Self-guided Innsbruck, Austria
Sights
DO-IT-YOURSELF TOUR
EVERY ATTRACTION listed in this Sights section—which covers Day 1 and Day 2 of the do-it-yourself tours—is free with the Innsbruck Card (see below). Start early (plan for 9:00-9:30, Day 1) to maximize your time. The admission tickets you’ll collect along your sightseeing odyssey double as terrific mementoes.
Note: Because there is so much to see, purchase the 48-hour Innsbruck Card and split the sightseeing into two days. I’ve listed the attractions in a suggested touring order, beginning with Day 1 and the do-it-yourself tour “Old Town to the Alps.” (Note that on Sunday the Court Church is closed for Mass until 12:30 and the Golden Roof is closed Mondays Oct thru April as well as all of Nov.) Buy the Innsbruck Card in advance from the TI or from the cashier at the first attraction you visit (e.g. Imperial Palace, Golden Roof). If you start first thing in the morning (say 9:00-9:30), the sights are listed in order to synchronize with a late lunch high above Innsbruck. Pack a picnic (Grocery Stores) and savor it somewhere scenic like (Day 1) in the Alps or (Day 2) at the Olympic ski jump—or, if you’re picnicked out, either location has a place to eat.
If you require public transportation to reach the Old Town in the morning to begin your day of touring, or if you wish to visit another sight first that requires the use of the Sightseer bus—instead of paying individually for the bus fare and then buying the Innsbruck Card at the attraction—buy the card beforehand. The seller will explain how to validate it prior to its first use so your bus/tram fare will be covered.
Lastly, within your Innsbruck Card info booklet, you’ll see the entry for the Museum im Zeughaus, meaning Museum in the Armory (Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00, admission includes entry into all Tyrolean state museums: adult 10€, student 6€, or free with Innsbruck Card). Although the former armory is historic, dating from the year 1506, the museum is dull and dated and without English translation, therefore it is not worth your time to visit and consequently nowhere to be found within my two-day DIY tour. The museum’s curator did tell me that the permanent exhibition will eventually (one day) be updated with an English-language audio guide to boot. However, if you’re compelled to visit the armory today, ride the Sightseer to the Zeughaus and exit the bus left, then go right through the underpass and at the yellowed wall at the end of the street go right to the armory (Zeughaus) ahead on the left.
The Sightseer bus (www.sightseer.at) runs year round roughly every 40 min, 9:00-18:00. To reach the key sites outside of the Old Town, use the red hop-on and -off Sightseer bus, which is comfortable, air-conditioned and outfitted with headphones providing (spotty) commentary in six languages. Grab the schedule (either from TI or bus driver) listing the Sightseer tour route so you can neatly plan your pick-up connections. If you have any questions, ask your Sightseer driver, who typically speaks helpful English. Price, the Sightseer is free with valid Innsbruck Card, otherwise pay driver 3.20€ one way or 6€ day ticket (the day ticket is also valid for all local buses/trams). Note: Sightseer bus stops are denoted by the company’s red-and-orange circular logo crowning the metal info post. On most maps, the Sightseer is represented by the letter “S” or letters “TS.”
Innsbruck Card: With this money-saving must-purchase card the city’s umpteen sightseeing delights are all yours for one lump of salt! Don’t come to Innsbruck and pay individually for each attraction—that’s just plain foolish! Look at the hefty price, for example, of the funicular and cable car into the Alps. Buy the Innsbruck Card and you’ll be permitted unlimited use of public transportation within the metro area and free one-time admission into all the attractions listed in the Sights section. What’s more, the hop-on and -off Sightseer bus is part of the package and will escort you to (or very near to) each outlying attraction, making your stay really feel like a vacation. The Innsbruck Card is sold in three period-types: 24hr/29€, 48hr/34€ and 72hr/39€, available at the TI or major museums and cable cars. When buying the card make sure you receive the booklet listing all the benefits, including the Sightseer tour route and schedule (so you can neatly plan your pick-up connections). Suggestion: I recommend the 48-hour card because one day is not enough time to see everything and three days is perhaps one day longer than you have available. If you do have a third day to spare, either buy the 72-hour card or join the TI’s free mountain hiking program. Note: The Innsbruck Card is not valid until you date it; do this prior to its first use.
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Do-it-yourself Innsbruck
Day 1
Old Town to the Alps
Note: If you don’t already have an Innsbruck Card, buy it from either the cashier at the Golden Roof or Imperial Palace. If you’re up for a picnic today, I’ll point out four grocery stores en route before we hop on the funicular climbing into the Alps. Toilets are readily available in the various museums and attractions you visit throughout the day.
There’s no better place to start our tour of Innsbruck than its shining centerpiece: the Golden Roof (GPS: N47 16.109 E11 23.591). It does not, however, open till 10:00. If you arrive earlier than 10:00, jump to the next set of directions and I’ll guide you back here after the Imperial Palace (because I want you to tour the Golden Roof before we reach the Court Church).
Golden Roof, locally Goldenes Dachl (Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, May-Sept also open Monday, but closed the whole month of Nov, adult 4€, student 2€, or free with Innsbruck Card, audio guide included, allow 45 min for a visit). Undeniably Innsbruck’s most eminent site is its Golden Roof, dating from the late 15th century. No expense spared, the petite and pitched roof takes its name from the 2,657 gilded copper tiles used for its creation to crown the medieval residence of Tyrolean monarchs. Emperor Maximilian I (1493-1519), who notably established the Habsburgs as a pan-European dynasty, commissioned the spiffy roof over his favorite veranda and royal box from which he could view the masquerades and jousting tournaments on the plaza below where you likely now stand. Today, the former Habsburg residence is used for civic purposes (such as the marriage registry) but what concerns you is the Maximilianeum, a museum on the 2nd floor spanning six rooms commemorating the life and times of Emperor Maximilian I, including a 20-min film narrative and entry up to the aforesaid veranda. Opinion: Many tourists consider the roof overexaggerated, and I tend to agree, but the Maximilianeum is very much worth your time. And wonderfully complementing the Maximilianeum, the Court Church recently (2009) created a multivision experience further unwrapping the emperor’s influential life.
When standing before the entrance of the Golden Roof, go right onto Hofgasse, the quaint lane flanked by souvenir shops, and mosey to No. 12. Stop here. For the sake of this tour, let’s say the two-tone archway in front of you is high noon (12:00) on a clock dial. Looking slightly left (or counterclockwise) to 11:00, the glass door you see beneath the balcony is the entrance into the Imperial Palace, or Hofburg. If you have time, tour the palace. But before you do, remember the spot where you are standing. When finished, return here and again face the archway.
Imperial Palace, locally Hofburg, (daily 9:00-17:00 last entry 16:30, except Wed till 19:00 last entry 18:30, adult 8€, student/senior 6€, free for youth 19yr and younger, families free on Sunday, or free with Innsbruck Card, audio guide included [key-in room number as you go along, key-in unique numbers of objects you're interested in], allow 45-60 min for a visit, www.hofburg-innsbruck.at). Wander through the Hofburg at your own pace and relive Innsbruck’s imperial era, when the palace was the seat of provincial sovereigns. Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa (1740-80) refurbished this enormous 15th-century residence into a Baroque super-palace brimming with lavish bedrooms, ballrooms and banquet rooms. Of the 25 rooms open to the public, the *Giant Hall (with its walls resplendent in three dozen paintings and portraits of the extended royal family) is regarded as the most magnificent ceremonial hall in the Alps! This alone is worth your time. (*Just like an 18th-century royal, you too can hold an event or a ball in the Giant Hall for the princely sum of 10,000€ per day!) Note: Pictures are not allowed inside the palace. Store your daypack/personal items in one of the lockers provided (insert a 1€ coin but you’ll get it back upon reopening locker). Besides royal apartments in the palace, you can also tour the intriguing mountaineering exhibit entitled “Mountains, an Inconceivable Passion”—ask cashier for exhibit’s free brochure with English text.
Back on your spot at Hofgasse 12. (If you haven’t already visited the Golden Roof, head back there now and tour the Maximilianeum then return here.) We’re going to walk through the two-tone archway in front of you but first I want to point out the lane (Stiftgasse) on your right. This is where you’ll find the sausage and schnapps shops. We walk by here again after our next stop, and once again later so you might want to taste test the shops then.
Schnapps & the Smallest Shop: One of Innsbruck’s must-see-and-smell sights is its smallest shop: The award-winning Speckschwemme (Tue-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun/Mon), which specializes in the finest Austrian “Speck” (smoked and cured hams) and sausages in all shapes and sizes. No need to pull a number here to be served, max two of us can fit into this petite pantry at a time. You’ll love how the merchandise is literally hanging, or curing, before your very eyes. While here, turn your visit into an event and pop into the schnapps shop next door (Mon-Fri 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00, tel. 0512/576-580). Eins, zwei, drei…sample! Educate yourself on the best Austrian schnapps from traditional distilleries, not mass-produced souvenir brands for tourists. Depending on the time of year, the owner (Eva/Stefan) stocks upwards of 140 types of schnapps made from a variety of fruits; prices range from 11€ to more than 200€ per bottle. They typically also stock fine wines, including Eiswein (ice wine), and a pleasing pumpkin liqueur that goes nicely with vanilla ice cream.
Continue straight through the two-tone archway. The grand marble portal in front of you is the former entrance to the Court Church (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 12:30-17:00, admission includes an audio guide and entry into all Tyrolean state museums: adult 10€, student 6€, or free with Innsbruck Card, allow 30 min for a visit including multivision experience, www.hofkirche.at).
Let’s have a peek inside, but us tourists have to detour past the cashier, who sits within the next doorway (beneath the protruding wrought-iron sign that reads: Tiroler Volkskunst Museum). Store your daypack/personal items in one of the lockers on the right (insert a 1€ coin but you’ll get it back upon reopening locker), then hand the cashier your Innsbruck Card. Here is also the entrance to the Tyrolean Folk Museum (explained below). Tell the cashier you want to visit it too; that way you’ll have a ticket if you choose to walk through.
Aside from the toilets located at the back of the gift shop behind the cashier, the first attraction I want to draw your attention to here is the new (12-min) multivision tribute to Emperor Maximilian. To find it, step into the courtyard, go left and straight through the doorway marked “Kaiser Maximilians letzer Wille.” Since you’ve already toured the Maximilianeum at the Golden Roof you’ll have a better understanding of this exhibit illuminating the man behind the imperial legend. Hopefully the room has reset itself and ready to go upon your arrival (if not you may have to wait a few min): push the Start button then English to begin the narration. When the door opens (after narration), walk through it into the next room (there are a total of three rooms). Upon the multivision’s conclusion, roll straight ahead and up the four marble steps into the…
Court Church, locally Hofkirche. Built from 1553-63, the Hofkirche is Tyrol’s most significant monument, possessing the memorial tomb of Emperor Maximilian I as well as the final resting place of Andreas Hofer—warrior, Tyrolean hero and Austrian patriot—who fought against Napoleon and was consequently executed by the French. (At the Bergisel/Tirol Panorama site on Day 2 of our tour you will see Hofer depicted in the Third Battle of Bergisel on the Giant Oil Painting and you’ll pass the actual battlefield where Hofer fought for Austria and his name became legendary.) Hofer’s tomb is located to the right upon walking into the church. His likeness is facing the Crucifixion of Jesus. In the center of the church, also facing Jesus, Maximilian I is the exalted figure seen kneeling atop his memorial tomb. (I use the word “memorial” here because the mortal remains of Maximilian are actually entombed in the city of Wiener Neustadt, his birthplace, near Vienna.) In true imperial pomp, Maximilian is flanked by the so-called black figures, 28 larger-than-life bronze statues depicting the emperor’s favorite relatives and one legend: King Arthur (when facing the front of the church, Arthur is the eighth figure along on the right. Note the third figure on the right, Kaiser Rudolf. You wouldn’t know it by his dreary expression but it appears he has an army of ardent admirers who regularly stroke his ego). At the front of the church, on the right choir wall, is the Ebert organ (typically covered until played). Dating from 1561, it is Europe’s oldest organ and registers as one of the five most significant in the world. At the back of the church, climb the steps to the Silver Chapel (Silberne Kapelle), tomb of Archduke Ferdinand II (who commissioned Schloss Ambras that you’ll visit on Day 2 of our tour) and his wife, Philippine Welser (first her on the left, then him beyond the wrought-iron gate). Dating from 1578, the chapel gets its name from the brilliant silver reliefs embellishing the altar.
Tyrolean Folk Museum, locally Volkskunstmuseum (next to the Court Church), offers a historical look (with little English translation) into Tyrolean culture and customs, from 18th-century Nativity scenes (Miniaturen des Evangeliums) to traditional costume and agricultural tools (daily 9:00-17:00 last entry 16:15, admission includes the so-called Museum Guide [not an audio guide but reading guide—scan object to operate] and entry into all Tyrolean state museums: adult 10€, student 6€, or free with Innsbruck Card, allow 25 min for a quick visit). One of the museum’s foremost highlights is its collection of 16th and 17th-century Stuben, or wood-paneled rooms (kitchen, dining and living rooms) characterizing the lifestyle of farmers and everyday citizens of the era (and how short they were, evident by the low doorways—Watch your head!).
When ready, retrace your steps back toward the Golden Roof. As you do—if the weather is nice—notice how many people are eating ice cream (bought from the stand ahead on the right side of Hofgasse, two scoops for about 2.20€). Europeans sure do love their sweets. And since you’re so close to Italy, many of these passersby will be speaking italiano.
Just before the Golden Roof, at the end of Hofgasse, follow the mint green Gasthaus Goldenes Dachl right around the corner onto Pfarrgasse. Go straight. On the square ahead is Innsbruck’s magnificent cathedral.
Cathedral, St. Jakob’s (daily 7:30-18:30, summer till 19:30, but because of religious services tourists are allowed inside from 10:15 Mon-Sat and from 12:30 on Sun). Step inside this glorious house of God remodeled in Baroque-style (1717-1724) and admire its striking interior and ceiling murals, crypt of Archduke Maximilian III (front left) and stucco work by the Asam brothers (remember their boffo church in Munich?). Take a pew. Rest your feet. Reflect. Of St. Jakob’s many treasures, arguably its most precious artwork can be seen at the high altar: the 16th-century painting of Maria-and-Child (Mariahilf) by Martin Luther’s friend, Lucas Cranach the Elder. At the rear of the church a walkway connects with the Imperial Palace, allowing the-then royal family to avoid commoners when hoofing it to Mass.
Outside St. Jakob’s look for the yellow scallop-shaped shell on a blue background, symbolic of the pilgrimage route known as the Way of St. James, or Jakobsweg in German. You see, in the early Middle Ages, it was popular (and still is) for Christians to travel great distances by land to the Spanish town of Santiago de Compostela, in which its blessed cathedral contains the relics of the apostle St. James (the Greater). One of these pilgrimage routes intersects Innsbruck, heading southwest to Spain and passing this very church, thus its name: St. Jakob’s, or St. James. And so, during your travels in Austria, if you ever see a house of God with the name Jakobskirche (St. James’ Church), you’re on a long and storied path traveling deep into the roots of Christendom. Note: Inside St. Jakob’s cathedral, in the right corner, is a Pilgerstempel, or remembrance ink stamp for pilgrims. Don’t be shy, go ahead and collect a stamp.
Return to the Golden Roof and face its entrance. From here, I’ll point out a few more sites. Explore these in the order you choose and I’ll see you back here when you’re done.
Five doors left of the Golden Roof’s entrance is the Bliem jewelry store (hard to see from your position), the only goldsmith (Goldschmiede) in Austria handcrafting edelweiss jewelry in the delicate filigree style, an exquisite gift for that special someone (tax-free shopping Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-17:00, VC, MC, DC, tel. 0512/582-799). A handful of storefronts beyond Bliem, a stone archway leads to the City Museum. To your immediate left (on the corner) you can’t miss the Hölblinghaus, and above your right shoulder is the City Tower.
Innsbruck’s skippable City Museum, locally Stadtmuseum (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, adult 3€, student 2€, or free with Innsbruck Card), houses two rooms of exhibitions illustrating the city’s 800-year history. English translation sheets on wall of each room. Upstairs are clean toilets as well as a reading room with archive. A visit here could take 15-45 min, depending on your interest.
Hölblinghaus: This extravagant Baroque-style facade (pictured) reminds me of the sweet decorations seen on a wedding cake. Named after its former owner, Sebastian Hölbling, the house was originally built in the 15th century featuring Gothic architecture. In the mid-1700s, the Hölblinghaus was refurbished in Baroque style to its present-day look.
Formerly a prison, the 15th-century City Tower, locally Stadtturm (daily 10:00-17:00, June-Sept till 20:00, adult 3€, student 2.50€, or free with Innsbruck Card, allow 20 min for a visit), affords a spectacular panorama of the Alps and a bird’s-eye view of the Old Town, including a so-close-you-can-almost-reach-over-and-touch-it perspective of the Golden Roof. From street level, look up to the clock tower and you’ll see the wrought-iron railing enclosing its open-air observation level, which can be reached via a 148-step work out. Opinion: Those of you who have a fear of heights, don’t deny yourself this opportunity; it’s a rather mild affair and the predictably stunning views are worth the anxiety.
Now that you’re familiar with the pulsating heart of Innsbruck and its history, let’s skip to its embracing mass: the Alps. With your back to the Golden Roof, you can see one of the alpine sights on tomorrow’s itinerary, the Olympic ski jump, in the distance between the two copper-green church domes. Walk straight ahead through the throngs of tourists toward the other end of the pedestrian drag. Along the way…
On the corner just past the City Tower is a handy pharmacy (Stadtapotheke) dispensing various medicines, prescriptions and remedies (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-12:00). Opposite the pharmacy is a fountain gushing pure mountain water; an opportune time to fill your bottle.
At No. 31 (left) is the recommended Hotel Weisses Kreuz with a fascinating history. Around this area you can pick up free Wi-Fi beaming from McDonald’s.
At No. 39 (left) you’ll spot the sparkle of the 
Swarovski Crystal Gallery (closed for renovation until its grand reopening August 26, 2011, daily 8:00-18:30, June-Aug till 19:30, www.swarovski.com/crystalgallery, tel. 0512/573-100), the world’s second largest crystal shop (behind Swarovski in Vienna). Whether it be now or later, a walk through this three-floor crystal emporium is free and worthwhile. Look out for my favorite Swarovski item, the dazzling—and affordable—crystal-ball key chain for only 12€, making a great souvenir for that special friend or relative back home (or even a personal gift). The sparkly balls are set with initials or Innsbruck landmarks. However, I bought my mom the plain crystal ball without anything inside. It looks amazing in the sunlight. (Note that if you spend 75€ or more, you qualify for tax-free shopping.)
Skip a few meters forward to Stiftgasse, the lane running alongside Swarovski. You know this lane because it ends at Hofgasse, by the sausage and schnapps shops. Across from Stiftgasse, to your right, is Schlossergasse. (By the way, “gasse” means lane.) If you were to walk Schlossergasse straight some 50 meters, you’d run into Cafe Munding, Tyrol’s oldest pastry shop, since 1803. The managers, sisters Almut and Anja, are two gracious gals whose family has run the cafe for six generations. Stop in for a pastry sometime; everything is freshly baked upstairs, even the various jams by the gals’ big brother Christoph, who once called New York City home when he lent a hand to Francois Payard’s fine patisserie in Greenwich Village. Because the sisters are free spirited and love to travel, like you and me for example, they converted a part of the building into Nepomuk’s Bed & Breakfast.
Continuing in the same direction (away from the Golden Roof), walk the last few meters to the end of the cobblestones and stop (before the vehicle-trafficked road named Burggraben). In a moment we’ll go left on Burggraben, past the TI, but first I want to point out a couple of things: Maria-Theresien-Strasse, the broad and busy avenue before you with St. Anne’s Column as its centerpiece (explained below), has just been redeveloped (April 2008 thru June 2010) from traffic snarls and exhaust fumes to a neatly paved pedestrian zone, venue to sidewalk cafés, summer festivals and seasonal markets (such as the Christmas market). To your immediate right, high up on the building, is a mural depicting the medieval Stadt Tor, or “city gate,” that once stood here as part of the fortified wall and main entrance into Innsbruck. Hence the street name Burggraben, meaning “castle ditch,” essentially the moat running around the bulwarks.
For now, if you’d like, go ahead and mosey out to St. Anne’s Column. When finished, return here and we’ll continue to the funicular railway departing for the Alps. But if you prefer to visit the column another time, skip to the hand below to begin the next set of directions.
Maria-Theresien-Strasse: This shop-lined thoroughfare, Innsbruck’s main drag, extends roughly 1 km from the tourist-trampled hub of the medieval Old Town to the Triumphal Arch in the south. Part way along it is St. Anne’s Column, where locals and tourists congregate to snap majestic views of the Alps. The Triumphal Arch, listed below, is 5 minutes farther along by foot (but consider visiting this site at the very end of our tour on Day 2).
St. Anne’s Column, locally Annasäule, (GPS: N47 15.933 E11 23.655). Dating from 1706, this rose-marbled Corinthian-style column was erected to commemorate the successful expulsion of Bavarian forces on July 26, 1703, St. Anne’s feast day, during the War of Spanish Succession. (On July 26, 2006, the Austrian post office released 420,000 units of the shown 55-cent postage stamp to honor St. Anne’s feast day on the column’s 300-year anniversary.) Atop the column is St. Anne and represented at its base is the Virgin Mary. Bring your camera; this much-photographed site faces Innsbruck’s most famous view: a grand alpine scene widely touted by the media during the Olympics. 
Note: Right of the column is the fashionable Rathaus Galerien shopping mall. Besides shops, a fabulous view and romantic drink can be had atop the complex at the 360° wine bar and lounge.
Enriching the southern end of Maria-Theresien-Strasse (within a 5-min walk from the above-listed column) is the Triumphal Arch, locally Triumphpforte, commissioned in 1765 by Empress Maria Theresa to commemorate both joy and sorrow. During the joyous occasion of her son’s wedding—Leopold II (brother of Marie Antoinette and later emperor 1790-92)—the festivities were suddenly interrupted and overshadowed by the death of the empress’ husband, and groom’s father, Francis I (Francis Stephen—his death is explained in detail in the Imperial Palace, or Hofburg). Thus, the north side of the arch (facing church clock tower) mourns the loss of a loved one while the south side (facing ski jump) celebrates matrimony.
Okay, let’s march on; we have a date with the Alps. Go left, pass tourist information (daily 9:00-18:00) and stop just ahead when you’re even with the white church steeple to your left. (At this point Burggraben changes to Museumstrasse.)
To your right, across the street, gather your picnic supplies at the fine-foods grocery store Hörtnagl or trot one block farther along (Museumstrasse) to the Spar or to its no-frills neighbor Hofer (for all their hours and details see Grocery Stores).
From your spot, in front of you is the Museumstrasse bus stop where the Swarovski shuttle departs (behind LCD display board you’ll see its blue-logoed shield atop pole) for the Crystal Worlds theme park (first attraction on Day 2 of our tour). And if you were to ramble to the other end of Museumstrasse then turn right you’d reach the Hauptbahnhof, or main train station, in 10 min.
But for now, go left and head toward the underpass. Every Saturday morning (8:00-13:00) you’ll find a flea market here vying for your attention. On the left is the very popular and recommended Bavarian-style restaurant Augustiner Stiftskeller (daily 10:00-24:00, kitchen 11:00-22:00, English menu). Tonight, consider their goulash soup (4.50€), roast pork (schweinebraten 9.80€), rump steak (15€), pork (9€) or veal “Wiener” schnitzel (14€), liter of Augustiner beer (6€), jellied/chocolate crepe-like pancakes (around 5€). Mmm.
Shoot through the underpass; on the other side you’ll recognize the entrance to the Court Church (right), and the archway leading onto Hofgasse (left), with the sausage and schnapps shops around the corner.
Keep marching forward (via sidewalk on left side of street) toward the gleaming alien structure at the end. Not long now and you’ll be yodeling like a bona-fide local in those mountaintops rising majestically before you. Eat lunch in between songs, gasthaus-cafeteria or picnic?
As you gallop ahead, alongside the stately facade (left) belonging to the Imperial Palace, you’ll pass the four massive Corinthian-style columns (right) fronting the Landestheater, or Tyrolean Provincial Theater, where world-class operas, musicals and dance productions take center stage (cashier Mon-Sat 8:30-19:00, Sun 17:30-19:00, tel. 0512/520-744, standing room 4€ to orchestra 55€). It is also here where horse-drawn carriages (called Fiaker) wait patiently for the pleasure to clip-clop tourists around town (for 25€/30 min, max 5 passengers; note that rides double as a city tour, therefore the better English your driver speaks the better your tour). If it’s a warm day, consider jumping through the 'wall of water' fountain positioned around the left side of the theater.
Next up, the mocha-brown building in front of you is the Congress Center, where business seminars, conferences and lectures are held. At the far side of its glass entrance is the meeting point (doorway next to bike rack) for the guided mountain hiking program offered free by the TI.
Good job! You’ve arrived at the funicular system. Now, descend into the gleaming alien structure and ascend into the Alps. Note: To enter the funicular loading area, scan your Innsbruck Card at the turnstile. The second stop from the Congress Center is the zoo, only a 2-min walk from the funicular station. Unless weather is a factor or some other prevailing circumstance, I suggest you visit the zoo on your way back down the mountain.
The Alps, Funicular & Cable Car (allow at least 2 hours from downtown Innsbruck into the mountains and back to the zoo, free with Innsbruck Card, www.nordpark.at). After years of planning and construction with umpteen delays, Innsbruck’s new funicular system opened on December 2, 2007, giving adventurers like you and me the chance to ride an ultramodern, 51€-million railway and cable car into the Alps above an Olympic city. Directly from downtown Innsbruck (at the Congress Center) a funicular (Section I) will transport you in just 10 min over the Inn River and up the first part of the mountain, via the zoo, to the end station (called Hungerburg at 857m/2,811ft). From here, walk one minute to the Nordketten cable car station (Section II), where a large gondola will lift you the rest of the way up the mountain to the Seegrube ski area (1,910m/6,264ft) and remarkable views in 10 min. Here you have access to a variety of hiking trails, Olympic-grade snow fields, and a warm gasthaus (self service cafeteria-style) typically dishing up schnitzel and spaghetti and much more; (á la carte upstairs, when open). If the weather is clear, connect onto the neighboring Hafelekar cable car (Section III) up another 1,391 feet to the summit (2,334m/7,655ft) seemingly on top of the world (then hike a short distance to the cross). Hours, cable cars and funicular depart daily every 15 min (or sooner if busy): funicular (Section I) 7:00-19:30 but Sat/Sun from 8:00; Nordketten cable car (Section II) 8:30-17:30, Fri till 23:30; Hafelekar cable car (Section III) 9:00-17:00. Price, the following transportation is free with the Innsbruck Card, round trip sections I + II adult 24€, student 20€, add 5€ for Section III to summit, other price combinations available. Note: If you’d like to experience more of the Alps, join the guided mountain hiking program offered free by the TI. What’s more, I’ve included another worthwhile cable-car option for you listed in the Excursions section that will put you face to face with real edelweiss June thru Sept.
Alpine Zoo, locally Alpenzoo (daily 9:00-17:00, April-Oct till 18:00, last entry 30 min before closing but arrive earlier to allow for a 60-min visit, adult 8€, student 6€, youth 6-15yr 4€, or free with Innsbruck Card, www.alpenzoo.at). Located 1.5 km, or 1 mile, across the river north of the Old Town, at an elevation of 750 m (2,460 ft), this one-of-a-kind zoo is Europe’s highest and only accommodates animals from the Alpine region. You can see more than 2,000 animals representing some 150 species, from brown bears to an aviary of birds and from bobcats to a cold-water aquarium. Besides an education on mountain wildlife, this scenic zoo offers one-heck-of-an-exercise program for its visitors who huff and puff their way up the terraced hillside to reach the higher enclosures, especially the elk at the top. Whew! The views of Innsbruck, though, are unsurprisingly stunning! Now that you’ve been forewarned, it may not seem so steep. To get there, you can reach the zoo by foot (30-min trek from Golden Roof), funicular (2-min walk from station), bus (W from Marktplatz), or car (parking daily 9:00-19:00 .40¢/hr for first 4 hours then 1€/30 min thereafter).
What a day! Pat yourself on the back for an adventure well done. (Pause for pat.) Celebrate dinner at the Augustiner Stiftskeller (Bavarian-style restaurant around corner from Old Town TI). The kegmeister pours arguably the best Bier in the land from wooden barrels. Weather permitting, sit outside, people watch, maximize the heady Innsbrucker air.
Click here for do-it-yourself Innsbruck, Day 2.
Click here for Accommodations Innsbruck.
Click here for Introduction Innsbruck.
(This page was last updated June 2011)
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