26 in) |
193 |
14°C (57F) |
32°C (90F) / -2°C (28F) |
June |
112 mm (4.4 in) |
186.8 |
16°C (61F) |
34°C (93F) / 3.5°C (38F) |
July |
134 mm (5.27 in) |
215.5 |
18°C (64F) |
37°C (99F) / 4.5°C (40F) |
August |
116.5 mm (4.58 in) |
214.4 |
18°C (64F) |
35.5°C (96F) / 5°C (41F) |
September |
78 mm (3.07 in) |
180 |
14°C (57F) |
31.5°C (89F) / -.5°C (31F) |
October |
56 mm (2.2 in) |
159 |
9.5°C (49F) |
26°C (79F) / -6°C (21F) |
November |
62.5 mm (2.46 in) |
102.2 |
3.5°C (38F) |
21°C (70F) / -14.5°C (6F) |
December |
49 mm (1.92 in) |
82.8 |
-.5°C (31F) |
17°C (63F) / -17°C (1.5F) |
Note: The updated 2011 guide is no longer available for download (The updated 2012 guide will soon be released in February)
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Suggested Itinerary: Innsbruck is worth at least a two-day stay. Divide your time like so,
Day 1: Begin early (9:00-9:30) and set off on my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town. Buy the 48-hour Innsbruck Card to visit sites of interest. Note: All the attractions listed in my Sights section are free with the Innsbruck Card and are set up as a two-day do-it-yourself orientation tour. Included with the latter card, the hop-on and -off Sightseer bus will deliver you to each outlying attraction, making it almost effortless to see all of Innsbruck.
Day 2: Continue my DIY sightseeing tour using your Innsbruck Card.
Day 3: With an additional day pay the extra 5€ to buy the 3-day Innsbruck Card and consider the attractions listed in the Excursions section. 
Another fun and one-of-a-kind option is the guided 
mountain hiking program offered free (summer only, June-Sept) by the good folks at tourist information. Imagine alpine flowers, Tyrolean mountain huts, velvety meadows, bell-wearing cows, pine-fresh air, and jagged peaks rising like giant fingers pointing to the angels as you’re led through this breathtaking backdrop by a certified guide from the respected Alpine School of Innsbruck. Hard to pass up; this tourist information (TI) freebie also includes your transportation into the Alps, and even hiking boots if required. To qualify for this exceptional program there is no previous mountaineering experience necessary, but you do need to be in good physical condition and you must stay the night in Innsbruck (i.e. to help support the local economy), which you likely are since you’re still reading, so no problem. Ask at your accommodations for the (free) Innsbruck Club Card, which you present to the guide. The hiking program and daily departure schedule is listed in the first section of the “Activities!” booklet available at the TI, and probably at your accommodations. Meet your guide typically at 8:45 outside the main entrance of the Congress Center at Rennweg 3 (which I walk you past on my do-it-yourself Old Town tour, Day 1). The hike is of “medium” difficulty and generally all day, returning as late as 17:00. Bring along something to drink (e.g. bottle of water), a pair of socks (if you plan on borrowing hiking boots), and money (like 10-20€) so you can eat and drink with the group at one of the rustic mountain huts en route. To tide you over, consider packing some snacks or fruits (Grocery Stores). Your guide will present you with a neat little “Mountain tour book,” a kind of passport, to log all your future hikes and collect stamps from the huts. And you’re rewarded, too, for the number of hikes you achieve here in Innsbruck. For example, your first hike merits you a “bronze” edelweiss medallion (about the size of a 2-euro coin), the third hike a “silver” medallion, tenth hike “gold,” and on the twentieth hike “gold with rock crystal.” The latter mission of 20 hikes may seem improbable but, believe it or not, in September 2008 I met Steve A. from New Orleans who, astoundingly, was setting off on his 180th hike into the Tyrolean Alps. Really! (Hiking picture above courtesy of ©Werfen Tourism.)
Chapter Orientation: city map (see below); DIY orientation tour of Innsbruck, Day 1: Old Town to the Alps; DIY orientation tour, Day 2: Crystal Worlds to Schloss Ambras; Good Sleeps & Sites map; Good Sleeps; Excursions, including historic Hall in Tirol, a cable car lifting to real edelweiss, and the opportunity to bobsled the Ice Channel like an Olympian.
Don't miss it!: (Note: On days 1 & 2 of my do-it-yourself orientation tour of Innsbruck, I walk you past, or point out, all of these listings with the exception of the Olympic bobsled.) Buy the Innsbruck Card; eyeball the glint of the Golden Roof and visit its museum; relive Innsbruck's royal Baroque era at the Imperial Palace; pay your respects at the Court Church; taste test the sausage and schnapps shops (Schnapps & the Smallest Shop); climb the City Tower for breathtaking views; fan of crystal or not, browse the Swarovski Crystal Gallery; spring into the Alps on a funicular and cable car; stare down the take-off ramp at the Olympic ski jump; participate in the mountain hiking program (if time allows); and lastly (if your time and budget allow), rocket down a super-slick ice conduit on the Olympic bobsled ride of your life!
Tourist Information, (www.innsbruck.info, tel. 0512/53560). Innsbruck has two TIs; the one at the main train station (located in the central transit hall, Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Oct-April from 10:00) consists of a small one-man counter in a magazine shop and can help you with the basics (and a free city map but you must ask) while the other, purpose-built TI in the Old Town (located at Burggraben 3, 2-min walk from Golden Roof, daily 9:00-18:00) can offer you the skinny on most everything else, including the sale of touristic posters and souvenirs and cultural events like concert and theater tickets, even a Tyrolean folk dinner show (similar to a Bavarian Heimatabend). Either TI sells bus/tram tickets as well as foldout city maps (1€) with descriptions and history, or you can ask for the basic map for free (you can typically also get a map free at your digs). Recreationists ask TI for its “Activities!” booklet, which is updated annually for summer and winter. Summer activities include paragliding, rafting, canyoning, cycling, bungee jumping, mountain hiking and horseback riding. Winter activities include skiing and snowboarding, tobogganing and bobsledding and, of course, schnapps consumption. Note that a free shuttle bus to the ski resorts is offered to tourists who overnight in Innsbruck. Cyclists, ask TI for the Bike & Fun info map. Culture vultures, ask for the Museums booklet. Drivers, extra tourist info points are typically set up in summer at the main autobahn rest stops approaching Innsbruck.
Emergency Tel. Numbers, valid Austria-wide; Fire dept. (Feuerwehr) = 122; Police (Polizei) = 133; Ambulance/Rescue = 144.
Main Train Station, (www.oebb.at). Innsbruck’s newly renovated and sizeable Hauptbahnhof (Hbf) is non-smoking and, arguably, Austria’s best. Tourist information (Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Oct-April from 10:00) can be found in the magazine/gift shop in the main transit hall; (when facing TI, the post office is to your right in the corner and next door to it is the supermarket). The post office (Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-13:00) is also in the main transit hall and next door is the bustling supermarket (daily 6:00-21:00). Fast food is slim pickings in the station except for the bakery/snack bar immediately inside the supermarket, or head to Burger King directly across the street from the station. Lockers (2-4.50€/24hr) are located right of the post office by tracks 2-5. Train info and ticket purchase are located in the ÖBB Reisezentrum (daily 6:00-20:45) opposite the TI. Buses/trams are out front as well as taxis (left). You can surf the Web outside the station, see Internet below. A pharmacy (Apotheke Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-12:00) is located immediately outside the station (exit main entrance and go right — if the Apotheke is closed, a digital display by its front door will list the nearest open pharmacies). Getting to the Old Town from the station is an easy and scenic 15-min *walk, roughly 9€ by taxi, or hop on tram 3 direction Anichstrasse and get off at Maria-Theresien-Strasse (7-min ride, tram typically departs from bay C about every 7 min, and every 15 min after 19:30 Mon-Sat and all day Sun). *By foot, exit front of station straight, cross street at traffic light then go left to the next light (Salurner Strasse) and turn right. Continue straight; just past the second cross street (Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse) you’ll see Innsbruck’s casino on the left. At the third cross street (Maria-Theresien-Strasse) go right (north), but before you do check out the Triumphal Arch on the left. Take Maria-Theresien-Strasse north towards the grandiose curtain of Alps (called Nordkette, which you’ll see if not clouded over). Beyond the upcoming left bend is St. Anne’s Column and a few hundred meters farther is the Old Town and its gleaming centerpiece: the Golden Roof. By train from Innsbruck to Salzburg 2hr trip (hourly, 6:06 until last train 21:06) 38€/adult; Graz 6hr trip (every two hours with one change from 6:06 until last train 16:09; note trains departing *0:58 and 8:24 are direct) 51€/adult (*reserve night train in advance; expect a fee of around 3€/person but often waived for Eurail pass holders — I typically reserve my window seat in a standard seating carriage, i.e. Grossraum Wagen, Fenster platz); Füssen (Schloss Neuschwanstein) 3.5hr trip, every other hour, 2 changes, first train about 6:38, last train 18:36.
Bus/Tram, (www.ivb.at). Public transportation in Innsbruck is easy and efficient, combining buses and a new fleet of shiny red trams. Tickets cover both and can either be purchased at a tobacco (Tabak) shop or at multilingual *automats labeled “tickets” (*all major CCs accepted). The one-way ticket (Einzelticket) costs 1.80€ (or 1.90€ if purchased onboard); 24hr-Ticket 4.20€, valid for 24 hours from first use; 4-Fahrtenticket 6€, valid for 4 trips within Innsbruck; and the week ticket (Wochenticket) 13.20€ is valid for 7 days from first use and is transferable, meaning another person can use it. Note: Stamp aforesaid ticket types in the onboard time box to validate; watch locals. An on-the-spot fine of 60€ will be enforced if caught riding Schwarz, i.e. without a valid ticket. Reduced fare: Twenty-year olds and younger pay discounted fare, as well as families, small groups up to five persons, and seniors (women 60>, men 65>).
Drivers/Parking: For street parking pay at nearby automat and leave ticket on dashboard of your car (applicable times typically Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, otherwise free). Price (automat), 50¢/30 min, max 90 min (but on the Innstrasse side of the river the max is 180 min and Sat is free). Free parking can be found in the suburb of Reichenau, northeast of Old Town (20-min walk or ride bus O). Parking garages around town charge roughly 2.40€/hr, 17€/24hr. Note: To reach Füssen (Schloss Neuschwanstein) is within a 2-hour drive from Innsbruck. First head west some 30 km to Telfs. From here, the curvy but scenic road up to Reutte is only an hour. After Reutte it’s a straightforward shot to Füssen or Ludwig’s castles (signposted Königsschlösser). As a reminder, vehicles traveling on the Austrian autobahn system are required to have a “Vignette,” or toll sticker.
Innsbruck Card: With this must-purchase, money-saving card the city’s umpteen tourist attractions are all yours for one lump of salt! Don’t come to Innsbruck and pay individually for each sight—that’s just plain foolish! Look at the hefty price, for example, of the funicular and cable car into the Alps. Buy the Innsbruck Card and you’ll be permitted unlimited use of public transportation within the metro area and free one-time admission into all the attractions listed in the Sights section. What’s more, the hop-on and -off Sightseer bus is part of the package and will escort you to (or very near to) each outlying attraction, making your stay really feel like a vacation. The Innsbruck Card is sold in three period-types: 24hr/29€, 48hr/34€ and 72hr/39€, available at the TI or major museums and cable cars. When buying the card make sure you receive the booklet listing all the benefits, including the Sightseer tour route and schedule (so you can neatly plan your pick-up connections). Suggestion: I recommend the 48-hour card because one day is not enough time to see everything and three days is perhaps one day longer than you have available. If you do have a third day to spare, either buy the 72-hour card or join the TI’s free mountain hiking program. Note: The Innsbruck Card is not valid until you date it; do this prior to its first use.
Internet: Outside the main train station is a Net shop to surf (daily 9:00-21:00, 2.50€/hr, has Web cam and Skype but there is a 1€ rental fee for the headset if you don’t have your own)—face the train station then look left and the Net shop is on the corner (but it may move to another location sometime in 2011). A computer store/Net shop (daily 9:30-21:30, 2€/hr, has Web cam and Skype as well as facilities to fax, scan and copy) is located at Innrain 20, a few doors along from Marktplatz or less than a 5-min walk from the TI in the Old Town. Around the corner from the latter TI, you can surf free Wi-Fi at McDonald’s (open early till late), meters from the Golden Roof.
The post office in the main train station is open six days a week (Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-13:00), but open every day is the P.O. at Innrain 15 (Mon-Fri 7:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, Sun 10:00-18:00), a few doors along from Marktplatz or less than a 5-min walk from the TI in the Old Town. Note: Innsbruck’s main P.O. is presently being renovated—located at Maximilian Strasse 2 (one block west of Triumphal Arch)—and closed until further notice.
Laundry: There are two central coin laundromats that belong to the Bubblepoint franchise, in which both have Internet and Skype 2€/hr. One is a short walk around the corner from the main train station at Brixner Strasse 1 (Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat/Sun 8:00-20:00, 4€/wash, 1€/dry 10 min, free wash powder). The other is located by the cinema across the river from the Old Town at Innstrasse 11 (Mon-Fri 7:30-22:30, Sat/Sun 7:30-22:00, 3€/wash, 1€/dry 12 min, 1€/wash powder).
Grocery Stores: To get your picnic provisions in the Old Town, bounce across the street from the TI to the upmarket Hörtnagl (on corner of Burggraben and Museumstrasse) stocking the finer foods (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:30, Sat 8:00-17:00). Or, less expensive but less exotic, march one block farther along Museumstrasse to the discount grocery chain Hofer (Mon-Fri 7:15-19:30, Sat 7:15-18:00), where product is bulk shelved in the boxes they were delivered and where few brand names exist, e.g. no Coke, only cola. That said, Haribo gummi bears are for sale at Hofer, where I recommend you stock up on the delicious bärchen! Next door to Hofer and keeping the same hours, the Spar grocery store is the best of your three choices on this block. (Note: A Billa grocery store is also located on this block, corner of Museumstrasse and Erlerstrasse, but it’s rather small and therefore not recommended.) Farther afield, the supermarket in the main train station boasts the longest opening hours (daily 6:00-21:00) and is typically swamped with shoppers, especially on Sunday when all other grocery stores are closed! To savor the sights, sounds and scents of a real marketplace atmosphere with a scoop of the Mediterranean, follow your nose through the Markthalle (by the river a short walk along Markt Graben from the TI, Mon-Fri 7:00-18:30, Sat 7:00-14:00) past a zesty blend of vocal vendors selling today’s fresh fruits and cheeses and meats and fish and flowers and pasta and much more.
Pizzeria: I love pizza! Who doesn’t. And selling some of the largest slices you’ll likely ever see (about one-fourth of an extra large pizza, 2.90-3.50€) are two pizzerias positioned a pepperoni pitch from the river (mosey left of the Golden Roof towards the river and the pizzerias neighbor each other on the left). For cheaper pizza (about 1.80€ per large slice), visit the eatery at the east end of Museumstrasse, around corner from main train station.
Schnapps & the Smallest Shop: One of Innsbruck’s must-see-and-smell sights is its smallest shop: The award-winning Speckschwemme (Tue-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun/Mon), which specializes in the finest Austrian “Speck” (smoked and cured hams) and sausages in all shapes and sizes. No need to pull a number here to be served, max two of us can fit into this petite pantry at a time. You’ll love how the merchandise is literally hanging, or curing, before your very eyes. While here, turn your visit into an event and pop into the schnapps shop next door (Mon-Fri 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00, tel. 0512/576-580). Eins, zwei, drei…sample! Educate yourself on the best Austrian schnapps from traditional distilleries, not mass-produced souvenir brands for tourists. Depending on the time of year, the owner (Eva/Stefan) stocks upwards of 140 types of schnapps made from a variety of fruits; prices range from 11€ to more than 200€ per bottle. They typically also stock fine wines, including Eiswein (ice wine), and a pleasing pumpkin liqueur that goes nicely with vanilla ice cream. GPS: N47 16.113 E11 23.675. To get there, the two shops are located at Stiftgasse 2-4. When standing before the entrance of the Golden Roof, go right onto Hofgasse. Before the archway at the end of the lane, turn right into Stiftgasse and the shops will be in front of you.
Horse-Drawn Carriage, locally Fiaker. Scenic rides through the Old Town cost 25€/30 min, max 5 passengers. Carriages can readily be found on Rennweg across from the Imperial Palace. Note that rides double as a city tour, therefore the better English your driver speaks the better your tour.
Cinema: For the latest Hollywood hit, head to Metropol Multiplex located at Innstrasse 5, across the Inn River from the Old Town (Mon-Wed 6.40€, rest of week 1st-3rd row 7.50€, from 4th row 9€, student/senior 7.50€, CC: VC, MC; tel. 0512/283-310 reservations). Note: The cashier is typically open from 13:30; ask he/she for the current schedule of English-language films (labeled OV, meaning “original version”).
Casino, (free entry, must be at least 18 years of age to enter, ID required; open 364 days, 15:00 till late, slots from 11:00, closed Dec 24, tel. 0512/587-0400, www.casinos.at). If you’re feelin’ lucky, head to Innsbruck’s casino positioned next to the Hilton hotel at Salurner Strasse 15, a 5-min walk from the main train station.
(Drivers, you can park for free in the garage adjacent to the casino if you purchase either of the following chips offers; hand casino cashier your ticket to validate.) Holders of a valid Innsbruck Card are welcome to a free drink (sparkling wine or juice) and 25€ in chips for 23€ or 35€ for 32€. Some six poker tables, seven roulette and four black jack tables, along with some 200 slot machines (called Automaten), await your providential touch. But in case the cards don’t fall in your favor, only gamble what you can afford to lose. Sign in at reception on the ground floor, where there is no dress code, a small bar, one black jack table and around 100 slot machines. Upstairs, however, on the main gambling floor, where a live pianist strokes the ivories every Wednesday evening and the serious money is wagered, men are required to wear a jacket (rental available 2€, see reception). There is no dress code for the ladies except that no tennis/sports shoes are allowed (for both men or women). For the latest poker tournament, ask TI or call casino in advance.
Flea Markets: Every Saturday (8:00-13:00) year round you can rummage through the petite but pricey flea market in the Old Town, around corner from TI and Court Church. Although prices are pegged to the influx of tourism, bargains can be found. While tourists are picking through the latter market, locals have their hands full at the Hafen bazaar (GPS: N47 15.334 E11 22.582) at the south end of town where vendors sell second-hand treasures and trinkets straight out of the their cars (every Saturday 7:00-13:00, catch bus C direction Mentlberg or Sieglanger and get off at Innrain/Medicent, 6 to 10-min ride, bus departs Sillpark, Landesmuseum, Museumstrasse, Maria-Theresien-Strasse, Marktplatz every 15 min).
Church Service, locally Gottesdienst. Note that hours may have changed; for the latest info and other religious denominations, check with staff at your digs or at the TI. Catholics visiting on a Saturday should celebrate Mass at the Jesuit Church (Jesuitenkirche). The English-language service begins at 18:00 typically downstairs in a centuries-old crypt that is the final resting place to 11 royals, six of these belonging to the Habsburgs. Their visible caskets are neatly locked within dugouts in the wall. If you’re not in town on a Saturday, the crypt is usually open to visitors outside of Mass services. GPS: N47 16.137 E11 23.876. The Jesuit Church is located on Universitätsstrasse (opposite No. 13) within a 5-min walk of the Golden Roof.
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(This page was last updated June 2011)
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