Introduction: Rothenburg, Germany
ROTHENBURG ob der Tauber
Population: 11,000. Elevation: 425 m (1,400 ft). Country-Area code: +49-(0)9861.
License plate: AN (short for Ansbach, the district to which Rothenburg belongs).
As far as German fortress towns are concerned, Rothenburg ob der Tauber (“above the Tauber River”) is the proverbial jewel in the crown. With more than 2 million visitors annually, tourism is the lifeblood of the economy. Easily seen on foot, you’ll cherish this medieval gem.
In 1142, (Hohenstaufen) King Konrad III built a castle (where the Castle Garden is today) upon the bluff overlooking the Tauber River. This in turn attracted settlers who sought the protection of a fortification. A neighborhood developed around the castle, which flourished over the next century. In 1274, (Habsburg) King Rudolf I declared the new community of Rothenburg a free imperial city, or a state within a state. By the year 1400, Rothenburg had more than 6,000 inhabitants, qualifying it as one of the largest cities in the kingdom.
During the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48), Protestant Rothenburg was plundered several times by the Imperial Catholic army. From the economic downturn of incessant war and disease, Rothenburg spiraled into a state of destitution. The 18th century came and went with no reprieve. However, Rothenburg in the late 19th century, “preserved by poverty,” was resurrected when it came under the spotlight for its old-world charm, becoming a haven for artists. One such artist, Adam Hörber, a playwright, was determined to amend the town’s history to ensure a happy ending for all. Thus in 1881 he scripted a stage play, “der Meistertrunk,” to indulge the mass appeal of medieval romanticism, the theme of the Market Square clock tower (which you will learn more about in the opening of my DIY orientation tour of the Old Town).
During the next century the god of war once again reared its ugly head upon Rothenburg when on March 31, 1945—due to a group of diehard Nazi soldiers who refused to surrender—16 Allied aircraft flew overhead and reduced 45% of the town to rubble. 
The townsfolk subsequently rebuilt what falling bombs had destroyed and today there couldn’t be a more popular medieval hotspot in Germany than Rothenburg ob der Tauber, deserving of any itinerary to Europe. An enjoyable place to visit and explore, a requisite for young and old alike. After the myriad tour buses filled with daytrippers have departed, couples (i.e. you and your significant other) will appreciate the town’s emptiness in the evening; the quintessential storybook setting for a romantic hand-in-hand stroll along crooked lanes under a moonlit sky.
When considering your trip, note that Rothenburg is busiest on weekends May through October, and all of December on account of its beloved Christmas market.
(The updated 2012 guide will soon be released in February)
Download this colorful Rothenburg destination guide (including DIY Old Town tour) onto your home computer, laptop, or iPad for a nominal US$1.95 (pdf file format, 4 mb, 10 pages, 1 map).
PayPal
Note: This DIY destination guide will be available for download February 2012.
Go to the Harriman Travel Books Store for more do-it-yourself destination guides.
(See Comments at the bottom of the page and feel free to add one of your own!)
Suggested Itinerary: Rothenburg is worth a two-day stay. Divide your time like so,
Day 1: Grab your camera and head over to Market Square (Marktplatz) to begin my do-it-yourself orientation tour of the Old Town center. Afterwards, walk a portion of the medieval wall, or all of it. Visit the Criminal Museum and face the torture. Pop your head into Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas store, even if you’re not a shopper. In the evening, gravitate back to Market Square by 20:00 for the Night Watchman’s tour. For dinner, choose the Altfränkische Weinstube. Conclude your history-packed day in Hell for a nightcap. (Note that in my DIY Old Town tour I walk you by the Criminal Museum, Käthe Wohlfahrt’s and Hell.) Note: Try to time your visit to Rothenburg on a Wednesday; you will have more opportunities for your choice of accommodations and you can experience the English Conversation Club at the Altfränkische Weinstube. Opinion: The tantalizing snowballs (Schneebälle) in town filling pastry-shop windows are dry and rather tasteless. Save your hard-earned cash or opt for a sweet alternative: I like the humble Mohnschnecke (glazed poppy-seed roll; Mohn is the “poppy” and schnecke is the twirling “snail”), or throw down a sugar-dusted Krapfen (jelly donut), or for more money try a slice of cheese cake, locally Käse Kuchen (made from quark). If you can’t resist a snowball, split one with a friend or buy the mini ball. But note this; if you were to shop where the locals do outside the town walls you would not find any snowballs for sale at their bakeries.
Day 2: Visit sights, attractions that you did not have time for on Day 1.
Tourist Information, (www.rothenburg.de, tel. 09861/404-800, May-Oct Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat/Sun 10:00-17:00—and Nov-April Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-13:00) is located in the heart of town on Market Square (Marktplatz), is well stocked with English literature (on wall rack right of counter), and even has free Internet (one terminal). Pick up the free, foldout “Map & Guide” brochure, containing need-to-know info, history and a town map. If you don’t make it to the TI, these same (or similar) maps are readily available around town, including at your accommodations. In the passage outside the TI visitors seeking accommodations can access the after-hours hotel info board and town map listing room vacancies with free phone connection. Note that the TI sponsors a daily 90-min English walking tour of the Old Town (7€/person, meet at 14:00 on Market Square, April-Oct & Dec 1 thru Dec 23).
Emergency Tel. Numbers, valid Germany-wide; Police (Polizei) = 110; Fire dept. (Feuerwehr) or general emergency = 112; Ambulance = 19222.
Railers, www.bahn.de, (transfer necessary in Steinach). Rothenburg’s petite rail station is only linked to the nearby town of Steinach (14-min trip), where you transfer. Hourly trains depart Rothenburg for Steinach starting around 6:05 (a.m.) and the last one at 20:05. The last train to depart Steinach for Rothenburg is about 22:35; don’t arrive in Steinach after that. If you do, walk across the street from Steinach’s station to Gasthof Sämann and ask if they could kindly call you a taxi (taxi Ebert, 09861/7227). From Rothenburg’s train station to the town center (Market Square) is an easy 15-min walk, or taxis at the ready will motor you in for around 6€. By foot, exit front of station and go left—at the forward traffic light turn right (Ansbacher Strasse) following the brown Altstadt sign. Continue straight some 300 meters (en route you’ll pass turnoff for coin laundry). Go through the medieval town gate (Rödertor) leading onto the cobbled streets Rödergasse and Hafengasse straight to Market Square. Once here, go right to find the TI (inside pointy building with clock at top of square). Note: At the station there are lockers (1€-2€/24hr) and the toilets are located just outside (behind glass-encased eatery). In the shopping mall across from the station is a post office (Mon-Fri 9:30-17:00, Sat 9:30-12:00) as well as a Kaufland (Walmart-type) supermarket (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00). To reach the mall, exit front of station and go right some 40 meters, then go left to its main entrance.
Drivers/Parking: 
Don’t attempt to cruise through town; its narrow lanes packed with lollygagging tourists are enough to convert any sane driver into a trigger-happy motorist! Overnighters, drive straight to your digs via “Spitaltor” (GPS: N49 22.231 E10 10.866) and have reception show you where to park (after unloading). Daytrippers, park (1€/hr, 5€/day, daily 8:00-18:00) in one of the lots that parallel the outer periphery of the town wall and walk in. Note: If you plan on driving within the Old Town, pay attention to the two-way arrows signposted at the narrow, medieval gates indicating dual passage. If the red arrow is pointing in the direction you want to travel, you must give the right-of-way. Just sit tight until the other side is clear of approaching vehicles. If it’s the opposite, and the black (or white) arrow is pointing in the direction you want to travel, you have the right-of-way and the cars on the other side will stop for you. Simply put, red = yield.
Internet: Begin your quest for the Web at the TI, where you can surf for free (15-min courtesy limit). If there’s a line to use their one terminal, staff can point you to the nearest access point. For example, there’s the ’Net café Interplay (daily 8:00-01:00, 3€/hr) located on Milchmarkt, lane running away from the picturesque Markus Tower.
The post office (Mon-Fri 9:30-17:00, Sat 9:30-12:00) is located across from the train station in the shopping mall and another can be found within the Old Town at Rödergasse 11 (inside shop, Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-12:00).
A coin laundry(Wäscherei, Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-14:00, 5.50€/load, i.e. wash, dry, detergent) is located at Johannitergasse 9, residential lane off Ansbacher Strasse, halfway between the train station and town gate (Rödertor), 10-min walk from Market Square. Klaus, the owner since 1981, is usually around and will help get you started.
At Drogerie Reingruber (Georgengasse 5, tel. 09861/94930, tax-free shopping Mon-Fri 8:00-18:30, Sat 8:00-14:00, all major CCs accepted) you'll find cameras for sale, camera batteries, SD memory cards, toiletries, perfumes, baby items, and many other things. To get there, pass the TI on your left, make the next right on Georgengasse and the Drogerie is second on the left.
DO-IT-YOURSELF ROTHENBURG TOUR
Market Square to Hell—40 min
NOTE: The do-it-yourself Rothenburg tour is included in the guide for sale here.
I hand-drew the following map to give you a better idea of locating the access points to climb the wall, the proximity of the train station to Market Square, and in which medieval gate Drivers should use (Spitaltor) to enter the cobbled antiquity of Rothenburg.
More Sights
St. Jakob’s Church, or Jakobskirche, (GPS: N49 22.675 E10 10.684, adult 2€, student 50¢, youth11yr and younger are free, audio guide 2€, April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:00-17:15, Sun 10:45-17:15—Nov and Jan-March 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-16:00—and Dec Mon-Sat 10:00-16:45, Sun 10:45-16:45). This enormous twin-towered structure belonging to the Lutheran faith is Rothenburg’s principal church, built from 1311 to 1471. In medieval times St. Jakob’s became a place of pilgrimage, as it claimed to have a drop of Christ’s blood in crystallized form. The blood (really wine) was set in a golden crucifix and mounted on the Altar of the Holy Blood (Heilig Blut Altar), an enormous altar meticulously carved out of wood (1499-1504) to provide a sacred seat for viewing the holy relic. The altar, crafted by Würzburg artist Tilman Riemenschneider, is arguably Germany’s most exquisite wood carving, which depicts such biblical scenes as Jesus on the Mount of Olives, his entry into Jerusalem, and the Last Supper. You can see the altar on the first floor (one level up) via a flight of stairs at the back of the church. After paying, ask cashier for the free “Short Guide” church-info pamphlet or rent the audio guide. Take note of the 5,000-pipe organ; the Altar of the Virgin Mary (1520); the chancel pews dating from 1514, the above coats of arms; and the resplendent 14th-century stained-glass windows behind the Twelve Apostles Altar (high altar at head of church). Outside the church stands a figure of St. Jakob holding a shell, indicating this is the Way of St. James, or Jakobsweg in German. You see, way back in the early Middle Ages, it was popular (and still is) for Christians to travel great distances by land to the Spanish town of Santiago de Compostela, in which its magnificent cathedral contains the relics of the apostle St. James (the Greater). One of these pilgrimage routes intersects Rothenburg, heading southwest to Spain and passing this very church, thus its name: St. Jakob’s, or St. James. And so, during your travels in Germany, if you ever see a house of God with the name Jakobskirche (St. James’ Church), you’re on a long and storied path traveling deep into the roots of Christendom. Note: Part of St. Jakob’s church was built over the road; 
hence, to get to the Klingentor (gate at north end of town) you have to actually pass underneath the church.
Night Watchman’s Tour:Though technically not a “sight,” the Night Watchmanclad in his convincingcostume seemingly pulled from a time capsule is quite theattraction in Rothenburg, proven by the 50 to 100 of us who gather in the square eachnight to do the medieval two-step with the black-caped raconteur.His candle-lit beat 
will enlighten you on local histories, the lifestylesof nobles and peasants during theMiddle Ages, while marching past mighty bulwarks, across a drawbridge, and beneath a stone mask designed to spew hot oil during times of siege.This one-hour romp (in English, 7€/person) departs daily mid-March thru Christmas at 20:00 on Market Square. Suggestion: Because the tour is informal and entirely outside, and the Night Watchman is somewhat of a comedian, consider uncorking a bottle of wine with a friend to accompany your stroll. Afterwards, go to Hell (the wine tavern)!
Medieval City Wall: One of the joys of Rothenburg is to dawdle along its rampart promenade, locally Stadtmauer, 20-feet high in places and dating from medieval times.To ramble the whole length (from Spitaltor to Klingentor, or vice versa) is more than a mile long and will take roughly 45-60 minutes. But you can reduce a third of that time by walking the best stretch of wall from Galgentor to Spitaltor, or vice versa, depending on where you’re coming from. 
There are several access points so you can bounce on and off as you please. Don’t forget to bring your camera, as the promenade provides a scenic platform to photograph Rothenburg’s captivating collage of towers, turrets and timbered houses. To get an even loftier perspective, climb the Rödertor tower (see Best Views below) at the midway point. En route you’ll pass numerous plaques embedded in the stone (pictured), which represent people from all over the world who have donated money for the wall’s upkeep, especially the rebuilding of sections blown apart by World War II bombs. In 1950, to symbolically “purchase” a meter of the wall (and have your name honored on a plaque) cost 80dm, about $40. Today, the minimum donation is 1,000€! Note: The promenade can be very narrow in places, and often has low-lying beams making it particularly annoying for tall people. Explore the 16th-century Spitaltor, a powerhouse bastion at the south end of town. Mosey the adjacent cutesy-pie wooden bridge.
Altfränkische Weinstube restaurant & the English Conversation Club: Although not a “sight,” I’m listing this restaurant-wine tavern here because its delicious meals and romantically medieval setting maintained by meticulous Mario Beckh (owner for more than 20 years) and staff is a gratifying experience high on the to-do list of quintessential Rothenburg. Meals range from 9-15€, and a glass of red or white is around 3€ (cash only, daily from 18:00, kitchen till 22:30, call ahead to reserve your table, tel. 09861/6404). I savored my order of pork tenderloin with homemade noodles and garden salad, 15€. Mario told me he looks forward to Wednesday evenings when long-time regulars swing by to shoot the breeze in English in an informal conversation club founded in 1984. Thus a good opportunity for you to mingle with linguistically inquisitive locals, like Hermann the German, whose wife Linda hails from the Badger State: Wisconsin. Conversations kick off every Wednesday from 19:00; (upon arriving ask waiter/waitress to point you to the English Conversation Club table). Note that the 15th-century Altfränkische Weinstube is also a hotel, having six adorable wood-beamed rooms (see Good Sleeps below).GPS: N49 22.720 E10 10.613. To get there, the Altfränkische Weinstube is located on a crooked lane at Klosterhof 7, meters north of St. Jakob’s church in the middle of the Old Town. By foot from Market Square, walk to the top left corner of the plaza and go left at (the yellow-ocher facade of) Gasthof Marktplatz, then swing right around to the enormous church (St. Jakob’s), go left and make the first right (passing underneath the church) onto Klingengasse, then make the second left onto the lane Klosterhof (and the Altfränkische Weinstube is the third door on the right).
Best Views
The Town Hall tower can be seen in the top left of the picture (taken from Röder tower). To climb the tower (adult 2€, youth 13yr or younger .50¢, April-Oct daily 9:30-12:30 & 13:00-17:00—Nov & Jan-March Sat/Sun 12:00-15:00—and Dec daily 10:30-14:00 & 14:30-18:00), enter via the portal in the central archway of the Rathaus and ascend some 250 calorie-burnin’ steps to the open-air observation platform at 197-feet high.
Röder Tower, (hours are irregular but commonly April-Nov 9:00-17:00, adult 2€, youth 14yr or younger .50¢,). Dating from the 13th century, “Rödertor” is the only accessible tower along the medieval wall. (Railers, you know Rödertor as the entry gate into Rothenburg when coming from the train station.) From street level, climb 135 steps to reach coveted views within the enclosed tower. In addition to the views, you’ll be floored by a pictorial exhibition documenting Rothenburg’s plight during World War II—black-and-white photos taken from Rödertor vividly capture the ruinous aftermath of a 1945 bombing raid.
Events & Festivals 2011
There are several events and festivals throughout the year but four stand out.
The Master Draft (der Meistertrunk), www.meistertrunk.de, June 10-13 (Fri-Mon): You’re familiar with the story, how former mayor Nusch drank the tankard dry to save Rothenburg from certain ruin, now you can relive the legendary battle of 1631 and history-making feat as several hundred costume-clad locals reenact the drama over the weekend. The historical military parade begins Sunday afternoon.
Taubertal-Open-Air-Festival, www.taubertal-openair.de, Aug 12-14 (Fri-Sun): During this three-day bash tens of thousands of fans will rock out to a host of bands in the Tauber valley (beneath Rothenburg). Overnight revelers bring a tent.
Imperial City Festival (Reichsstadt-Festtage), Sept 2-4 (Fri-Sun): This resplendent three-day fiesta is the highlight of the festival calendar, when upwards of a thousand locals dressed as knights, merchants, musketeers, pikemen and peasants reenact the history of Rothenburg, including a medieval trial and cattle market. The festival kicks off Friday evening typically around 20:30 with a torch-lit procession into the Old Town and a speech by the mayor on Market Square, then fireworks. On Saturday expect historical reenactments from about 13:00 till 20:00 with music followed by an explosive fireworks show bathing Rothenburg in a rainbow of sparkling color and a late organ concert (about 22:00) in St. Jakob’s church. On Sunday marvel for the Shepherds’ Dance (about 14:30) on Market Square. Needless to say, book your accommodations well in advance.
Christmas Market, Nov 25—Dec 23, daily 11:00-19:00/20:00. If you thought (or heard) Rothenburg was busy during the summer, that’s mild compared to December when the Christmas market is in full swing. Busloads of Germans and foreign tourists invade the turf from Market Square to Kirchplatz (square facing St. Jakob’s church), where vendors tending to their gift-wrapped stalls stocked with Christmassy wares and baked goods are ringin’ up the holiday cheer. Don’t forget to collect a Glühwein mug. And as for Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas village (Weihnachtsdorf), expect to wait in a long line to get in. Avoid weekends if at all possible.
Good Sleeps
There are numerous accommodations in Rothenburg to choose from, thus I dissected the bunch and handpicked a select few to indulge your stay with authentic and affordable digs that are centrally located and therefore easily reachable by foot or automobile, allowing for a smooth arrival. 
Note: All below-mentioned entries come with breakfast and have a shower and toilet in the room, unless otherwise stated. The following are trouble-free directions for both Railers and Drivers.
Railers, from Rothenburg’s small train station into the Old Town you can either catch a cab (roughly 6€) or walk (15 min): exit out the front of the station and go left—at the forward traffic light turn right (Ansbacher Strasse) following the brown Altstadt sign. Continue straight some 300 meters. Go through the medieval town gate (Rödertor) leading onto the cobbled streets Rödergasse then Hafengasse straight to Market Square. Once here, stop! The wood-timbered Marien-Apotheke should be in front of you (beyond it begins Herrngasse), to your right (at top of square) is the pointy building with clock (inside is the TI), and sloping down to your left is the street Obere Schmiedgasse.
From your spot at the corner of Hafengasse and Market Square, you are now just steps away from your restful digs—(see hotel entry for further directions).
Drivers, (for all below-listed accommodations except for the Burg-Hotel and Altfränkische Weinstube) enter Rothenburg through the Spitaltor gate (GPS: N49 22.231 E10 10.866) at the south end of town. Directions from the south, north and autobahn are spelled out below. Once at your digs, reception will give you the skinny on where to park.
Arrival from the South, Romantic Road: Upon passing the Rothenburg city limits sign, turn left at the traffic light following the Spitaltor sign, then make the second (immediate) right leading under the Spitaltor gate. Drive slow; it’s difficult to see oncoming traffic. Out the other side is the cobbled street Spitalgasse—(see hotel entry for further directions).
Arrival from the North, Romantic Road: Follow signs to Donauwörth. You’ll pass several traffic lights. At about the eighth light turn right following the Spitaltor sign, then make the second (immediate) right leading under the Spitaltor gate. Drive slow; it’s difficult to see oncoming traffic. Out the other side is the cobbled street Spitalgasse—(see hotel entry for further directions).
Arrival from the Autobahn: Follow sign to Rothenburg. After about 1 mile turn left at the traffic light (there’s also a gas station here) direction Donauwörth. At the second traffic light turn right following the Spitaltor sign, then make the second (immediate) right leading under the Spitaltor gate. Drive slow; it’s difficult to see oncoming traffic. Out the other side is the cobbled street Spitalgasse—(see hotel entry for further directions).
$ — pocket-friendly, 60€ or less
$$ — moderately priced, generally between 60€ and 100€
$$$ — upper end, generally between 100€ and 170€
$$$$ — superior, from 180€
$ (hostel) Jugendherberge, [HI] (Mühlacker 1, tel. 09861/94160, closed January, Internet 2€/hr). Located at the south end of the Old Town, Rothenburg’s 500-year-old hostel accommodates 182 beds in 45 rooms. Although picturesque, this Hosteling International (HI) property—having laundry (5€/load), cheap meals (6€), and same-sex dorms only—in my opinion is pricey for a hostel considering there are other reasonable options in Rothenburg. For example, if a traveler is a non-HI member 27 years or older it will cost him/her 29.50€ per night for a bed in a dorm room. Ouch! Thus I suggest you either pay extra for the single (private) room or stay elsewhere affordable (like Liebler, Raidel or Uhl). PRICE (includes breakfast and sheets), dorm bed 22.40€, sgl 32.40€ (with shower-toilet in room), dbl 51€ (with shower-toilet in room).CC: VC, MC. Note:Must be a member or an extra charge (3.10€/night) will apply. Must be 26 years of age or under or an extra charge (4€/night) will apply. (There is no age restriction regarding heads of families.) GPS: N49 22.334 E10 10.748. Railers, to reach the hostel from Market Square, march all the way down Obere Schmiedgasse, straight through the clock tower and onto Spitalgasse—ahead, turn right just past Gasthof zur Goldenen Rose at (lane) Rossmühlgasse to your digs only steps farther on the right. 
Drivers, this property is not recommended for reasons explained above.
$ Gästehaus Liebler, (Pfäffleinsgässchen 10, tel. 09861/709-215, free Wi-Fi). On a quiet and quaint lane around the corner from Hell (wine tavern), Frau Liebler affords her valued guests two sizeable ground-floor double rooms with kitchenettes (offered with/without breakfast) and one large holiday apartment on the second floor (that requires a minimum stay of at least two nights). PRICE, cash only, 48-55€ per double room with breakfast (or 38-42€ without breakfast), holiday apartment 50-80€ (rate depending on season). GPS: N49 22.565 E10 10.688. Railers, to reach Gästehaus Liebler from Market Square, continue straight past fountain and Marien-Apotheke, make the first left (Pfäffleinsgässchen)—narrow lane just past the Käthe Wohlfahrt store—and continue down Pfäffleinsgässchen to Gästehaus Liebler on the left. Drivers, this option is best-suited for Railers because you can’t drive onto Pfäffleinsgässchen to unload and the nearest parking area is a few-minute walk.
$$ Gästehaus Raidel, (Wenggasse 3, tel. 09861/3115, free Wi-Fi, closed Jan-March). 
Situated on a quiet street in the middle of medieval Rothenburg, this historic and handsome half-timbered guesthouse, dating from the 15th century, won’t disappoint. Wander up creaking staircases and past common areas wonderfully furnished with antiques and paintings. Herr Raidel, the owner, a reserved man in his mid-60s who speaks little English and moonlights as a musician and carpenter, crafted most all of the internal woodwork himself, including the bed frames. In the breakfast room, sleuth out the pillar bearing his likeness (complete with handlebar moustache). PRICE, cash only, sgl 45€, dbl 69€, trpl 90€, two-room suite 120€, extra bed 15€. Note: If you’re arriving late, call ahead to notify Herr Raidel. GPS: N49 22.510 E10 10.823. Railers, to reach Gästehaus Raidel from Market Square, bounce down Obere Schmiedgasse and go left at the second street (Wenggasse) to your digs at No. 3 (left). Drivers—see directions at the top of this section on how to reach the Spitaltor gate—once through the Spitaltor gate continue straight through the next tower, make the second right on Wenggasse and Gästehaus Raidel is up on the left at No. 3. Unload out front then have Herr Raidel direct you to free street parking.
$$ Hotel Uhl, (Plönlein 8, tel. 09861/4895, free Wi-Fi and use of Internet computer in lobby). Situated at the foot of the photogenic Sieberts(turm) clock tower in the Old Town, café-and-restaurant Uhl—by the way, Uhl means “owl”—is a short-and-scenic walk from Market Square. 
Family run for more than three decades, the owl is packed with sweetness, literally. Step through Uhl’s front door and you’ll walk bang into a long glass counter resplendent with delicious-looking cakes, pies and pastries all freshly baked on premises. (Pictured: Robert, the innkeeper, watching over the sweets.) If not already devoured by other guests, a selection of these sweet treats may be available as part of your breakfast buffet in the morning. Upstairs, rooms are grandmotherly cute, cosy and clean. Suggestion: Request a room at the back of the hotel with views of the Tauber valley instead of a front-facing room with possible street noise. PRICE, sgl 39-59€, dbl 62-85€, trpl 88-108€, family (4 beds) 105-129€, fully contained apartments for longer stays available (located on a side street 100 meters from Hotel Uhl). CC: VC, MC, AE. GPS: N49 22.455 E10 10.811. Railers, to reach Hotel Uhl from Market Square, mosey all the way down Obere Schmiedgasse to the clock tower and your digs (right). Drivers—see directions at the top of this section on how to reach the Spitaltor gate—once through the Spitaltor gate continue straight through the next tower and Hotel Uhl is on the left. You can park temporarily in front of the hotel to unload, then have staff direct you to free street parking or to the hotel’s private garage (6€/day).
$$ Altfränkische Weinstube, (Klosterhof 7, tel. 09861/6404, free Wi-Fi). Positioned on a crooked lane meters north of St. Jakob’s church in the middle of town, one of Rothenburg’s most popular restaurants is also known for its adorable wood-beamed accommodations, decorated in the spirit of medieval Germany. Its décor is not kitschy, however, the Altfränkische Weinstube indeed dates from the Middle Ages. A steep, narrow staircase climbs from the ground-floor restaurant to the hotel’s six comfortable rooms that are fronted by window boxes flush with flowers resplendent in color. I hope you find this 650-year-old building as exceptionally quaint as I do. Note: At the Altfränkische Weinstube cash is king, credit cards are not accepted. As mentioned above, the in-house restaurant is very popular, thus dinner reservations are highly recommended (even for hotel guests), especially weekends and Wednesday evenings. Speaking of the latter evening, try to make it Wednesday to partake in the camaraderie afforded by the English Conversation Club. Lastly, staff here mainly serve the restaurant thus hotel guests are pretty much on their own other than the hospitality of Mario Beckh, the innkeeper, who is always busy running about. Upon arrival, when you check-in, if nobody is around, give a holler and somebody will eventually appear. PRICE, cash only, sgl 59€, dbl 65-82€, trpl 89€. GPS: N49 22.720 E10 10.613. Railers, from Market Square, walk to the top left corner of the plaza and go left at (the yellow-ocher facade of) Gasthof Marktplatz, then swing right around to the enormous church (St. Jakob’s), go left and make the first right (passing underneath the church) onto Klingengasse, then make the second left onto the lane Klosterhof (and the Altfränkische Weinstube is the third door on the right). Drivers, instead of entering Rothenburg via the Spitaltor gate, enter the Old Town from the north via the ultra-narrow Klingentor gate and continue straight (on Klingengasse); Klosterhof is the third right (you’ll see a sign pointing Reichstadt Museum); unload out front then have staff point you to a space.
$$$ Hotel Gerberhaus, (Spitalgasse 25, tel. 09861/94900, free use of Internet computer or Wi-Fi for purchase, bike-rental available, has laundry—7€/load). Nestling in the shadows of Rothenburg’s medieval promenade and fortifications, Hotel Gerberhaus is well-postioned in the Old Town. 
Moreover, its doll-house charm and wood-beamed structure make overnighting here a memorable experience. Dating from the 16th century, historic Gerberhaus is family run by Inge, Kurt and their children. They beautify the rooms in traditional Frankish-style; employ hypo-allergenic bedding; and dish up a nourishing breakfast buffet to start the day, having a large variety of tasty items for you to choose from, for example meats, cheeses, cereals, yogurts, fresh fruits, juices, jams, scrambled eggs. Another trip highlight, the hotel’s back garden is an oasis of relaxation, an idyllic place to listen to the birds sing, read a book, or watch troops of enthralled tourists stroll the old-town wall. PRICE, sgl 65-75€, dbl 79-120€, trpl/quad 139-165€, family apartment 180-200€. CC: VC, MC. Stay two nights, pay cash and receive a 10% discount! GPS: N49 22.369 E10 10.821. Railers, to reach Hotel Gerberhaus from Market Square, saunter all the way down Obere Schmiedgasse, straight through the clock tower and onto Spitalgasse—ahead at No. 25 (left) are your digs. Drivers—see directions at the top of this section on how to reach the Spitaltor gate—once through the Spitaltor gate continue straight on Spitalgasse and Hotel Gerberhaus is ahead at No. 25 (right). Unload out front and have staff direct you to free street parking or to the hotel’s private garage (7€/day).
$$$ Burg-Hotel, (Klostergasse 1, tel. 09861/94890, free Wi-Fi and use of Internet terminal). For some 30 years Gabriele Berger-Klatte (who grew up in the picturesque Markusturm) has run this dreamy boutique hotel that literally sits on the edge of Rothenburg. Like a battlement, the Burg Hotel is perched upon the town’s medieval fortifications. Have your breakfast on the town wall, or savor it in the adjoining garden belonging to a former 12th-century monastery. The Burg-Hotel offers 15 elegant rooms and suites, many with tantalizing views of the Tauber valley. If you’re looking for a romantic getaway, you’ll find it here! Note: Newly constructed on the lower level, adjacent to the 50-person concert room in the atmospheric Steinway Cellar, is the private “wellness center” (10€/adult or free if you stay 3 or more nights). Like being in your own health spa, you can relax alone (or with a partner) in a sauna or soak in the symphony tub (feel and see the music via sound and colors, bring your favorite CD), and rinse off in the massaging shower. Tanning bed and treadmill also included. PRICE, sgl/dbl 100-170€, tower suite 150€; three-room family apartment (dating from 17C) also available 155-220€ (depending on how many people, 2-5). All major CCs accepted. Park in hotel garage (7.50€/day) or free out front. Bike rental, 7.50€/day. GPS: N49 22.644 E10 10.538. Railers, from Market Square, mosey down Herrngasse, continue straight past the fountain to house No. 32 (right) and shoot through the adjacent lane to the Burg-Hotel. Drivers, instead of entering Rothenburg via the Spitaltor gate, enter the Old Town via the Galgentor gate from (street) Vorm Würzburger Tor. Follow Stadtmitte sign. On the other side of the gate continue straight all the way (through packs of tourists) to the Burg-Hotel at the end (Klostergasse).
$$$ Gotisches Haus, (Herrngasse 13, tel. 09861/2020, free Wi-Fi in all rooms and use of Internet computer in lobby). Capture the spirit of the Middle Ages behind closed doors in these 4-star, 700-year-old digs with modern elevator. 
Centrally located, just a short jog from Market Square, the Gotisches Haus exudes cartloads of its namesake “Gothic” character, starting with the hotel’s authentic stone-and-timber reception area (also breakfast room). Step over 15th-century weaponry such as swords, shields and halberds encased into the hallway floorboards en route to your room. Each room is spacious yet cozy and combines the romantic ambiance of medieval Rothenburg without sacrificing all the mod cons. From home, go to the Gotisches Haus website and pick out your favorite room; (note that rooms No. 30 & 34 have a balcony). PRICE, dbl from 96€, suite 178€/190€. All major CCs accepted. GPS: N49 22.606 E10 10.644. Railers, from Market Square, stroll past the Marien-Apotheke and down Herrngasse to the Gotisches Haus left of the fountain. Drivers—see directions at the top of this section on how to reach the Spitaltor gate—once through the Spitaltor gate continue straight through the next tower and up the cobbled street, being careful of the umpteen tourists who give you a dirty look for the nuisance of having to get out of your way. Once at Market Square, go left (passing the historic fountain and Marien-Apotheke on the left), straight down Herrngasse and the Gotisches Haus is left of the next fountain. Unload out front then have reception direct you where to park.
(This page was last updated July 2011)
COMMENTS
PLEASE take a moment to let me and others know your thoughts about Rothenburg, or the information on this page, or perhaps you have a question about a particular sight. Simply type in your comment below and click "Post as" (note that you can login via your Facebook or Twitter account in which case we'd get to see your avatar). To finish, this is an open message board, thus please refrain from using foul language or disrespecting others. Thank you, Brett Harriman