Introduction: Munich, Germany
MUNICH
Population: 1.35 million. Country-Area code: +49-(0)89.
Elevation: 530 m (1,740 ft). Sister city: Cincinnati, Ohio. License plate: M.
Munich (München)—Germany’s third largest metropolis, after Berlin and Hamburg—is one of those appealing cities that inspire long-lasting memories and an itch for a return visit. 
Often referred to as “the village of 1 million,” Munich is the proud capital of Bavaria (Bayern). The image of full-bosomed fräuleins clad in head-turning dirndls and bonhomie beer-drinking Bavarian men sporting knee-length lederhosen, tall gray socks and a green-felt hat with a brush of animal hair pinned to its side are quite often the representational figures associated with Germany, much to the annoyance of those outside Bavaria.
As to be expected, Münchners warmly embrace their deep-rooted heritage and traditional costume which can be regularly seen (as well as heard) in beer halls, at ceremonies, festivals and special events.
With so much merriment in the air, it is no wonder BMW chose Munich as its headquarters, and that Munich was voted “the city most Germans would prefer to live in.” No doubt the locals are on to something; according to the “Mercer 2010 Quality of Living” survey, Munich was recently ranked No. 7 as the world’s most livable city. But perhaps best of all, thanks to the monks, Munich is the capital of beer!
In the 8th century, monks from a nearby monastery formed a settlement on the Isar River. From this evolved Zu den Mönchen (literally “by the monks”) and today’s modern-day German name: München. Monks are the masters of brewing beer, and Munich, a settlement of monks, developed into an intoxicating hub.
In the 12th century, Bavaria was one of several hundred satellite states within the Holy Roman Empire, or First Reich. Then-Emperor Frederick I (Barbarossa) gave the territory of Bavaria to his cousin, Henry the Lion. In 1158, Henry traveled to the settlement of monks and built a bridge (today’s Ludwigsbrücke) over the Isar River in order to tax the salt merchants heading north from the mines of Salzburg. Shortly thereafter, on June 14, the town of Munich was officially mentioned for the first time. (Note: At this time, around 1,000 people resided in Munich.)
As a result of internal quarrels, Henry fell out of favor with Barbarossa in 1180 and was consequently replaced by Otto I (Wittelsbach), the new duke of Bavaria. So begins the reign of the Wittelsbachs, rulers of the Bavarian throne for 738 years—including Germany’s most famous monarch, the “fairy-tale” king, Ludwig II. Interestingly, the House of Wittelsbach ruled 93 years longer than Europe’s most renowned royal family, the Habsburgs.
By the 13th century, Munich was booming from the salt trade, and the fourth member to wear the Bavarian crown, Ludwig der Strenge, shrewdly moved the House of Wittelsbach in 1253 to the city of monks, where he built the first royal residence, known as the Alter Hof. However, it was the reign of the next prominent Wittelsbach, Ludwig the Bavarian, that proved to be one of the most significant in Munich’s history. In 1328, Ludwig the Bavarian became emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, and since Munich was his seat of power, the eyes of Europe focused on the imperial city of monks. Ludwig brought about great change to the region, transferring the crown jewels to Munich in addition to securing market and salt rights, which meant salt had to be exclusively transported through Munich. He revamped the empire’s new capital by adding immense city walls (now replaced by the existing ring road) that could be entered through four gates (Isartor, Karlstor, Sendlingertor, Swabingertor); and Ludwig gave Munich his imperial colors, black and yellow, which to this day still decorate city streets and insignias.
Despite Munich’s red-hot economy and political importance, it remained rather small in the year 1500 with only 13,000 inhabitants compared to other cities in the kingdom, such as Nürnberg with 30,000 residents and Augsburg (the largest German city) with 50,000. Munich had neither the commerce or woodcraft industry of Nürnberg, nor the helping hand of the Fuggers (Europe’s richest family) who lived in Augsburg, but Munich did possess special skills in the trendy industry of brewing beer. On April 23, 1516, (Wittelsbach) Duke Wilhelm IV introduced the Reinheitsgebot, or Purity Decree, a law that strictly limited the ingredients in beer to barley, hops and water. The *Reinheitsgebot, i.e. the first ever food and drug law, was such a thirst-quenching success that Duke Wilhelm V, grandson of Wilhelm IV, commissioned the first court brewery in the Alter Hof in 1589. (*The function of yeast in fermentation was unknown in the 16th century, thus the Reinheitsgebot has since been amended to include yeast as a beer-making ingredient and also that all barley be malted.)
Due to the overwhelming demand for beer, the court brewery was moved in 1607 to a bigger and more accessible location, where the Hofbräuhaus (or Royal Brew House) still stands today.
During the following centuries, some insane monarchs wore the Bavarian crown, some not so insane, and some wonderfully creative. Around the turn of the 20th century, Albert Einstein wandered the streets of Munich collecting his thoughts, the Glockenspiel put on its first show, Max Friz launched BMW, and a world war struck.
With the conclusion of World War I in 1918, the House of Wittelsbach came tumbling down and the Socialist Red flag of the fleeting Räterepublik flew over the Rathaus (Town Hall). The Freikorps (Free Corps, small right-wing paramilitary groups) quashed the Reds, or Bolsheviks, in 1919, paving the way for the democratic Weimar Republic. Hyperinflation paralyzed the country, facilitating the political triumph of a crazed Nazi who saw himself as a prophet sent from the trenches of World War I to lead Germany back to its former glory. Consequently, a second world war ensued and Munich became the target of more than 70 Allied bombing raids.
After the defeat of Nazi Germany, Munich lay in ruin. Before reconstruction could begin, locals and town planners had to decide whether to build modern sleek structures and skyscrapers or to evoke medieval Munich. Thankfully, the latter won the vote and today we’re able to see the Old Town much the way it stood before the god of war struck. Thus, no building is allowed to trump the doubled-domed Frauenkirche, Munich’s central landmark.
While builders were busy piecing together heaped piles of rubble, the city saw the restoration of religious and royal traditions, a new currency, and its millionth resident in 1957.
Needless to say, Munich is truly a spectacular city with plenty of important attractions for you to see and experience, and this chapter will guide you to all of them. For starters, these GPS coordinates (N48 08.237 E11 34.520) will get you into the heart of the city, near the above-pictured lion at the Hall of the Field Marshals. (But Railers, before you do anything, consider a visit to EurAide—see Tourist Information below.)
Suggested Itinerary:
Munich, including its environs, is worth at least a three-day stay. To optimize your time, plan ahead to arrive on a Friday. This permits you to take advantage of reduced admission into the state-run museums on Sunday, while eliminating Monday from the itinerary—the only day the Dachau concentration camp memorial is closed.
Day 1: (Friday) Begin your Munich adventure at 11:00 (or 12:00) on Marienplatz to the gyrations of the Glockenspiel and my 2-hour do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town (page ???). During the course of your stay, spend an afternoon or evening in one of Munich’s traditional beer halls-gardens (page ???) to experience a true dose of Bavarian culture, cuisine and Gemütlichkeit.
Day 2: (Saturday) Tour the Dachau concentration camp memorial (page ???) and/or other sights of interest, for example BMW Welt (page ???), Olympia Park (page ???), Deutsches Museum (page ???), Schloss Nymphenburg (page ???), Andechs monastery (page ???).
Day 3: (Sunday) Culture vultures will save on Sundays in Munich, as the state-run museums offer hugely reduced admission: 1€ per adult (page ???). Consider renting a bike and making your discoveries on two wheels (page ???)?
Day 4: With extra time, plan ahead and tour the BMW factory (page ???). But note that the factory tour only departs Mon-Fri (not Sat/Sun), and with the neighboring attractions of BMW Welt and Olympia Park (page ???), you could easily spend an entire day here. Another option, use Munich as your base and visit Ludwig's fairy-tale castle, Neuschwanstein, located two hours south by the medieval village of Füssen.
Chapter Orientation: Consulates (page ???); Holidays (page ???); Church Service (page ???); subway map (page ???); Bavarian Speak (page ???); Free Munich (page ???); city map (page ???); Sights (page ???); DIY orientation tour of the city (page ???); More Sights (page ???); Museums (page ???); Other Museums (page ???); Museum-Like Churches (page ???); Best Views (page ???); Shopping (page ???); Entertainment (page ???); Beer Halls & Gardens (page ???); Headline Concerts (page ???); Events & Festivals (page ???); Good Eats (page ???); Good Sleeps (page ???); Excursions (page ???); Oktoberfest; Dachau concentration camp memorial (page ???); Hitler’s Munich, DIY tour (page ???).
Tourist Information, (www.muenchen-tourist.de, tel. 089/2339-6500). Munich has two TIs and the EurAide office. The latter office and one TI can be found in the main train station—(TI is located just outside the station’s front entrance, exit right, Mon-Sat 9:00-18:30, April-Oct till 20:00, Sun 10:00-18:00). The other TI is centrally located in the Old Town on Marienplatz (beneath Glockenspiel, Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00). Both TIs sell Munich mementos, event tickets (concerts, theater, sports), and city maps (40¢).
EurAide, (office hours [tend to vary but generally] Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 8:30-12:30, Sun 8:00-12:00). Another valuable info source is the EurAide office, located in the main train station behind the DB Reisezentrum (opposite track 20, walk straight through the Reisezentrum and out the other side go left to EurAide, next to Subway sandwich). A stop here would negate the need to visit a TI. EurAide is partnered with the German rail authority (Deutsche Bahn) and has English-speaking staff, like founder Alan Wissenberg who (without his business shirt and tie) fans of the LA rock band “X” will believe they found John Doe in his likeness (Johnny Hit and Run Paulene). Railers, take advantage of EurAide to ask any questions concerning travel by rail in Germany or Europe-wide, e.g. connections, routes, ticket purchase, reservations (including overnight seats, bunk-bed couchettes, private sleepers), and railpasses (they can even validate your pass for you). Additionally, EurAide sells city maps, the Bavaria- (discount rail) Ticket, special deals to various destinations like Rothenburg and Frankfurt, and they can book tours and accommodations.
Emergency Tel. Numbers, valid Germany-wide; Police (Polizei) = 110; Fire dept. (Feuerwehr) or general emergency = 112; Ambulance = 19222.
Main Train Station, www.bahn.de. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (Hbf) is an easy-to-navigate urban terminus. Here, eateries abound, including Subway sandwich and two fast-food Burger Kings. Internet: the Burger King one level above the station’s front entrance has free Wi-Fi. Tourist information can be found outside the front entrance (and right a few doors, Mon-Sat 9:00-18:30, April-Oct till 20:00, Sun 10:00-18:00) but you should first consider stopping by the EurAide office (see above entry under Tourist Information). Also outside and a few doors past the TI is a pharmacy (Apotheke, Mon-Fri 7:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-20:00). For train info and itinerary printouts, see the DB Service desk opposite tracks 18-19. U- and S-Bahn lines are situated on either end of the main transit area (to reach the airport, ride the S8 located by track 26, also the U1 and U2 are here. To reach the Oktoberfest, ride the U4 or U5 located beneath track 11, below Coca Cola sign). Lockers, locally Schließfächer (3€-5€/24hr, price depends on size), are positioned opposite track 26 as well as near the main entrance. The post office (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00) can be found across the street from the station’s front entrance. For car rental, see the entry on page ???. Note: If you’re lost beneath the main train station in the warren of corridors running between the U- and S-Bahn lines and looking to surface, follow the red DB symbols and you’ll discover fresh air again. To get to Rothenburg on the Romantic Road visit the EurAide office (see above entry under Tourist Information) for the latest schedules and information. Getting to Marienplatz (Mary’s Square) from the station is a cushy 20-min walk, or take the S-Bahn two stops. By foot, descend escalator below ground by front entrance of the station, trek straight across then up and into Schützenstrasse. Keep straight on this street all the way through the pedestrian zone, under the big intersection, and up to people-packed Karlsplatz (also called Stachus) with its gushing fountain. Stroll beneath Munich’s oldest city gate, Karlstor (dating from 1302), leading onto Neuhauser Strasse (the main shopping street) and eventually into Munich’s living room: Marienplatz. By train from Munich to—(note that the following train times are for reference only and may have changed; for a discounted rail ticket to the first six destinations, see Bayern-Ticket below)—Salzburg 2hr trip (hrly, direct, first train 6:38, last 23:40); Berchtesgaden 2.5-3hr trip (hrly, change in Freilassing, first train 5:50/6:38, last between 20:25 & 21:40); Füssen (Schloss Neuschwanstein) 2hr trip, trains depart Munich for Füssen :51 min past every hour but departures on the even hour (e.g. 8:51 and 10:51) are direct while departures on the odd hour (e.g. 7:51 and 9:51) require one change; Rothenburg 2.5-3.5hr trip (2/hr, 2-3 changes, last train 19:50 arrives Roth. 22:50); Augsburg 35-45 min trip (3/hr, direct, last train after midnight); Nürnberg 70-75 min trip (2/hr, direct, last train 22:55); Stuttgart 2.5hr trip (hrly, direct, last train 22:43); Frankfurt airport (Flughafen) 3.5hr trip (hrly, direct, last train 20:42).
Bayern-Ticket; Railers: The Bayern-Ticket is a terrific buy for individuals (21€) and small groups up to five persons (29€) traveling for the day within the German state of Bavaria and to/fro Salzburg (Austria) main train station. The Bayern-Ticket, or Bavaria-Ticket, is especially ideal from Munich if you’re headed to Berchtesgaden, Augsburg, Nürnberg, Rothenburg, Füssen (Schloss Neuschwanstein), or any of Ludwig's castles, which many of you will be. You can, for example, visit any of the aforelisted destinations for the day, and travel on the local trams and buses as needed, then return to Munich for the bargain price of 21€ one person or 29€ for small groups up to five persons. The Bayern-Ticket (group tariff, 29€) is also ideal for parent(s) who can use it to travel with an unlimited number of their own children aged 14 and under. What’s more, there are many discounts on attractions Bavaria-wide afforded to holders of a valid Bayern-Ticket, in which case I’ve listed these where applicable throughout this guidebook. Note: The Bayern-Ticket is valid Mon-Fri after 9:00 until 3:00 (the following morning) and the whole day Sat/Sun in 2nd-class seating on non-speed trains (like RE and RB, not ICE or EC) and on all public transportation within Bavaria (but not Salzburg) for the pocket-friendly price of 21€ one person or 29€ for small groups up to five persons. But for this price the ticket must be purchased either online (www.bahn.de, print invoice and bring it on train with your ID) or at a DB automat in the train station (automats accept all major credit cards and are multilingual). To emphasize; if the ticket is bought over the counter you will pay a 2€ surcharge (i.e. 23€ for individuals and 31€ for small groups), and even more if purchased on the train. Lastly, if you’re holding a railpass, e.g. Eurail, you may not find the Bayern-Ticket such a bargain. Weigh your pass-type and destination against the price of the Bayern-Ticket.
Subway/bus/tram: Munich’s integrated and efficient transportation authority (MVV, www.mvv-muenchen.de), offers a multitude of destinations and ticket options to choose from within their fleet of trams, buses, and subway (consisting of the U-Bahn, mostly underground, and the S-Bahn, or suburban rail that is mostly above ground). The MVV network is divided into four color-coded zones: white, green, yellow and red. The white zone, or metro area, has a wide scope and will suffice for most travelers. The green zone encompasses the next sphere of Munich, notably the Dachau concentration camp memorial and the Flugwerft aviation museum at Oberschleissheim. The yellow zone reaches Andechs monastery and two idyllic Bavarian lakes, Ammersee and Starnberger See. And, lastly, the red zone lands at the airport (Flughafen). Now that you’re familiar with each color zone, MVV has packaged them into four fare categories: Innenraum (white zone); XXL (white and green zones); Außenraum (green, yellow and red zones); Gesamtnetz (all 4 zones). The below-listed tickets cover every mode of transportation in the MVV network. Prices range according to fare categories and zones of travel. Note: All ticket types can be purchased at multilingual vending machines marked MVV-Tickets or Fahrkarten, as well as at most tobacco and newspaper shops. Stamp ticket in blue box to validate; watch locals. (Tickets purchased on-board bus/tram are pre-stamped.) Travelers riding without a valid ticket risk a 40€ fine, on the spot! Plain-clothed officials patrol trains regularly. Holders of a Eurail consecutive-day or dated Flexi/Select pass ride free on the S-Bahn (but not the U-Bahn). Don’t get upset if your vehicle (tram, bus, subway) is late; Munich rates at the top of the German list for public transportation punctuality. Lastly, note that all late-night buses are denoted with “N.” Oh, and one more thing, the warning you hear in the subway over the loudspeaker “Bitte zurückbleiben” means, “Please stand back” (from the closing doors). You may also hear “Zusteigen” meaning, “Step aboard”!
Single Ticket, (EinzelFahrkarte, press orange button marked “1”). This one-way travel ticket can be used within any one zone for up to three hours, or you can upgrade it for use within any two zones (or more) and valid four hours. Price adult: one zone 2.50€, two zones 5€, three zones 7.50€, Gesamtnetz 10€. Price youth (6-14yr), one zone 1.20€.
Short Trip, (Kurzstrecke, press orange button marked “K”). Valid for one hour up to two stops on the S- and U-Bahn, or four stops on a bus/tram. Price, 1.20€.
Day Ticket, Single, (Tageskarte). For individual use within a zone(s) from time of validation until 6 a.m. the following morning. Price: Innenraum 5.40€, XXL 7.30€, Außenraum 5.40€, Gesamtnetz 10.80€. Price youth (6-14yr), Gesamtnetz 2.60€.
Day Ticket, Partner, (Tageskarte Partner). Excellent deal, valid for up to 5 people within a zone(s) from time of validation until 6 a.m. the following morning. Price: Innenraum 9.80€, XXL 12.80€, Außenraum 9.80€, Gesamtnetz 19.60€.
3-Day Ticket, Single, (3-Tageskarte Innenraum or Gesamtnetz). For individual use within the white zone, or Innenraum, from time of validation until 6 a.m. the fourth morning. Price 13.30€, (Gesamtnetz available for 31.50€, see City Tour Card below).
3-Day Ticket, Partner, (3-Tageskarte Partner Innenraum or Gesamtnetz). Another dynamite deal, valid for up to 5 people within the white zone, or Innenraum, from time of validation until 6 a.m. the fourth morning. Price 22.80€, (Gesamtnetz available for 51.50€, see City Tour Card below).
7-Day-Ticket, (IsarCard-Wochenkarte). This prevalidated ticket is a good deal (*if used correctly) for longer stays. *Beware, ticket is valid from Monday 0:01 (one minute past midnight) until the following Monday 12:00 (noon)—meaning, if you were to buy the 7-day-ticket on a Friday, you’d only get three days use. Also, the ticket is transferable; meaning another person can use it. Price within one zone 17.60€, two zones 28.50€, three zones 39.10€, Gesamtnetz 50.30€.
City Tour Card (for one person: 1 day Innenraum 9.90€, 3 days Innenraum 19.90€, 3 days Gesamtnetz 31.50€; partner ticket valid for up to 5 people: 1 day Innenraum 16.90€, 3 days Innenraum 29.90€, 3 days Gesamtnetz 51.50€). Depending on your itinerary and group size, this discounted sightseeing-and-transportation ticket may be worthwhile. For example, attractions on the reduced-price list include the BMW museum (page ???, 3€ discount off adult price); the Tent Roof Tour at the Olympic Stadium (page ???, 10% discount); a city tour or bike rental from Radius (page ???, 20% discount); the Residenz, Treasury and Schloss Nymphenburg (pages ??? & ???, 10% discount). The ticket is sold at the TI, MVV automats, and select hotels. Pick up a brochure, or online go to www.citytourcard.com, or read the details on a MVV automat to see whether the City Tour Card works for you. Note: Stamp ticket in blue MVV box to validate; watch locals.
Munich subway map (click to open printable pdf file)
Airport, locally Flughafen (www.munich-airport.de, code MUC, tel. 089/9752-1313 for general airport information 24/7). Munich’s modern airport, Franz Josef Strauß, lies 30 km northeast of downtown Munich and is the second busiest in Germany (seventh in Europe), moving some 34 million passengers annually (compared to 51 million at Frankfurt Airport). Taxis are waiting patiently outside if you require the service (roughly 55€ to central Munich), but the most common mode of transportation is the *S-Bahn located on the lower level. For rental cars, follow signs: Mietwagon. *Note: The S-Bahn (S1 or S8) runs regularly (every 20 min) from early till late and takes about 35 minutes into the city. Purchase ticket (10€) from vending machine (Fahrkarten) and be sure to validate it (by stamping ticket in box) before hopping aboard S-Bahn. To maximize savings, consider buying the Day Ticket Single/Partner—Gesamtnetz (see above, Subway). If you’re overwhelmed by it all, stop by the info desk or flag a passing airport employee. Most everything is located in terminal 1: You can pick up a free city map (at info desk opposite check-in area Z; desk nearest to S-Bahn is open 24hr); you can find plenty of seating to stretch out; you can drop your letter at the post office (daily 7:30-21:00, near Europe Car rental counter); you can find the rental-car agencies: Hertz, Avis, Budget, Sixth, Europe Car; you can pick up curatives at the pharmacy, locally Apotheke (there’s also an Apotheke in terminal 2); and you can go grocery shopping at Edeka (daily 6:30-22:00, note that Edeka stocks a deep selection of wine together with a respectable assortment of German beers; a considerate gift either coming or going). Separating terminal 1 from the smaller terminal 2 is a vast outdoor plaza containing a fast-food Burger King and a sit-down Bavarian-style restaurant with intoxicating beer garden. Drivers (after exiting the 92 autobahn) there is a 24-hour gas station (left side) as you approach Munich airport, which is perfect if you’re returning a rental car and need to fill up first.
Drivers/Parking: For street parking pay at nearby automat and leave ticket on dashboard of your car. To park downtown generally costs 50¢/12 min (max 1-2hr), Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00 (by main train station 6:00-22:00), otherwise free. The farther you are from the center, the cheaper it is, typically 20¢/12 min (no max). Automats do not give change. Parking garages(denoted by blue-and-white “P” signs) are abundantly located throughout the city, costing roughly 3€ for the first hour and 2€ for every hour thereafter. To reach downtown, enter these GPS coordinates: N48 08.237 E11 34.520. To avoid driving into the city and contending with gung-ho Münchners who race between red lights, look for the P+R (Park+Ride) signs posted on all autobahns (i.e. A: 8, 9, 92, 94, 95, 96 and the 99) approaching Munich. P+Rs are (normally free) parking lots positioned adjacent to a subway line so visitors can conveniently park then ride public transportation downtown.
Car Rental: When considering car rental you have several options, especially if you plan ahead from home. (My preference is Kemwel, which I’ve used annually for the last decade.) In Munich, you can comparison shop a handful of car rental agencies upstairs in the main train station (walk through the entrance marked Mietwagenzentrum to find Avis, Hertz, Europcar, Sixth, etc). But note that for the convenience, to rent a vehicle at the train station or airport adds about 20% to the cost of the rental. To avoid this sizeable surcharge, plan to pick up your vehicle from another office in the city. Consider an office near the station that you can walk to, or that is only a short ride away via the U-/S-Bahn. Or, maybe you prefer to ride the subway farther afield to an office in the ’burbs free of city traffic and closer to your eventual destination?
Share Ride, locally Mitfahrzentrale,isa concept matching passengers with drivers, and vice versa. If you’re not traveling with a railpass, Mitfahrzentrale is the cheapest and most social option of getting from one city to another. There is one share ride office in Munich, located at Lämerstrasse 6 (exit main train station on the Arnulfstrasse side and cross into Pfefferstrasse, go straight then left on Hirtenstrasse and it’s a short distance ahead on the right), tel. 089/19440, daily 8:00-19:00, GPS: N48 08.527 E11 33.518. Approximate cost per passenger, for example, from Munich to Frankfurt 25€, Berlin 33€, Amsterdam 44€. Note: If you have a working knowledge of German, first refer to www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de for an opportunity to contact the driver directly, i.e. cutting out the middleman for an even cheaper “share ride.”
Internet: There are a handful of call-shop cafés near the main train station offering inexpensive Internet (roughly 1.50€/hr) but you can slash that deal in half by walking a few minutes from the station (exit front of station, go left, cross traffic lights and tram tracks) into Dachauer Strasse to the Web café at No. 2 (1€/hr, has Skype, daily 9:30-23:00) or onward to the next block and cafés at No. 16 or 22 (.80¢/hr, both have Skype & Web cams, daily 9:00-24:00). Combine your trip here with a tasty Asian dish (Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00) at the reasonably priced Thai street grill Lemon-Blatt at No. 21 (charging around 4.70€ per plate) next to the Hotel ibis; (or taste-test its Asian competitor across the street). Free Wi-Fi can be had at the Burger King in the main train station (by station’s front entrance) and also at Hugendubel (Munich’s biggest bookstore) on Marienplatz.
Post Office: A post office (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00) can be found across the street from the main train station’s front entrance. Another P.O. (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:30, Sat 9:30-12:30, *philatelic counter open till closing) is located at Sparkassenstrasse 17, one block from the Hofbräuhaus. *Stamp collectors can purchase German stamps (up to 18 months of their release date) at the Philatelie counter.
Grocery Stores: A popular downtown choice is the Rewe grocery store at Tal 13 (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00, corner of Hochbrückenstrasse, nearly opposite Burger King, GPS: N48 08.165 E11 34.750), a short walk east of Marienplatz. A second Rewe (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00) is located off Theatinerstrasse in the Fünf Höfe shopping center, 2-min walk north of Marienplatz. Closer to the main train station you’ll find a Tengelmann supermarket (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00) in the shopping mall beneath Karlsplatz; (the most direct route to Tengelmann is via the escalator descending to the subway in the middle of the boulevard opposite the “ReSales” store at Sonnenstrasse 2).
Bike Rental: Munich is about as bike-friendly as a city can be, having its own network of traffic lanes, signs and signals. Conveniently located opposite track (Gleis) 32 in the main train station, Radius tours and bike rental (www.radiusmunich.com) offer a wide range of bicycles for you to choose from, in addition to walking tours of the city, guided bike tours, beer and food tours, water rafting (on the Isar river), as well as day trips to Salzburg, Nürnberg and to King Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle—Neuschwanstein. Note: 20% discount on Radius products (tours and bike rental) with valid City Tour Card. Radius bike rental—3€/hr, 14.50€/day, 17€/24hr, 25€/48hr, 54€/week, but show this guide and receive 10% off the aforesaid bike-rental prices—is open mid-March thru Oct, daily, 9:30-18:00, tel. 089/596-113. Must have ID and 50€ (cash/CC) for bike-rental deposit. Suggestion: For a blissful ride, pedal along the Isar river and through the English Garden (page ???). Pack a picnic. To extend your outing, cycle through the Theresienwiese (festival grounds where Oktoberfest is held) on the way to Schloss Nymphenburg (page ???). To assist your Tour de Munich, staff at Radius can map your route. Just ask!
City Tours:
Radius tours—www.radiusmunich.com, tel. 089/5502-9374, located opposite track 32 in the main train station—run year round, daily April thru mid-Oct, less mid-Oct thru March. Click, call or stop by the friendly Radius office for details, they have many tours to choose from, such as Hitler & the Third Reich walking tour (most every day, approx. 2.5hr, adult 12€, student 10€); Dachau concentration camp memorial tour (Tue-Sun, rail + walk, approx. 5hr, adult 21€, student 18€); King Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle tour (departing most every day at 9:30, rail + walk + Neuschwanstein castle tour, approx. 9hr, adult 37€ with rail pass or 44€ without, student 33€/40€); and “Priceless Munich,” a daily 2-hour orientation tour of the Bavarian capital that you pay only what you think the tour is worth (for more info, see Free Munich on page ???).
Segway tours, (www.seg-tour-munich.de, mobile 0177-576-7770, reserve in advance, minimum 2 persons required for tour to go, meet beneath the Old Town Hall tower on Marienplatz). Feet need a rest? Trudged miles through European cities and towns? Here’s your chance to tour a large swathe of Munich (about 12km) hassle-free on a modern Segway while turning heads en route. Your professional guide will lead the way and show you the sites, all you have to do is have *75€ (VC, MC, AE okay), a valid driver’s license, three hours for the tour, and a body weight of between 100-260 lbs (45-117 kg). *City Tour Card holders pay 65€.
Consulates,
USA: (http://munich.usconsulate.gov, email: ConsMunich@state.gov) *Königinstrasse 5 (southern end of English Garden, left side), tel. 089/288-8575 (line open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:30), visitation by appointment only Mon-Fri 13:00-16:00 (i.e. contact consulate in advance to set up appointment time), after hours emergencies call 089/28880 and ask for the duty officer. *From the main train station, or Hauptbahnhof, bus 100 stops at Königinstrasse (bus departs from the north side of the station every 10 min throughout the day).
Canada: (www.canada.de, email: munic@international.gc.ca) Tal 29, 5-min stroll east of Marienplatz, tel. 089/219-9570, Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00, and by appointment 14:00-16:00. Emergency 24hr (toll-free) number for Canadians only, 00-800-2326-6831.
UK: (www.ukingermany.fco.gov.uk, email: info.munich@fco.gov.uk) Möhlstrasse 5 (ride subway U4 to Prinzregentenplatz then 10-min walk), tel. 089/211-090, Mon-Thur 8:30-12:00 & 13:00-17:00, Fri 8:30-12:00 & 13:00-15:30.
Australia: No office in Munich; refer to chapters Berlin or Frankfurt.
SIGHTS
DO-IT-YOURSELF MUNICH TOUR
The remainder of this guide will be completed, fully updated for 2012, and available for your travel consumption by March 31.
(This page was last updated August 2011.)