Munich, Germany
Oktoberfest: Beer Tents
OKTOBERFEST,
Everything You Need To Know
Oktoberfest 2012: September 22 (Sat) thru October 7 (Sun).
Be a part of the Oktoberfest in Munich this year when the world's largest folk festival celebrates its 202nd birthday! You're welcome to come with me on tour or use the information I've penned below for you to do it yourself. (But I'll tell you now, you'll be hard-pressed to do it cheaper than what I offer on my tour.)
Watch my Oktoberfest 2011 video here.
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(See Comments at the bottom of the page and feel free to add one of your own!)
The Beer Tents
Within the city limits of Munich are six breweries: Augustiner, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu, Spaten, Paulaner, and Hacker-Pschorr. And within the Oktoberfest fairgrounds are 14 tents (listed below), each licensed to sell beer for only one of the aforesaid breweries. The word “tent” (Zelt in German), however, is wildly misleading since these massive structures are actually well-constructed beer-drinking halls that hold upwards of 7,000 people (10,000 in total if you include the beer garden). With so many tents to choose from, finding the right one can be an adventure, thus I’ve listed all 14 in order of preference. But note, just because a tent is low on my list doesn’t mean it’s not worthy of your time. On the contrary, each tent has its own special flair, atmosphere and theme. Read through the following entries to see which tent is most appealing. If possible, mosey into a few to get an even better feel of what’s right for you. (Note: For more pertinent info regarding the beer tents be sure to read the Facts and Tips page.)
1) Fischer Vroni, (serving Augustiner beer to 2,730 persons inside and 700 outside in the garden, www.fischer-vroni.de, office staffed Wed and Fri mornings 9:00-12:00).
Fischer Vroni a small tent with big cheer serving Augustiner beer, is usually where you’ll find me. (For more on Augustiner beer, see entry No. 4 below.) Besides beer tapped fresh from wooden kegs, Fischer Vroni is wildly popular for its smoked fish, in particular Steckerlfisch, meaning skewered fish, or “fish-on-a-stick,” like mackerel (Makrele) and mountain trout (Saibling), seen slowly cooking over an open fire-pit outside the tent’s south entrance (pictured). Pictured above is Maria, my favorite Fest waitress, serving another round of Oktoberfest cheer at Fischer Vroni. I couldn’t resist putting her welcoming smile at the forefront of this beer-tent guide. Prost! To get there, Fischer Vroni is positioned at the north end of the fairgrounds, next to the Theresienwiese subway station (U4, U5).
2) Schützen Festzelt, (seating more than 5,000 of us and serving Löwenbräu beer, www.schuetzen-festhalle.de, fax. 089/2318-1244).
The
Schützen Festzelt parked at the foot of Lady Bavaria is heavy on youthful dirndl-donning gals and lederhosen-clad guys flirting between oompah-pah hits. If you can’t get into the main hall because it’s full, don’t fret: the outdoor beer garden is just as spirited. (The upper part of the Schützen Festzelt is pictured at the top left of this page, directly below the Harriman Travel Books logo.)
3) Hacker Festzelt, (serving Hacker-Pschorr beer to 6,900 cheery customers inside and 2,400 outside in the garden, www.hacker-festzelt.de, fax. 08170/7385).
Of all the tents, I think the Hacker Festzelt is the most striking with its muraled walls depicting Munich in centuries past under a dreamy blue sky with puffy white clouds and the tent’s famed banner touting its signature slogan: Himmel der Bayern (meaning Hacker-Pschorr beer is ‘the true heaven of Bavaria’). German television networks and professional photographers regularly choose the interior of this tent as their Oktoberfest backdrop, typically filming from the upstairs VIP balcony down onto the sea of costumed locals and tipsy tourists. Smack dab in the middle of it all, the brass band “Kirchdorfer” trumpets traditional tunes on a revolving stage from noon till night except from 19:00-20:45 when the “Cagey Strings” steal the floor with their rock ’n’ roll music. Note: Here at the Hacker Festzelt the Mittagswiesn (see Tip No. 4 on the Facts and Tips page) concludes at 14:00, not 15:00. To get there, the Hacker Festzelt is positioned in the middle of beer-tent boulevard, west side, directly opposite the Augustiner Festhalle and sandwiched between the Hofbräu and Schottenhamel tents.
4) Augustiner-Bräu, serving Augustiner beer to 6,000 enthusiasts inside and 2,500 outside in the garden (www.augustinerbraeu.de, fax. 089/260-5379). To many Münchners beer is an art form, to others it is part of daily life, and to some it is a religion, literally. Founded by Augustinian monks in 1328, Augustiner Bräu is Munich’s oldest brewery and it produces (arguably) the city’s finest Helles, which is still tapped fresh from wooden kegs. That’s right, while all the other breweries use big-rig tankers to pump in their brew, the expertise of the coopers, or barrel makers, is still an esteemed craft at Augustiner (this includes the Augustiner affiliated Fischer Vroni tent above at No. 1). Hover around the service area for a short while and watch the kegmeister and his brawny helpers at work, then do that at another tent (where you’ll find a bartender pouring beer from what appears to be a wooden keg but really a facade covering a large multi-liter vat). To get there, the Augustiner Festhalle is positioned in the middle of beer-tent boulevard, east side, directly opposite the Hacker Festzelt and sandwiched between the Ochsenbraterei and Pschorr Bräurosl tents.
5) The Hofbräu tent is by far, I believe, the wildest of the bunch; (www.hb-festzelt.de, management accepts table reservations by fax 089/448-3587 as well as email: reservierung@hb-festzelt.de). And with its 7,020-person capacity inside and 3,020 outside in the beer garden, Hofbräu is the largest of the Oktoberfest tents, serving some 550,000 liters of Hofbräu beer during the 16-day festival (that’s on average 34,375 liters per day sold). Stoked by rivers of beer and the keen vacationers who consume it, Hofbräu owes much of its bubbly atmosphere to its youthful gaggles of Brits, Yanks, Dutch, Italians, Kiwis and heaps of Aussies, many of whom enthusiastically sport tall Bavarian beer-keg hats and blinking beer pins as if they were keepsakes for the ages (or until they’re turned into Lost & Found by night’s end). Akin to its hugely famous sibling the Hofbräuhaus, the Hofbräu tent is a barrel of laughs, thus I’ve listed it at No. 5. Another significant reason, Hofbräu is the easiest tent to get a beer. While at the other tents you must be seated to order, which can be difficult if all the tables are full, at Hofbräu the central area is standing-room only and therefore a breeze to get booze (providing the tent isn’t full and you can get in). Within Hofbräu’s roomy tent most anything goes: tomfoolery, debauchery, bad singing. I hope when I’m in my golden years I’m still able to hang with this “Country Roads” crowd. To get there, the Hofbräu tent is positioned in the middle of beer-tent boulevard, west side, opposite the Ochsenbraterei tent and sandwiched between the Hacker Festzelt and Armbrustschützenzelt.
6) Löwenbräu, (serving Löwenbräu beer to 5,700 parched patrons inside and 2,800 outside in the garden, www.loewenbraeu.de, fax. 089/470-5848). 
It’s hard to miss the suds-soaked Löwenbräu tent nestling at the south end of beer-tent boulevard in the shadow of a 37-meter-high (121 ft) tower crowned by Löwenbräu’s trademark lion, easily seen from across the fairgrounds. But often more alluring to thirsty travelers is the giant beer-drinking lion that belches, err…roars, every few minutes above the tent’s main entrance. Italians especially seem to heed the call of the wild, trying famously—albeit in vain—to keep pace with their Bavarian table mates. Bedecked in the fashionable blue-and-white colors of the Bavarian flag, the Löwenbräu tent is rocked by the house band “Heldensteiner” who play beneath a roof fitted with more than 16,000 lights that vividly highlight the streams of trimmings and beaming faces.
7) Ochsenbraterei, (serving Spaten beer to 6,000 of us inside and 1,600 outside in the garden, www.ochsenbraterei.de, fax. 089/3838-7340).
The Ochsenbraterei is the ox-roasting tent. Many visitors only come to the Oktoberfest to quaff beer but in this tent a sit-down meal is also a delicious experience. Started by a butcher, the Ochsenbraterei has been a staple of choice meat on the fairgrounds since 1881. It’s not hard to imagine way back then the spectacle it was for passersby to see clouds of smoke billowing above an entire ox turning on a spit. Crowds gathered around, many bought a beer and savored the meat. Year after year the crowds got bigger, and more oxen were cooked. Today, the oxen are roasted on a modern revolving spit and—get this—the name and weight of each ox is mounted adjacent. (When I was there, Robert the ox weighed 11 Zentner; with one Zentner equal to 50 kilograms, Robert weighed 550 kgs, or 1212 lbs.) Last year, 100 oxen were roasted (about seven per day), thus the menu offers several combinations of ox specialties, from loin to filet, goulash to sandwich (locally Semmel), boiled to roasted. (A slice of juicy ox roast doused in red wine sauce and a side of potato salad goes for 13.90€.) Although the menu is heavy on meat dishes, there is consideration for vegetarians with entrées like fresh mushrooms in cream sauce and the seasoned vegetable platter. Bavarian cuisine aside, the Ochsenbraterei is the workplace of Anita Schwarz, the women’s world record holder for most beer steins carried; (for more on Anita’s record, see Fact No. 18 on the Facts and Tips page). To get there, the Ochsenbraterei is marked by a mechanical ox rotisserie mounted above its front entrance, located at the north end of the fairgrounds, next to Fischer Vroni (tent No. 1 on this list) and the Theresienwiese subway station (U4, U5).
8) Pschorr Bräurosl, (seating 6,200 of us inside and 2,200 outside in the beer garden, www.braeurosl.de, fax. 089/8955-6356).
Another traditional tent, having been at the Oktoberfest serving Hacker-Pschorr beer since 1901 and run by the same Heide family since 1936, the Pschorr Bräurosl treats its liquored patrons to two entertaining brass bands and a fairgrounds first, a yodeler (Carolin Weidner), who goes by the name Bräurosl in honor of the original brewery owner’s daughter, Rosi Pschorr. Bräurosl yodels twice daily for about 15 minutes each performance (roughly Mon-Fri 16:00 & 18:00, Sat/Sun 14:00 & 17:00). To get there, the Pschorr Bräurosl is positioned near the south end of beer-tent boulevard, east side, directly opposite the Schottenhamel tent and sandwiched between the Löwenbräu and Augustiner tents.
9) Schottenhamel, (serving Spaten beer, fax. 089/5446-9319, www.festzelt.schottenhamel.de).
The Schottenhamel tent is the second largest on the block and the oldest, since 1867. Back then, not more than 50 farmers could squeeze into the “little wooden barn.” Today, Schottenhamel seats 6,000 of us inside and 4,000 outside in the beer garden, (only the Hofbräu tent is larger). Among the masses, Schottenhamel is increasingly popular with Munich’s under 21s. And if you don’t already know, it is in this tent that at the stroke of 12 noon the Bürgermeister, or mayor of Munich, wallops the very first keg of Oktoberfest beer with a wooden mallet and, when the strike is successful, he proclaims “O’zapft is!” (It’s tapped!) At that moment, twelve cannon volleys ring out across the fairgrounds signaling the start of Oktoberfest to the other tents and that beer can be served. Yeehaw! To get there, Schottenhamel is positioned near the south end of beer-tent boulevard, west side, directly opposite the Pschorr Bräurosl and sandwiched between the Hacker Festzelt and Paulaner tent. Note: Behind the Schottenhamel tent is the command center for police, medical personnel (first aid), and Lost & Found.
10) Armbrustschützenzelt, (serving Paulaner beer to 5,830 of us inside and 1,620 outside in the garden, www.armbrustschuetzenzelt.de, fax. 089/2370-3705).
A mouthful of taste and tradition can be had in the Armbrustschützenzelt not only via its flavorsome food and beer but also in its name, meaning ‘Tent of the Crossbow Shooters.’ Since 1895 the Bavarian crossbow shooting guild has held court here in this hunting-themed tent adorned by wild boar heads and deer antlers. The tent’s farmhouse-style facade features the guild’s heraldic double-headed eagle and murals of crossbowmen. To get there, the Armbrustschützenzelt is located at the north end of the fairgrounds, west side, opposite Fischer Vroni (tent No. 1 on this list) and a beer toss from the Theresienwiese subway station (U4, U5).
11) Paulaner Winzerer Fähnd’l, (serving Paulaner beer to 6,000 of us inside and 2,400 outside in the garden, www.winzerer-faehndl.de, fax 089/6217-1919).
The Paulaner Winzerer Fähnd’l is big brother to the above-listed Armbrustschützenzelt but without the crossbows and antlered décor. A yellow 100-foot-tall tower crested by a 20-foot revolving beer stein marks the front entrance of Paulaner’s atmospheric tent that frequently attracts prominent personalities and German celebrities, including players of the storied soccer team Bayern-München as well as their faithful fans. To get there, the Paulaner Festhalle is located at the south end of beer-tent boulevard, directly opposite Löwenbräu’s trademark lion.
12) Käfer’s Wies’n Schänke, (www.feinkost-kaefer.de, fax 089/416-8880).
The smallest and most exclusive tent on the block is Käfer’s Wies’n Schänke, serving Paulaner beer to 1,160 well-to-do types inside and 1,900 outside in the garden late into the night (last call 00:15, open till 01:00)! The cuisine here is delectable, savored by gourmets and anyone with taste. Michael Käfer has come a long way since his trial run at the 1971 Oktoberfest when his beer and snack stand had seating for a mere 40 desperadoes. Today Michael manages multiple upmarket Käfer restaurants and cafés across Germany, bistros and delicatessens, a catering division and you may already be familiar with his expedient and exceptional Roof Garden restaurant at the Reichstag in Berlin. Käfer’s success model is Quality from Passion (Qualität aus Leidenschaft), which has earned him millions in cash, a truckload of admiration, and friendships with all the top celebrities in Europe, many of whom come here to party and indulge at Käfer’s Wies’n Schänke. With less architectural limitations as the bigger tents, Käfer’s marquee is cozy and charming, resembling a traditional Alpine chalet with its quaint wooden facade accented by rich flower boxes and countrified décor inside. Many appreciate the Wies’n Schänke most after the big beer tents have closed in the evening and little Käfer’s is still pouring the amber nectar. To get there, Käfer’s Wies’n Schänke is located at the foot of Lady Bavaria, across from the Schützen Festzelt.
13) Weinzelt, (seating 2,000 of us inside and out, www.weinzelt.com, management accepts table reservations by fax 089/2424-3881 as well as email: weinzelt@kuffler.de).
News flash…The largest beer festival in the world has a wine tent. No kidding! It’s called the Weinzelt, small and sophisticated, traditionally decorated with wood-carved booths, good music and a petite dance floor. Handsome wait staff serve 25 expensive wines and champagne. A glass of wine, for example, will set you back around 10€, a bottle 30-80€, champagne from 33€ per 750 ml bottle to the gigantic 15-liter Deutz Brut for a pocket-friendly 3,300€ (that’s 220€ per liter). Yikes! The only beer sold here is Paulaner Weissbier, or wheat beer, for 6.50€ per half-liter glass but that’s only until 21:00 when the sale of beer is ceased for the evening. Double yikes!! To get there, the wine tent is fairly easy to spot with its huge signage “Nymphenburg Sekt” cresting the Weinzelt located at the south end of beer-tent boulevard, across the way from Löwenbräu and its lion-topped tower.
14) Hippodrom, (serving Spaten beer to 3,300 persons inside and 1,000 outside in the garden, www.hippodrom-oktoberfest.de, management accepts table reservations by fax 089/295-442 as well as email: reservation@hippodrom-oktoberfest.de).
The circus-like Hippodrom features a glaring-red facade with swirling gold trim that could either be considered endearing or an eyesore. If I didn’t know any better, I’d believe this ostentatious tent was secretly designed by Ludwig II’s personal architect as a royal stable for the king’s prized horses and somehow the “Wide-load” truck transporting the structure took a wrong turn on the way to Neuschwanstein and parked here instead. Dating from 1902 on the fairgrounds, the Hippodrom really does have an equestrian history steeped in show horses and riding, thus explains the carousel ponies suspended above the main festival hall, the stallions cresting the front entrance, and the horsy motifs throughout. Unless you’re invited, a horse lover, or thirsting the champagne poured at the Happy Hippo Bar on the first floor, I cannot see you in a kitschy venue like this with so many authentic Oktoberfest tents just meters away. To get there, the Hippodrom is located at the north end of beer-tent boulevard, across from Fischer Vroni and the Theresienwiese subway station (U4, U5).
Click here to go to the next page: Getting There
Click here for the Introduction
Click here for Facts & Tips
(This page was last updated October 2011)
COMMENTS
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