Romantic Road, Germany
"MAD" KING LUDWIG'S CASTLES
Neuschwanstein
(New Swan Stone)
in
Hohenschwangau
(High Land of the Swans)
Fairy tales do exist, because this one you can visit. Parked at the foot of the Alps at the southern end of the Romantic Road is Hohenschwangau, a nearly Austrian community of fabled castles. Schloss Hohenschwangau, built 1832-36 in neo-Gothic style, is where the fairy-tale king, Ludwig II, grew up. He especially loved playing in the garden and climbing the castle’s turrets with his younger brother, Otto. At age 18, in 1864, Ludwig inherited Bavaria’s throne and the title of king, enabling him to fulfill his childhood dream of building the most beautiful and luxurious castles in the land. 
He furnished them with murals of Wagnerian operas and medieval themes, showpiece bedrooms and gold-leaf fixtures, gaudy chandeliers and intimate grottos, and even a royal bathtub large enough to accommodate the Dallas Cowboys offensive unit (that’s 11 big dudes) with room to spare!
The epitome of castles everywhere is Schloss Neuschwanstein (pictured), a Ludwig fantasy made real that resurrected the storybook style typically associated with chivalry and noble knights, now one of Germany’s most visited tourist attractions accounting for some 1.3 million visitors annually. Ludwig commissioned its construction in 1869 on the scenic hillside opposite Schloss Hohenschwangau. Although Ludwig spent 17 years building Schloss Neuschwanstein, and emptied Bavaria’s coffers in the process, the castle was never completed and he lived in it only 170 days before his death in 1886, age 41. In the end, Ludwig’s megalomania cost him the throne and his life after being declared mentally unfit to rule. In spite of a tragic conclusion, Mad King Ludwig exemplifies true medieval romanticism in modern times and gave Bavaria its moneymaking legacy of fairy-tale castles. So come along, and discover Walt Disney’s inspiration for his Sleeping Beauty castle at Disneyland.
Chapter Orientation: castle Ticket-Center; Discount Passes; Schloss Neuschwanstein; Tours from Munich; King Ludwig II; Schloss Hohenschwangau; Toboggan Run; Good Sleeps (Hohenschwangau & Füssen); Schloss Linderhof; Schloss Herrenchiemsee; Füssen; Wieskirche.
Note: Because Hohenschwangau is mega-touristy, consider avoiding the overpriced food outlets and pack a picnic to enjoy on the banks of the enchanting Alpsee, a neighboring Alpine lake, where you can rent a rowboat (in summer) and feed the ducks and swans.
Hohenschwangau’s tourist information kiosk (daily April-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct 1 thru mid-Oct 11:00-18:00, mid-Oct thru March 11:00-17:00, tel. 08362/819-765) is located at the people-busy junction spearheading the parking lots and can be skipped by Ludwig tourists planning on visiting the castles. The castle Ticket-Center (around corner and up slope, follow crowds) is where you pick up/buy your tickets. Note: TI has toilets (pay .50¢ at turnstile or inconspicuously use the bathroom in a nearby restaurant). And note that the fountain left of the TI dispenses drinkable water for you to fill up your bottle.
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Railers: From *Munich catch the train to Füssen (hrly, 2hr trip) and then bus 73 or 78 to Hohenschwangau, Königsschlösser (about every 30 min, 7-min ride, 1.90€ one way, or 10€ one way by taxi). The bus drops off at the Hohenschwangau TI, around corner from castle Ticket-Center. Note that buses and taxis depart from outside Füssen train station. If you’re not traveling on a railpass, purchase the Bayern-Ticket (see below) to cover all your train and bus travel for the day. *From Munich trains depart for Füssen :51 min past every hour but departures on the even hour (e.g. 8:51 and 10:51) are direct while departures on the odd hour (e.g. 7:51 and 9:51) require one change.
Bayern-Ticket; Railers: The Bayern-Ticket is a terrific buy for individuals (21€) and small groups up to five persons (29€) traveling for the day within the German state of Bavaria and to/fro Salzburg (Austria) main train station. The Bayern-Ticket, or Bavaria-Ticket, is especially ideal from Munich if you’re headed to Berchtesgaden, Augsburg, Nürnberg, Rothenburg, Füssen (Schloss Neuschwanstein), or any of Ludwig's castles, which many of you will be. You can, for example, visit any of the aforelisted destinations for the day, and travel on the local trams and buses as needed, then return to Munich for the bargain price of 21€ one person or 29€ for small groups up to five persons. The Bayern-Ticket (group tariff, 29€) is also ideal for parent(s) who can use it to travel with an unlimited number of their own children aged 14 and under. What’s more, there are many discounts on attractions Bavaria-wide afforded to holders of a valid Bayern-Ticket, in which case I’ve listed these where applicable throughout this guidebook. Note: The Bayern-Ticket is valid Mon-Fri after 9:00 until 3:00 (the following morning) and the whole day Sat/Sun in 2nd-class seating on non-speed trains (like RE and RB, not ICE or EC) and on all public transportation within Bavaria (but not Salzburg) for the pocket-friendly price of 21€ one person or 29€ for small groups up to five persons. But for this price the ticket must be purchased either online (www.bahn.de, print invoice and bring it on train with your ID) or at a DB automat in the train station (automats accept all major credit cards and are multilingual). To emphasize; if the ticket is bought over the counter you will pay a 2€ surcharge (i.e. 23€ for individuals and 31€ for small groups), and even more if purchased on the train. Lastly, if you’re holding a railpass, e.g. Eurail, you may not find the Bayern-Ticket such a bargain. Weigh your pass-type and destination against the price of the Bayern-Ticket.
Drivers: Hohenschwangau is roughly 115 km (71 mi) south-southwest of Munich. At the southern end of the Romantic Road (route 17) follow signs “Königsschlösser” (meaning ‘royal castles’) to Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Upon arriving, park in any of the public lots, 5€/day. Note that lots are accessible 8:00 till 20:00 (stay beyond 20:00 and you’ll be locked in overnight)! From the lot, follow the flow of visitors the short distance to the TI or up the slope to the castle Ticket-Center (GPS: N47 33.317 E10 44.377). Since you’re so close to the border, consider crossing into Austria where gas prices are typically cheaper. Along the way you’ll pass medieval Füssen (5 km) then Lechfall, a dramatic waterfall. To reach Innsbruck from Hohenschwangau is within a 2-hour drive. First head direction Füssen, then Reutte, then route 179 (Fernpass) towards Nassereith to Telfs (route 189) and connect onto the A12 autobahn for the final 30 km into Innsbruck (but note that vehicles traveling on the Austrian autobahn are required to have a “Vignette,” or toll sticker; see next entry).
Vignette; Drivers: The maximum speed limit on the Austrian autobahn is 130 kilometers per hour (kph), but to drive on this efficient motorway you are required to have what’s called a “Vignette,” or toll sticker (pictured). The Vignette color this year (2011) is mango. If the sticker is not this color, it’s not valid! But even if it is the correct color, it still may not be valid. This is because the Vignette is sold in three (time-constrained) categories: 10 days 7.90€, two months 23€, and one year 76.50€. You can obtain this little decal at most any gas station approaching the border (and some gas stations within Austria). Note: Affix the Vignette to the inside corner of your windshield or behind the rear-view mirror. (Your rental car may already have a toll sticker from the previous renter; you’re in luck if it’s still valid.) If you happen to get pulled over without a valid Vignette, the fine is 120€, on the spot! Lastly, the law requires that you have an international driver’s license to drive in Austria (which you can typically pick up for $10-$15 from your local auto club).
Ticket-Center (Castles): To visit either castle you have to go with a guided tour. Tickets must be bought at the Ticket-Center (pictured). Each ticket is printed with a fixed start time (Einlasszeit); miss this time and you’ll have to buy a new ticket! And note that tickets cannot be refunded or exchanged. GPS: N47 33.317 E10 44.377. The Ticket-Center is located around the corner (left) from the TI; follow crowds up slope and it will soon appear on the right.
Note: To avoid standing in a two-hour line to buy tickets in summer (worst case scenario you don’t even get in), especially July/August, either arrive early (8:00) or *reserve your tickets at least 24hr in advance by phone (08362/930-830) or online. CC: VC, MC, AE. *To reserve tickets in advance costs 1.80€ extra per person, per castle. Pick up your tickets at the Ticket-Center well before the tour departs (at least 30 min for Schloss Hohenschwangau and 60 min for Neuschwanstein). Upon arriving, go to the counter on the right handling reserved tickets. If it’s unattended, head through the entrance on the right side of the building marked “Reiseleiter/Guides” and ask staff; (they speak good English).
Hours: (Ticket-Center) daily, April-Sept 8:00-17:00, Oct-March 9:00-15:00. Castle hours are synchronized with the Ticket-Center to open one hour later; for example, April-Sept 9:00 with last tour departing at 18:00, Oct-March 10:00 with last tour departing at 16:00. The duration of a tour at either castle is roughly 30 min. Note: Neuschwanstein is open year round with the exception of Dec 24-25, 31 and Jan 1.
Price: Admission into Neuschwanstein castle is adult 12€ and for Hohenschwangau adult 10.50€ — either castle is the same for student/senior (65+) 8€, and youths (17yr or younger) are free. CC: VC, MC, AE. To tour both castles (on the same day), as most travelers do, purchase the Königsticket—adult 21.50€, student/senior (65+) 15€. Note: With the Königsticket you will be scheduled to tour Schloss Hohenschwangau first and then Neuschwanstein, which is fine since chronologically you’d want to begin where Ludwig II grew up. After Hohenschwangau there will be roughly a two-hour interval before your Neuschwanstein tour begins, which is just enough time for you to reach the tour starting point. Thus, if you do not want to be rushed so you can do a little sightseeing (e.g. visit the Marienbrücke, see below) and have a bite to eat (picnic, feed the swans) beforehand, ask when booking your ticket that you be given 2.5 or 3 hours between tours. But whatever you do, do not be late for your tour of Neuschwanstein!
Suggestion: Buy the Königsticket. After your tour of Hohenschwangau, picnic and play at Alpsee (alpine lake adjacent to castle). Ride shuttle bus up to Neuschwanstein. Take postcard-perfect pictures of fairy-tale castle from Marienbrücke. Tour fairy-tale castle. Casually walk back down from castle or take horse-drawn carriage. Go tobogganing (see Toboggan Run below) at nearby Mount Tegel, or visit Füssen or Schloss Linderhof.
Discount Passes; the following three passes are offered by the Bavarian Palace Department, the largest civic authority responsible for federally protected museum properties in Germany.
2 Weeks/1 Year, (two-week pass adult 24€, partner 40€; year pass—valid from time of use for one year—adult 45€, family 65€). Recommended for culture vultures and long-term travelers is either the reasonably priced two-week (Mehrtagesticket) or year (Jahreskarte) pass valid for one-time entry into more than 40 of Bavaria’s state-owned palaces, castles and villas, e.g. Schloss Neuschwanstein, Linderhof, Herrenchiemsee, Munich Residenz, Nymphenburg. Note: Because Schloss Hohenschwangau is privately owned, it is not included in the pass. You can purchase either pass at the cashier of participating properties, e.g. cashier at Schloss Neuschwanstein (not at above-listed Ticket-Center), or in Munich at the centrally located museum and palace Info-Point (in the Alter Hof, Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00). Also note that if you were to buy the pass here at Schloss Neuschwanstein the cashier will try to get you on the next tour. Travelers who already possess either pass can reserve their Schloss Neuschwanstein admission ticket in advance (for 1.80€) just like anybody else (as explained above under Ticket-Center).
Königsschlösser pass (20€) valid for six months and one-time entry into Ludwig’s three royal castles: Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee. If you only plan to visit the latter properties, this is your ticket. If you plan on visiting more royal residences in Bavaria, then either above-listed pass is for you. Note: The same Note written above is also applicable for this pass.
Schloss Neuschwanstein: Debatably Europe’s most famous castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein (pronounced like ‘noy-shvahn-stein’) dating from 1869, is one of Germany’s most visited tourist attractions, netting some 1.3 million visitors annually (upwards of 6,000 per day June-Sept). Because of its commanding position high upon the hillside, Neuschwanstein took nearly two decades to build (and it still remains unfinished). Now, more than a century later, it’s your turn to negotiate the steep incline. (For ticket prices, see Ticket-Center above. To pick up a tour from Munich, see Tours from Munich below.)
There are three ways to reach Schloss Neuschwanstein: by foot, by horse-drawn carriage, and by shuttle bus. But note that neither the carriage nor the bus will drop you off at the castle entrance. The carriage drops off 5 min below the entrance and the bus 10 min above. By foot from the Ticket-Center is a steep 35-min trek to reach the tour starting point. The horse-drawn carriage departs regularly from in front of Hotel Müller (which is a bit farther along from the Ticket-Center on the right) and costs 6€ per person up and 3€ down. Pay driver. Not possible to reserve seats. Note: The ride up takes about 20 min, then you’ll need to walk 5 min to reach the tour starting point. If you’re pushed for time to make your tour, forget the horse-drawn carriage and start jogging! The best idea is to plan ahead so you’re not rushed. The shuttle bus typically departs every 20 min in front of Hotel Lisl (on the left roughly 150 meters beyond the Ticket-Center) and costs 1.80€ per person up and *1€ down. Pay driver. Not possible to reserve seats. *Note: I don’t recommend you ride the bus down, as you’ll need to hike 15 min back up the hill to reach the departure area.
Suggestion: I recommend you take the shuttle bus up (1.80€) and either the carriage down (3€) or casually descend on foot (free). When the bus drops you off, wander over to the Marienbrücke (see next entry) for the ultra-popular, picture-perfect view of Neuschwanstein you see on all the travel brochures and postcards (and heading this Neuschwanstein section). Just be sure to leave early enough to make your castle start time. Allow at least 10 min to visit the bridge and add an another 15 min for the walk down to the castle entrance.
Note: Tours of Schloss Neuschwanstein take 30 min and you’ll need to negotiate some 373 steps along the way (169 up, 204 down). Exclusive tours for wheelchair-bound travelers are conducted every Wednesday afternoon with advance booking, tel. 08362/939-880. For more info on Schloss Neuschwanstein and a virtual tour, click here.
Tours from Munich: If you’re based in Munich and don’t feel comfortable making your own way to Neuschwanstein, join Radius tours (tel. 089/5502-9374). Radius tours (and bikes) is conveniently located opposite track (Gleis) 32 in Munich’s main train station. The tour (including castle interior) costs *adult 44€, *student from 18yr 41€, (but if you already have a valid railpass 37€/34€), and departs from the Radius office at central station (mid-April thru Sept daily at 9:30—and Oct thru mid-April Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat at 9:30), where your guide will escort you onto a southbound train to Füssen then a bus to Hohenschwangau for a guided castle tour and local sightseeing before heading back to Munich (duration roughly 10hr). *Note: If you do not wish to tour the interior of the castle, no problem, you can deduct 9€ off the price, and for youths 17yr or younger the castle tour is free.
Marienbrücke, or Mary’s Bridge, dating from 1866. No visit to Schloss Neuschwanstein is complete without a promenade over Mary’s Bridge, rooted 90 m (295 ft) above the Pöllat Gorge. Those who have a fear of heights (acrophobia) will find it difficult to reach the middle of the bridge, where the best photos of the castle are captured. Even Ludwig II said, “…the views are enchanting from here.” Acrophobes (like me and possibly you) need to relax, get psyched, and rambo the moment. You’ll be glad ya did! From the castle entrance up to Mary’s Bridge is a steep, 15-min walk (follow signs Marienbrücke), or better yet catch the shuttle bus from out front Hotel Lisl (by Ticket-Center) to the castle drop off area near the bridge.
King Ludwig II
Arguably Germany’s most famous monarch, Ludwig II was born on August 25, 1845, in Munich to Crown Prince Max II (King of Bavaria 1848-64) and Princess Marie of Prussia. Max II often took little Ludwig to his castle, Hohenschwangau, for a break from big-city Munich to play in a peaceful, idyllic setting with his younger brother, Otto. When it was Ludwig’s turn to wear the Bavarian crown (1864), he did a rather sloppy job, as ruling a nation state did not come naturally. He first sided with the Austrians against the Prussians, or northern Germans, in the Seven Weeks’ War and then sided with the Prussians against the French in the Franco-Prussian War. Ludwig was more of a romantic, a pacifist, and a lover of the opera than a warmonger. Instead of riding high on a horse and heroically leading regiments into battle, Ludwig built castles—the most magnificent in the kingdom, in fact. However, this weird and wonderful lifestyle bankrupted Bavaria’s economy. Add Ludwig’s unorthodox leadership style to the mix and his cabinet decided they had no choice but to conspire against him. On June 12, 1886, they declared Ludwig clinically insane and exiled him with his doctor to Schloss Berg at Lake Starnberg, 25 km (15 mi) southwest of Munich. The next day, both he and the doctor drowned in 3 feet of water. (But I wonder; how is it possible that two grown men simultaneously drown, especially Ludwig, who was 6 feet 5 inches tall! Maybe Mad King Ludwig wasn’t so “mad” after all.) 
Within months of Ludwig’s death, tourists were paying to see Schloss Neuschwanstein. Ludwig’s legacy is without a doubt his fantastic castles. Ironically, the enormous debt he saddled Bavaria with that cost this king of hearts the throne as well as his life has been paid off a gazillion times over due to faithful tourism. Simply put, Ludwig equals big business! Today, a large wooden cross (pictured) rising from the shoreline of Lake Starnberg marks the spot of the king’s death. Each year at this location on June 13 a heartfelt costumed ceremony is held to remember his passing. To find the cross, either enter these coordinates (GPS: N47 57.843 E11 20.883) into your navigation unit or drive to the town of Berg on Lake Starnberg and follow signs to the Votivkapelle(Votive Chapel). Park and hike the last stretch (about 20 min), mostly through an enchanting forest.
Schloss Hohenschwangau: Dating from 1836, this neo-Gothic-style castle is where Ludwig II spent much of his childhood, dreaming of storybook castles and play-acting mythical tales. Thus it is fitting that he lived here while overseeing the construction of Schloss Neuschwanstein on the neighboring hill. If Ludwig wasn’t on the construction site itself, he would peer through his telescope on the 2nd floor to keep tabs on the progress. And you, too, can gaze through Ludwig’s telescope on the tour, which takes about 35 min to visit 11 rooms on two floors and traverse 90 steps. If time is on your side, definitely tour this residence—it’s actually more interesting than Neuschwanstein. To reach Schloss Hohenschwangau’s turrets is an easy 15-min climb from the Ticket-Center, or rest your feet and hop on the horse-drawn carriage (which departs regularly from in front of the Ticket-Center and costs 4€ per person up and 2€ down). Note: Because Schloss Hohenschwangau is privately controlled (by the Wittelsbach family trust), it is not included in either the two-week or year pass described above. Oh, and there is no photography allowed inside the castle.
Toboggan Run, (April-Oct, daily, 10:00-17:00—remainder of year with good weather and little snow 12:30-16:30, www.tegelbergbahn.de). Within view of Schloss Neuschwanstein you can ride the kid-friendly Sommerrodelbahn, or toboggan run, 760 meters, nearly half a mile, down the lower slope of Tegelberg (Mount Tegel) on a zig-zagging aluminum track with only a flimsy joystick as a brake. Yikes! One ride, locally ein Fahrt (pronounced ‘fart’), costs adult 2.60€ and youth 3-15yr 2.10€, six adult farts 10.50€ (that’s 1.75€ per fart)! GPS: N47 34.131 E10 45.401. To get there, by foot it can be reached in less than an hour from Hohenschwangau’s TI kiosk (head along Colomanstrasse about 1 mile and follow sign right, or ask at TI for shortcut). Drivers, from Hohenschwangau’s TI kiosk, head along Colomanstrasse about 1 mile and follow sign right. Parking, daily, 7:00-22:00, 1€/hr or 1.50€/2hr.
Railers, your best bet is to overnight in Füssen. Drivers,this region is rife with pensions and bed-and-breakfast Zimmer, especially in the neighborhoods of Hohenschwangau and Schwangau. That said, to save you from knocking on doors, I recommend you drive straight to the pension-style Gästehaus Weiher (see below), conveniently located within yodeling distance of Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein. If you prefer 4-star digs, stay at Hotel Sonne 5 km away in Füssen.
$ Gästehaus Weiher, (Hofwiesenweg 11, Hohenschwangau, tel. 08362/81161; cash only: sgl 34€, dbl 54-58€, trpl 78€). Well-kept facilities in a traditional south-Bavarian home and charming hosts, Herr and Frau Oswald (Friedrich speaks English, Paula does not), make an overnight stay here a joy. Located within easy walking distance of the castles, Gästehaus Weiher has five rooms with all the Gemütlich comforts in addition to a balcony and royal view. Note: Typically two nights minimum stay required. Reserve well in advance, 2-3 weeks if possible. GPS: N47 33.625 E10 44.650. To get there from the Hohenschwangau TI, head along Colomanstrasse and make the second right on Pfleger-Rothut-Weg then first left on Hofwiesenweg. Continue right around the bend and your digs are ahead on the left.
Camping Bannwaldsee, (tel. 08362/93000, open year round, office hours generally 8:00-12:30 & 14:30-20:00). Campers will appreciate this outdoor oasis idyllically situated on Lake Bannwald, 5 km from the castles. Apartments available. Has restaurant. GPS: N47 35.511 E10 46.380. The campground is located on the right-hand side of the Romantic Road when approaching Schwangau from the north.
"Mad" King Ludwig's Other Fantasy Castles
Note: If you plan on visiting either of these Bavarian palaces along with another, invest in one of the three Discount Passes listed above.
Schloss Linderhof, www.linderhof.de, tel. 08822/92030, closed Dec 24-25, 31 and Jan 1 otherwise daily, April thru mid-Oct 9:00-18:00, last tour 17:30—mid-Oct thru March 10:00-16:00 last tour—adult 8.50€, student 7.50€, (1€ less in winter because palace grounds are closed), youths (17yr and younger) are free. Note: To visit the interior of Linderhof you must go with a (25-min) guided tour. Reservations are not necessary. Photography is not allowed. Each admission ticket, similar to Schloss Neuschwanstein, is printed with a fixed start time but also a letter (A, B, C) directing you through the correct turnstile to meet your tour group and guide. (In peak season, 40-person groups shuffle into Linderhof every 5-10 min.) Allow 75 min for a visit, including castle tour and garden stroll. The tour covers 10 rooms and concludes through the king’s specially made secret door...into the gift shop!
Located some 45 km (27 mi) from Schloss Neuschwanstein and 12 km (7 mi) from the Christmassy, woodcarving village of Oberammergau near Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Schloss Linderhof is the only one of Ludwig’s castles he lived to see completed. In fact, the king lived here the last eight years of his life (for about two weeks of each month). Dating from 1870, Linderhof took nine years to construct and is far better described as an ostentatious mansion than a castle. Before Linderhof was converted into a Rococo masterpiece, the property existed as an unpretentious hunting lodge called Königshäuschen, or the King’s Little House, belonging to Max II, Ludwig’s father. Due to Linderhof’s isolation in the lush Bavarian hinterland, Ludwig was able to procure 143 acres of park reserve. The king commissioned Carl von Effner, a landscape specialist with experience in first cities such as Vienna and Paris, to design a network of manicured gardens and waterworks to frame the estate. Wear comfy shoes and explore its beauty, admire the expressive fountain (erupting some 70 feet into the air about every 30 min April-Sept 9:00-18:00), but dress warm Oct thru March because Linderhof sits at an elevation of 950 m (3,116 ft) and it can get bitter cold, early. I’ve been here, for example, mid-Oct with a foot of snow on the ground. Burr. Besides the palace and gardens, the next biggest on-site attraction is the Venus Grotto, which for many of you will not be worth the 7-min (mostly uphill) trek from the palace to reach its one-room water cave with mural, clamshell boat and short narrative (given regularly in German) by the resident guide.
GPS: N47 34.186 E10 57.424. Drivers, from Oberammergau follow brown signs Linderhof, 12 km. From Hohenschwangau head towards Füssen, then Reutte (Austria). Don’t go into Reutte. At Reutte Süd follow brown signs to Linderhof. The next stretch is a stunning alpine route through an evergreen forest that parallels a scenic lake (Plansee, a perfect picnic stop) reflecting the most brilliant emerald-green waters before crossing back into Bavaria and on to petite Linderhof (Ludwig often took this route in his carriage). Parking 2.50€. After visiting Linderhof, consider driving on to Oberammergau to see the famous woodcarving shops (Holzschnitzerei) and the picture-worthy houses splashed with storytelling murals. If required, there are plenty of first-rate Zimmer (bed & breakfast) in the area. Railers, (from Hohenschwangau to Linderhof is a hassle and not worth the effort), from Munich catch the train to Oberammergau (hrly, 1 change, 2hr trip) and then outside the station catch bus 9622 to Linderhof (30-min ride, 3.60€ one way, bus departures are limited but you can typically count on Mon-Fri 10:25, 11:20, 14:40, and Sat/Sun 10:35, 13:25, 14:35; with departures from Linderhof back to Oberammergau Mon-Fri 12:00, 15:15, 16:40, 18:55, and Sat/Sun 14:00, 15:05, 16:35). Or, call ahead for a taxi pick-up (tel. 08822/94294), roughly 20€ one way from the train station to Linderhof. Note: If you are not traveling on a railpass, purchase the Bayern-Ticket to cover all your train and bus travel for the day. Oberammergau’s train station is tiny, unattended, with only one track. In the adjoining plaza, picnickers will appreciate the choice of grocery stores (I prefer Tengelmann here).
Schloss Herrenchiemsee, www.herren-chiemsee.de, tel. 08051/68870, closed Dec 24-25, 31 and Jan 1 otherwise daily, April thru mid-Oct 9:00-18:00, last tour 17:00—mid-Oct thru March 9:40-16:15, last tour 15:40—price (includes 30-min palace tour and entrance into museum) adult 8€, student 7€, youths (17yr and younger) are free. Note: Because of a special exhibition on the island May 14 thru Oct 16, 2011 the price will increase to adult 9.50€, student 8.50€, youth (6+) 1€. To visit the interior of Schloss Herrenchiemsee you must go with a (30-min) guided tour. English tours depart twice per hour in summer and hourly in winter. Reservations are not necessary. Allow three hours for your visit—this includes the boat ride, castle tour and park promenade. Photography is not allowed. Once on Herreninsel, you can either walk (20 min) to the palace or (mid-April thru Oct) ride the horse-drawn carriage (15 min, 3€/adult). Fountains on the palace grounds spring to life May-Sept at the top and bottom of the hour for 15 min.
Located bang in the center of an island on Lake Chiemsee—Germany’s second principal lake, known as the Bavarian sea, some 200 km (124 mi) from Schloss Neuschwanstein and 75 km (46 mi) from Munich—Schloss Herrenchiemsee is the largest of Ludwig’s castles. As far as kings were concerned, Ludwig II regarded Louis XIV of France, the “Sun King,” as the quintessential monarch. During two trips to Paris, 1867 and 1874, Ludwig studied Louis XIV’s most ostentatious architectural achievement: the palace of Versailles.
Ludwig adored the serenity of Herreninsel, one of two islands on Lake Chiemsee. On this island, Ludwig chose to build his Bavarian Versailles, a creation he called Schloss Herrenchiemsee. The foundation stone was laid on May 21, 1878. Construction costs ballooned and Ludwig’s tribute to Versailles became his most costly project to date, pushing the Bavarian economy to the brink of bankruptcy. Indifferent to the privilege of having the royal equivalent to a limitless credit card, Ludwig demanded more gold, more candelabras, more chandeliers, more marble, and more rooms. In the fall of 1885, Ludwig resided at Schloss Herrenchiemsee for the first time, but only for nine days. By early summer of the following year, while Bavaria’s financial woes continued, Ludwig’s cabinet declared him mentally unfit to rule bringing about his death shortly thereafter. Today, thousands of tourists annually cruise the idyllic Bavarian blue waters of Lake Chiemsee to see Ludwig’s biggest and most expensive palace. (Pictured; one very cold day in winter. Herreninsel is the strip of land seen in the background and the white sheet before it is snow blanketing the frozen lake, thus people joyously walked to the palace.)
Boats Rides: Boats ferry tourists (hourly) over to the islands from Felden and Prien (off autobahn A8) as well as Gstadt (other side of lake, closest to Fraueninsel). When purchasing a boat ticket to Ludwig’s palace on Herreninsel, pay the additional 1€ to include Fraueninsel (that way you have it if you decide to go; if you buy it later it will cost 4.30€). Boats depart Prien for Herreninsel daily April-Oct on the hour 9:00-17:00 (less Nov-March), costing round trip adult 6.70€, youth 6-15yr 3.30€, family 18.40€ and taking 15 min one way; from Herreninsel to Fraueninsel takes 10 min. Be sure to study the boat schedule to neatly plan your connections. Holders of a valid Bayern-Ticket receive a 10% discount on boat fare.
The Islands: On Lake Chiemsee there are two islands, Herreninsel and Fraueninsel, both are worth visiting. Herreninsel, or Isle of Men, gets its name from a monastery that existed centuries ago on the island. Today, Ludwig’s French-inspired palace sits smack-dab in the middle of the island surrounded by a state-protected 593-acre nature reserve. 
The manicured garden matrix framing the palace extends some 37 acres. Fraueninsel, or Isle of Women, obtained its name from the existing 8th-century convent of nuns, who are known for their popular brand of Chiemsee schnapps. Other than the long-standing convent, Fraueninsel is home to a picture-book fishing village with a few shops, beer gardens, and restaurants (specializing in smoked fish from the lake). I recommend a visit here if time is on your side—add two hours to your trip. (Pictured; Fraueninsel as seen from the boat dock at Gstadt. In sharp contrast to the wintry photo above, I captured this scene of Lake Chiemsee on a warm summer’s day. The bulbous steeple rising above the right side of the island belongs to the convent. The mountains in the background are the Chiemgauer Alps, peaking at around 5,000ft. WWII Buffs: Buried on Fraueninsel (in the church cemetery, adjacent to convent) is General Alfred Jodl, former operations chief for Hitler’s armed forces (Wehrmacht). Jodl was sentenced to death by hanging at the 1946 Nürnberg trials. Note: The resort hotel featured in my adventure novel, Quest for the Bavarian Cross (which will be released mid-2011), is nestled on the southern shore of Lake Chiemsee (look for the elongated, vanilla-colored structure). Alas, the resort hotel (AFRC Chiemsee) ceased operations as a recreational facility for U.S. military servicemen and women in 2003 and to this day it is still closed.
Railers, from Munich catch the train to Prien am Chiemsee (hrly, 1-hour trip) then either hail a cab (waiting outside station, roughly 6.50€) to the boat dock, or walk (30 min), or descend through the pedestrian underpass direction Chiemseebahn to ride the historic steam train dating from 1887 (which runs hourly from 10:00 on weekends in May and daily June-Sept; ticket booth open 9:30-15:00; round trip adult 8.80€ for steam train + boat to Herreninsel, to both islands 10€). Note: Lockers (1€-2€/24hr) at Prien train station are positioned on platform 1a. Picnickers, you can find a Lidl grocery store (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00) beyond the hedgerow on the other side of the train tracks (descend through pedestrian underpass to Chiemseebahn then follow path right around).
Drivers, you have two uncomplicated options: (1) Exit the A8 autobahn at Prien am Chiemsee and head towards Prien. After about 3 km turn right on the traffic circle; your scenic country drive will conclude at the boat dock and pay parking area; (for boat departure times and prices see Boat Rides above). Although Prien harbor is quaint and affords a terrific opportunity for enthusiasts to marvel the fleet of historic ferryboats up close, I’m partial to option (2) not because of its relaxing grassy beach (Strandbad) with volleyball courts; or the dock for boats heading to/fro the islands; or the newly built Chiemsee info center (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat/Sun 10:00-15:00); or the appetizing lakeside restaurant-bar (www.badehaus-chiemsee.de); or Fritz’s bike rental shack (Fahrradverleih 5€/day) for visitors who desire to peddle around the lake; but because I lived here at Felden for five wonderful years (1998-2002)! Now you know my conviction and I hope you share it with me: Exit the A8 autobahn at Felden and follow signs Chiemsee info-center to the parking area (pay at automat, 1€/2hr or 3€/day). Boat’s depart the Felden dock for Herreninsel (to Ludwig’s castle) weekends April thru May 10 and daily May 13 thru Sept typically 10:15, 11:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00 and 16:00, costing round trip adult 7€, youth 6-15yr 3.50€, family 19.30€ and taking 25 min one way; (consider paying the additional 1€ to include Fraueninsel). Note: To see the property where I lived and worked, and the locale of my adventure novel Quest for the Bavarian Cross (which will be released mid-2011), follow the road to the gated fence at the end. The building is sadly closed and barricaded but originally it is the Rasthaus am Chiemsee dating from 1938, designed by order of Adolf Hitler. During my time here it was known as the Lake Hotel, which accommodated U.S. military servicemen and women as a resort and recreational facility until 2003. I lived in the hotel annex on the other side of the autobahn, through the underpass. Say, before hitting the road again, why don’t you drive into Bernau and have a spell at the non-smoking Café Chaos (daily 6:00-24:00, tel. 08051/970-489, Chiemseestrasse 18) where we resort employees spent many hours getting to know the locals. The café’s owner, Annette Steinberger, and staff bake and make all the goods fresh in-house, such as the bread and baguettes, sandwiches and pretzels, cakes and cookies and even the ice cream; the coffee is delivered from nearby Rosenheim. Before you leave, say “Hi” to Annette; she’s a neat gal who would love to meet you, a traveler stopping in from the other side of the world to enjoy her beloved café. To get to Café Chaos is easy, drive over the autobahn and straight through the turning circle into Bernau toward the church; midway through town on the left is the café (usually with a giant ice cream cone out front; park where you can); or (if you’re coming from the barricaded Rasthaus property) drive through the autobahn underpass then go right and continue straight.
(This page was last updated April 2011.)
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