Self-guided Salzburg, Austria
On this page are the following sections:
Free Salzburg,
Sights and DIY tour,
More Sights,
Best Views & Hikes
Free SALZBURG
(1) For an economical exploration of Salzburg, set off on my do-it-yourself orientation tour, Mozartplatz to Mirabell (see below).
(2) To relive a movie classic, embark on the most popular outing in this guidebook: my Sound of Music do-it-yourself tour. Watch the movie free every evening at 20:00 at the JUFA hostel-hotel.
(3) Capture a memorable view from the Stein Terrasse.
(4) Though technically not without cost, the Salzburg Card is mentioned here because it’s such a good deal!
(5) A trip to Salzburg wouldn’t be complete without a stroll through the Mirabell Gardens (included in DIY orientation tour); and within this magical open-air setting listen out for the free hour-long brass-band concerts held May-August every Wed 20:30 and Sun 10:30.
(6) Aviation aficionados must visit Hangar-7, an ultramodern structure housing vintage aircraft.
(7) Grave seekers will unearth Mozart’s wife Constanze and his father Leopold in St. Sebastian’s Cemetery.
(8) Hike the scenic and dramatic Kapuzinerberg.
PURCHASE the full do-it-yourself Salzburg, Lake District & The Sound of Music destination guide, pdf file download or traditional-style guidebook (pictured below). See this guidebook on Amazon.com
Click thumbnail for larger image (but note the actual size of the guidebook is 5.06" x 7.81", not what's shown).
Brett Harriman (Photoshoped) is seen here holding the Salzburg, Lake District & The Sound of Music guidebook with old-town Salzburg in the background. (2012 guide out soon) (Background photo courtesy of ©Salzburg Tourism.) See this guidebook on Amazon.com
Sights
In this section, many of Salzburg’s sightseeing attractions are listed within my 2-hour do-it-yourself orientation tour of the city (see below). The following is a short list: Residenz, Cathedral, Fortress, St. Peter’s Cemetery, Festival Halls, Old Market Square, Mozart’s birthplace, boat rides, Mirabell Gardens, Mozart’s second residence (Wohnhaus). Note that additional attractions are listed within the More Sights section below, such as the Museum of Modern Art, Schloss Hellbrunn (including trick fountains), Salzburg zoo, Brew World, Untersberg mountain cable car.
DO-IT-YOURSELF SALZBURG TOUR
Mozartplatz to Mirabell—2.5 hours
You’re fortunate, because today you are in Salzburg, one of Europe’s most beautiful cities and my personal favorite. I had a guy once on one of my tours to Salzburg who, after each site we visited, said: “Just leave me here.” I wasn’t quite sure what he meant; maybe he wasn’t happy with the tour, so I had to ask him if everything was okay. He replied: “Just leave me here, ’cause I never wanna go home.”
You may not fall in love with Salzburg as this tourgoer did but I do hope to at least educate, as well as entertain, you during our walk together. So come on, and let’s discover Salzburg, Mozartplatz to Mirabell.
What’s more, I’ve sprinkled this tour with sights made famous in the movie, “The Sound of Music.” (Fans can combine this city tour with my SOM Walking Tour by following the ‘SOM fans’ notes included with each related entry.)
Start early to maximize your time (by 10:00 is fine). Wear comfy shoes; you have a fair bit of walking to do, enough to work off a super-sized strudel. Allow at least 2 hours; this does not include time spent touring the attractions. Note that all the attractions listed in this DIY tour are free with the Salzburg Card. You can buy the card at the TI where we start our tour on Mozartplatz. I suggest you walk with me through town to orient yourself then head back to sights of interest and begin using your card to maximize its value. Also note that I’ll point out the toilets en route starting immediately with those at the Salzburg Museum (off Mozartplatz), and midway through the tour we bounce past a few food options: a casual eatery (before cemetery), an established restaurant (after cemetery), and a produce market (by Mozart’s birthplace) recommended for a quick bite or a take-away picnic (to throw down on the opposite bank of the river or in the Mirabell Gardens).
Ready? Let’s begin on tourist-trampled Mozartplatz (GPS: N47 47.936 E13 02.873) in front of the sizeable statue of the square’s namesake, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart....
NOTE: The do-it-yourself Salzburg tour is included in the guide for sale here.
ALSO reserved exclusively for buyers of Salzburg, Lake District & The Sound of Music are the guides to the lake districts of Fuschlsee, Wolfgangsee, Mondsee and Hallstätter See, and the provincial towns of Werfen and Oberndorf (home of the Christmas carol "Silent Night") as well as my Sound of Music do-it-yourself tour, Walking and Driving.
(See Comments at the bottom of the page and feel free to add one of your own!)
More Sights
Note that all the attractions listed in this section are either free to enter or are free with the Salzburg Card, except for the last two entries: the luge and salt mines.
St. Sebastian’s Cemetery & Church, (daily 9:00-16:00, April-Oct till 18:30). Built in late-Gothic style from 1505-1512, St. Sebastian’s Church fronts a quaint cemetery landscaped a century later under the reign of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. It makes sense that Wolf Dietrich chose this memorial park to be buried, eternally showcasing his holy eminence within a stately rotunda mausoleum marking the center of the grounds. Also buried here is Philippus Paracelsus, renowned 16th-century alchemist who cured the incurable; Mozart’s father, Leopold; and Mozart’s widow, Constanze. Both Mozarts are described below. GPS: N47 48.259 E13 02.847. To get there from the Old Town, cross the river via the Staatsbrücke (main bridge) and climb Linzergasse to No. 43 (left). Now back up a handful of meters to the wrought-iron gate opening into the cemetery. Inside, go straight to Wolf Dietrich and en route you’ll pass the Mozarts at the third grave site on the left.
Mozart, Constanze Weber (b. Jan. 6, 1763 — d. March 6, 1842). Here lies the wife of the great Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Initially, Wolfgang was dating the opera singer Aloysia Weber—Constanze’s sister—before he boldly attempted the sibling swap. Wolfgang’s father, Leopold Mozart, loathed Constanze. In a letter to his father, Wolfgang affectionately described Constanze in a plea to inspire a family-like relationship between the two: “She is not ugly, but at the same time, far from beautiful. Her beauty consists of two little black eyes and a nice figure. She isn’t witty, but has enough common sense to make her a good wife and mother.... She understands house-keeping and has the kindest heart in the world. I love her and she loves me…” 
The plea fell on deaf ears and the two parties never reconciled their differences. After Wolfgang’s death, Constanze met and eventually married Nikolaus von Nissen, a Danish diplomat. Ironically, Constanze is buried next to Leopold Mozart in Salzburg. Not only does the placement of these two bitter adversaries side by side drive one’s curiosity, but Leopold must be turning in his grave since Constanze’s headstone (pictured in the middle) hugely dwarfs his (on the right).
Mozart, Leopold (b. Nov. 14, 1719 — d. May 28, 1787). Respected composer, violin teacher, and father of the great Wolfgang Amadeus. Leopold was born in Augsburg, Germany, to middle-class parents, Johann Georg Mozart, a bookbinder, and Anna Maria, a homemaker. Leopold left Augsburg at the age of 17 to attend college in Salzburg. It is here that he lived for the rest of his life, becoming a court composer and deputy Kapellmeister for the prince archbishop. Having a secure job, Leopold married his true love, Anna Maria Pertl, in 1747. She gave birth seven times while living in their modest third-floor apartment at Getreidegasse 9—only two survived infancy: Maria Anna (Nannerl) and Wolfgang Amadeus. While Nannerl showed signs of a promising career as a musician, Wolfgang left no doubt that he was a musical genius. Leopold was so proud of his son that he sacrificed his own career as a composer to coach young Amadeus. But as Wolfgang grew older, his desire for individuality and independence put him at odds with his domineering father. Alas, father and son grew apart after the passing of Mozart’s mother (in Paris in 1778) and his marriage to Constanze. During this traumatic period, Leopold knew he needed his son more than ever. Fortunately, in 1785, he was able to travel to Vienna, where Wolfgang had moved, to see him one last time. Leopold is buried in St. Sebastian’s church cemetery, Salzburg—next to Constanze (see previous entry).
Mönchsberg Lift, locally Mönchsbergaufzug (daily 8:00-19:00, Wed and July-Aug till 21:00, 3.20€ round trip, 2€ one way, youth 6-15yr 1.60€/1€, family 6.40€/4€, or free with Salzburg Card, www.salzburg-ag.at). Don’t forget to utilize this option with your Salzburg Card. This elevator, or Aufzug, lifts visitors up to the Mönchsberg (Monks’ Ridge) observation terrace, one of Salzburg’s most scenic vantage points and therefore a choice setting for Maria and the kids to sing “Do-Re-Mi” in “The Sound of Music.” Besides a gargantuan view, you’ll have access to clean toilets, the Museum of Modern Art (next entry) and a casual café/restaurant. Historically, a single elevator system was excavated from inside the cliff in 1890, whipping beguiled visitors up the 60-meter shaft in a record two minutes. Today, the same trip takes a mere 30 seconds and the three-elevator system transports approximately 1 million guests per year. GPS: N47 48.039 E13 02.356. To get there, the lift is located at Gstättengasse 13. To find it, look above the northwest part of the Old Town for a wood-covered shaft leading up the cliff face; walk towards this and follow the cliff farther along to the road Gstättengasse. Or, if you’re outside of the Old Town, ride bus 1, 4, 7 or 8 to Mönchsbergaufzug. Note: If the weather is nice, take the elevator up and walk the scenic path down (see Mönchsberg Lift & Hiking Trails).
Museum of Modern Art, (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Wed till 20:00, adult 8€, student 6€, combo-ticket with Mönchsberg Lift 9.70€, or free with Salzburg Card, www.museumdermoderne.at). At a cost of 22€ million, Salzburg added the Museum der Moderne (MdM) to its bevy of A-list attractions in 2004. Contemporary art connoisseurs will embrace the modernity high above the Old Town. Boasting 3,000 sq.m (32,000 sq.ft) of exhibition floor space on three levels, MdM’s easily recognizable white facade with castle-like turret planted atop the Mönchsberg is accessible via the above-listed “lift.” Note: Store your daypack/personal items in one of the lockers provided (insert a 1€ coin but you’ll get it back upon reopening locker). Every Wednesday, students pay only 2€ from 18:00 until last admission at 19:30; (the “lift” is also discounted).
Museum of Natural History, locally Haus der Natur, (daily 9:00-17:00, adult 6.50€, student 4€, or free with Salzburg Card, allow 60 min for a visit, www.hausdernatur.at). This fun museum, often a field-trip destination for boisterous school groups, has five levels of everything from outer space matter to sea life (excellent aquariums) and dinosaur displays to reptiles in habitat (2nd floor). Unfortunately, the English-language translations for the exhibits are patchy, i.e. not throughout. Since the museum just completed major renovations (2008-09) the lingual hitch should have been rectified. Nonetheless, a trip here is worthwhile. On the 2nd floor browse the astronomy room for your estimated weight (in kilograms) on the different planets in our solar system; start with Erde (Earth). I weigh, for example, 175 kg on Jupiter; that’s 385 lbs! Who knew. After exploring the cosmos, swing through the neighboring reptile zoo and gape crocs and lizards and other cold-blooded creatures. See if you can stare down a poisonous snake. In case nature beckons you away from nature, toilets are seated on every floor. Next door in the museum’s new (adjoining) annex, the progressive and interactive Science Center, you have the chance to “feel” Mozart (1st floor). But before you do that, you may want to plan your trip here around the following mesmeric happenings: sharks in the aquarium are fed every Monday & Thursday 10:30-10:45, piranhas too on Thursday immediately after the sharks, and the Magic Chemistry Show (in German) will detonate Fridays 10:30 in the lab of the Science Center (follow the throng of school kids). Round off your museum tour with a visit to its popular indoor-outdoor café on the 1st floor (i.e. one level up). Store your daypack/personal items in a locker downstairs (insert a 1€ coin but you’ll get it back upon reopening locker). To get there, the museum is located in the northwest part of the Old Town at Museumsplatz 5, between the river and Mönchsberg Lift.
Schloss Hellbrunn, (www.hellbrunn.at). With its elaborate Baroque gardens, reflecting pools, romantic grottos and trick fountains landscaped on a sprawling 148-acre reserve, Hellbrunn palace was built for the playful and privileged Archbishop Markus Sittikus (1612-1619), who opportunely succeeded his uncle, Wolf Dietrich, whom Sittikus had imprisoned in the fortress. In select circles, these ornate and expansive digs became known as a Lustschloss, or palace of pleasure, where jovial parties and amorous affairs were customary. 
The trick fountains, or Wasserspiele—specially modified statues, footpaths and walls—were a favorite of the archbishop, who enthusiastically lured visitors into the gardens to run a gauntlet of spraying water. The big laugh came when Sittikus invited his guests to the luncheon table, where he seated them onto marble blocks fashioned into stools rigged with hidden water spouts. When Sittikus gave the signal, cold Alpine water shot from the stools—except his, of course—once again saturating his guests, who had to sit unflustered and appreciate that they were the butt of yet another heavenly gag served by the archbishop.
A visit to Schloss Hellbrunn is a delightful experience, in particular a refreshing run through the trick fountains on a warm summer’s day. Families will appreciate the open green spaces and playground for kids. Fans of the movie “The Sound of Music” will discover the famed gazebo. Explorers will pursue the Stein Theater (one-hour trek, signs point the way), where on August 31, 1617, the first open-air opera north of the Alps was performed: “L’Orfeo” by Monteverdi. And most of you will go wild about the zoo (next entry) neighboring the palace.
Since Schloss Hellbrunn covers many acres and attractions, a visit here could take anywhere from 10 min to half a day, depending on your agenda. If you’re not carrying the Salzburg Card, I recommend you allow at least 30 min to stroll the gardens (free to enter). Throw down a picnic? Toilets can be found opposite the gazebo as well as near the palace entrance.
During your visit, you’ll notice a canary-yellow structure on the hillside. In 1615, Archbishop Sittikus required an extra guest house for visiting VIPs, thus he ordered one to be built. The archbishop’s laborious workforce completed the task within a month, and from this stellar effort the structure originated its name: Monatsschlössl, or Month Villa. Today, it is the state-run Volkskunde Museum exhibiting items typifying regional cultures and traditions (April-Oct, daily, 10:00-17:30, 2.50€/1.50€, or free with Salzburg Card).
Stop by the palace April-Oct, daily (end times denote last tour) — April and Oct 9:00-16:30, May/June and Sept 9:00-17:30, July/Aug 9:00-21:00 (after 18:00 fountain tours only), closed Nov-March. The park and gardens are free to enter and open daily year round 6:30-17:00, March and Oct till 18:00, April-Sept till 21:00. Price (combo-ticket palace and fountains), adult 9.50€, student 6.50€, youth 4-18yr 4.50€, family (2+2) 24€, or free with Salzburg Card. Tours of the palace interior are at your own pace with an audio guide and take about 25 min (typically no wait time); tours of the trick fountains are led by a palace guide and take roughly 35 min (with wait times upwards of 45 min, depending on the weather and crowd size). Note: When touring the fountains, if the ground ahead of you is wet, prepare for soakage! On a warm summer’s day, however, this is a welcome reprieve (but the line to get in will not be). GPS: N47 45.790 E13 03.847. To get there, Schloss Hellbrunn is located 5 km south of the Old Town. By bus from the city, hop on #25 direction Untersbergbahn and get off at Hellbrunn, 20-min ride (bus departs Hauptbahnhof, Mirabellplatz, Rathaus, Mozartsteg every 20 min, and every 30 min after 18:00 Mon-Fri and 17:00 Sat/Sun). Drivers, exit the A10 autobahn at Salzburg-Süd and follow signs to Salzburg. At the first traffic light, turn left. On the other side of the village (Anif) you’ll see the zoo’s natural enclosures on the right—continue past the zoo and turn right at the end of the golden wall. Parking is available in three lots (but I recommend the last one on the right. Take a ticket: first 30 min are free, up to 2hr/2€, 3hr/2.60€, max 3.20€). Cyclists, ride pleasant Hellbrunner Allee (via Freisaalweg) to Hellbrunn—(consider riding riverside path back into town).
Zoo, Salzburg, (daily: 9:00-16:30 last entry 15:30, April-May & Sept-Oct till 18:00 last entry 17:00, June-Aug till 19:00 last entry 18:00, adult 9.50€, student 7€, youth 4-14yr 4€, family [2+1] 21.50€, or free with Salzburg Card, bag of animal food 2.70€, allow at least two hours for a visit, www.salzburg-zoo.at). In the early 15th century, the archbishop’s love for animals motivated his holiness to establish a wildlife habitat 5 km south of the Old Town. This evolved into today’s 35-acre Hellbrunn Zoo (adjacent to the above-listed Schloss Hellbrunn), attracting some 270,000 visitors annually. The zoo is home to around 800 animals representing 140 species: zebras, lions, leopards, kangaroos, tigers, wolves, brown bears, rhinos, lemurs, monkeys, flamingos, and a black jaguar, to name a few. Several of the enclosures have been landscaped into the cliff face, providing many animals a natural-as-can-be environment. Note that Fri and Sat nights in August the zoo is open till 23:00 (last entry 21:30), allowing visitors a unique look into the nocturnal behavior of animals. GPS: N47 45.388 E13 03.803. To get there, follow the same directions above for Schloss Hellbrunn except by bus get off at the zoo (one stop after Hellbrunn) and cyclists lock the bike up at the palace and stroll through the gardens to the zoo. Drivers, exit the A10 autobahn at Salzburg-Süd and follow signs to Salzburg. At the first traffic light, turn left. On the other side of the village (Anif) you’ll see the zoo’s natural enclosures on the right. Free parking out front (take ticket at boom gate and have zoo cashier validate it).
Brew World, locally Brauwelt, (daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 16:00, July/Aug till 19:00, last entry 18:00, adult 9€, student 8.30€, or free with Salzburg Card, allow at least 90 min for a visit, www.brauwelt.at). The folks at Stiegl have been brewing Salzburg’s beer since 1492, precisely the year Columbus discovered the Americas. To complement Stiegl’s 500-year evolution, management put together “Europe’s largest beer exhibition.” Tour the interactive museum at your own pace; en route you’ll pass the world’s biggest (43-liter) beer mug and a 15-foot beer tower (Bierturm) stacked with hundreds of beer bottles representing Austria’s bountiful brands and breweries. (In Austria there are about 100 breweries.) After your tour, enjoy three freshly brewed Stiegl beers on the house anywhere in the house, e.g. in the saloon, or beer garden (courtyard), or you can even redeem your beer coupons in Stiegl’s delicious Austrian-style restaurant to complement your meal (Tue-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun/Mon, tel. 0662/8387-1442). Note: Your admission ticket is also valid for a free remembrance gift; typically your choice of either a bottle of Stiegl beer or a beer glass. GPS: N47 47.613 E13 01.355. To get there, Brauwelt is located at Bräuhausstrasse 9, 2 km west of the Old Town. By bus from the city, hop on #1 direction Europark/Red Bull Arena and get off at Bräuhausstrasse, 10-min ride (bus departs Hauptbahnhof, Mirabellplatz, Hanuschplatz every 10 min, and every 20 min after 19:00 Mon-Sat and all day Sun; or you can ride bus #8 direction Outlet Center from Mozartsteg or Hanuschplatz same times as bus 1 except no service on Sun). Exit bus left and make the next left on Bräuhausstrasse. The brewery entrance is a few minutes farther ahead on the right. Drivers, from the city it’s tough to find—ask directions. From the A1 autobahn, exit at “Flughafen” and follow signs to Salzburg/Brauwelt. After driving through the airport underpass, make your second right onto Karolingerstrasse. Follow this straight to the T-intersection at the end, where you’ll turn left. Go straight, the road will curve right, and follow Brauwelt signs closely for the upcoming right turns that circle the brewery and lead into the free visitor parking lot off Bräuhausstrasse.
Hangar-7, (daily 9:00-22:00, free entry, www.hangar-7.com). Head over to the airport and into Hangar-7, an ultramodern shelter made of glass and steel to house a collection of vintage aircraft (dubbed the Flying Bulls) as well as the exclusive Ikarus restaurant, the semiformal Mayday bar, and the casual Carpe Diem lounge. 
Upon arriving, you’ll be greeted with a “boarding pass” permitting you access to the hangar to get acquainted with some modern jets and a few of history’s legendary aircraft, such as the B-25 Mitchell bomber (pictured), F4U Corsair, Lockhead P-38 Lightning, and a DC-6 (that was formerly Yugoslavia’s Air Force One equivalent used to transport Marshal Tito and his centrist guests). From the display floor, look up. Integrated into the apex of the hangar’s ceiling is the translucent Threesixty Bar (open daily from 19:00), featuring a glass floor giving patrons the feel of walking on air. Hangar-7—sponsored by Red Bull, the energy drink—was inaugurated on August 22, 2003 before a crowd of 10,000, including Prince Albert of Monaco, U.S. astronaut “Buzz” Aldrin, and F1 race-car champion Niki Lauda. The event raised nearly $2 million for charity.
Other reasons to visit Hangar-7 are its first-rate bar-lounge and restaurant, revolving art exhibitions and must-use restrooms (downstairs, perhaps Austria’s best, stocked with scented hand towels to enhance your freshening-up experience). At the fine Ikarus restaurant (daily 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-22:00, reservations recommended, tel. 0662/219-777, e-mail: ikarus@hangar-7.com) not only does the menu change monthly but so does the cook! Each year 12 of the world’s best chefs are invited here for the month to prepare their signature dishes alongside those of their native country. Also dissimilar to other restaurants, pilots can literally fly in and park their plane out front. Salzburg’s first non-smoking bar, Mayday (daily 12:00-24:00, Fri/Sat till 01:00) serves a wide range of hand-shaken drinks and healthy, "smart" cuisine. Carpe Diem café-lounge (daily 9:00-18:00, breakfast Mon-Fri 9:00-11:30 and Sat/Sun till 14:00) is a modish place to gel and consume beverages and snacks flown in from around the world while only meters from a World War II fighter-bomber. GPS: N47 47.624 E13 00.498. To get there, Hangar-7 is located on the east side of the airport at Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7. By bus from the city, hop on #2 direction Airport/Walserfeld and get off at Karolingerstrasse, 20-min ride (bus departs Wolf-Dietrich-Str., Mirabellplatz, Hauptbahnhof every 10 min, and every 20 min after 19:00 Mon-Sat and all day Sun; or you can ride bus #8 direction Outlet Center from Mozartsteg or Hanuschplatz same times as bus 2 except no service on Sun). From Karolingerstrasse, it’s a 5-min walk, exit bus left and march to the forward traffic light. Cross the street, continue straight (on Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse) and Hangar-7 is a few hundred meters farther ahead on the right. Drivers, free parking. When coming from the city, turn left before the airport underpass into Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse. When coming from the A1 autobahn, exit at “Flughafen” and follow signs to Salzburg. After driving through the airport underpass, make the first right into Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse.
Untersberg Mountain & Cable Car, (cable cars run daily every 30 min on the hour and half hour from 9:00-16:00, March-June & Oct 8:30-17:00, July-Sept 8:30-17:30—but note the system will be closed for routine maintenance April 4-15 & Oct 27 thru Dec 16, 2011—round trip adult 20€, student 13.50€, dog 6€, or free with Salzburg Card, www.untersbergbahn.at). 
Arguably Austria’s most captivating landmass, Untersberg is a mountain of myth and legend spawned by medieval tales immortalizing heroic emperors and fantastic creatures that dwell in its foothills, peaks and valleys. In more recent times, Hollywood discovered Untersberg’s charm and portrayed a dirndl-clad gal singing “The Sound of Music” on its meadows that led her to the abbey. Locals instead use the mountain’s challenging paths to guide them on the annual race to the summit. Midway along Untersberg’s extensive plateau, a V-shaped crevice forms the natural border between Germany (Bavaria) and Austria. A short distance away on Obersalzberg, Hitler used to stare past Untersberg’s majestic mass and into Salzburg from his giant picture-frame window (at his home, the Berghof). From its valuable marble quarries (still in operation today), Untersberg has been a premier source of building material over the centuries for the construction of numerous structures and statues in the Salzburg region and as far away as Hungary.
But most important, the mountain is home to a sensational cable car system (called the Untersbergbahn, built 1959-61) that was used in the filming of the 1968 movie, “Where Eagles Dare” with Clint Eastwood and Richard Burton. If you get a chance, throw your travels into high gear and ride the cable car up to the scenic heights of Untersberg (pictured here towering above Salzburg’s Old Town). The mountain peaks at 1,865 m (6,117 ft), but the cable car docks at 1,776 m (5,825 ft). This is a perch from which God sits, and from here you can see the world—but more directly the famed Eagle’s Nest, and the mighty Watzmann (Germany’s second-largest mountain), and the inviting lakes of the Salzkammergut, and the glacier ice of the Hohe Tauern. You can enjoy these sights with a hot cup of Glühwein (mulled wine) if you arrive before the snow melts (typically by the end of April). The 50-person cabin will climb the mountain and reach the summit within 9 breathtaking minutes. (Simultaneously, a second cabin will descend from the mountain.) You’ll notice that only two pylons support the whole system, which can be a petrifying thought to some people. Thus, with the price of your ticket, you may receive an extra pair of underwear! To get there, the Untersberg cable car station is located 13 km south of Salzburg’s Old Town. By bus from the city, hop on #25 direction Untersbergbahn and ride it to the end, 30 min (bus departs Hauptbahnhof, Mirabellplatz, Rathaus, Mozartsteg every 20 min, and every 30 min after 18:00 Mon-Fri and 17:00 Sat/Sun). Or, less regular, buses 28 and 840 also depart from the city and stop at Untersbergbahn (signal driver to stop). Drivers, exit A10 autobahn at Salzburg-Süd and head toward Berchtesgaden—after 1 km you’ll see the cable car station on the right (turn at traffic light).
Casino, (free entry but must be at least 18 years of age to enter, ID required; open 364 days, 15:00 till late, slots from 12:00, closed Dec 24, tel. 0662/854-455, CC: VC, MC, DC; www.casinos.at). 
Gamblers, try your luck in Salzburg’s magnificent Baroque casino, set in an 18th-century palace, Schloss Kleßheim, once home to Archbishop Firmian. (Converted into a casino in 1934 but closed during the war and reopened in 1950.) Men, you’re required to wear a jacket and an appropriate shirt (or the casino can typically loan what you need). No tennis or sports shoes permitted. Ladies, there’s no real dress code for you, just look like a winner. Although admission is free, registration is mandatory and a photo ID required. GPS: N47 49.098 E12 59.761. To get there, Schloss Kleßheim is located 4 km northwest of the Old Town. By bus from the city, every second bus 1 stops in front of the casino (look for bus 1 with direction Red Bull Arena in its display, but confirm casino stop with driver), 25-min ride (bus departs Hauptbahnhof, Mirabellplatz, Hanuschplatz every 20 min until about 22:00). Drivers, exit A1 autobahn at Kleßheim, parking is free.
Luge Ride, Dürrnberg, (in good weather May thru mid-Oct daily 11:00-17:00, end-June thru mid-Sept 10:00-18:00, tel. 06245/85105, www.duerrnberg.at, adult one ride 9€, two/16€, three/21€, 20% off with valid Salzburg Card, students and families ask for a discount, combo-ticket with Dürrnberg salt mines 23€). Located some 20 km south of Salzburg, above the town of Hallein at Dürrnberg (near salt mines, see next entry), is Austria’s longest toboggan run, 2.2 km or 1.4 mi. Forget all those other so-called toboggan runs, locally Sommerrodelbahn, this exhilarating and wildly scenic luge ride will make the hair on the back of your neck stand at attention. No kidding. The course is idyllically set upon the peak of a mountain, thus a lengthy yet enjoyable chair lift will carry you to the summit, where the flora is lush and the views are sensational! What’s more, a short hike from the top station will land you on the German border. When you’re ready to ride the luge down, head to the departure area and the operator will supply your sled. Beware, this is not for the faint hearted—it is steep (57% grade), the corners are sharp, and the track is swift! If you want to go full-throttle, allow at least a few minutes to pass before beginning your run so as not to catch the slowpokes ahead of you. Trust me, if one person before you in the previous 5 minutes throttles at a Sunday pace, your speed record is toast! Before you ride down, relax at the summit, explore nature, snap memorable photos, have a beverage at the chalet (or, better yet, throw down a picnic). GPS: N47 39.592 E13 05.558. Railers, ride train from Salzburg to Hallein, then outside station hop on bus 41 to luge (Zinkenlift, total journey 50 min). From the bus stop the cashier is a short stroll into the quaint neighborhood. Drivers, exit A10 autobahn at Hallein (No. 16) and follow brown signs to Salzwelten (meaning salt mines, which are also denoted by a pick-and-hammer symbol). On the other side of town the road will climb to Dürrnberg; after 3 km the salt mines will appear on the right. (To reach the toboggan:) Continue another kilometer farther to the chair lift and parking area on the left. The cashier is then a short stroll into the quaint neighborhood. But if you’re driving in from Berchtesgaden, ask TI (or a local) for directions because the toboggan is less than 10 km via marvelously scenic country roads.
Salt Mines, my humble opinion: Some travelers may be wondering which salt mine is better to visit, Berchtesgaden or Dürrnberg? By far the busier mine is Berchtesgaden, because it’s cheaper and practically on the way to the Eagle’s Nest. However, unlike Berchtesgaden, the Dürrnberg mine offers dynamite views and a reconstructed Celtic village to explore. As for the mines themselves, both are virtually the same: offering deep caverns, wooden slides, and a salty lake. So, to answer the question, which mine is better: they both are (but if I had to pick one, it’d be Dürrnberg). Bottom line: Visit whichever mine best suits your travel itinerary, this includes the world’s oldest mine in Hallstatt.
Salt Mines, Dürrnberg, (April-Oct tours depart regularly every day from 9:00 until last tour at 17:00, rest of year hourly 10:00-15:00, www.salzwelten.at, adult 18€, student/senior 16€, with valid Salzburg Card 14.40€, family [2+1/2+2] 38€/46€; allow 2 hours for a visit, not counting travel time to/fro mines). Some 2,500 years ago, Celtic peoples migrated to Dürrnberg (mountain above the town of Hallein, some 20 km south of Salzburg) to quarry salt. The Celts found tons of the so-called “white gold” here, thus many communities in the region begin or end with the Celtic word Hall, meaning salt. From this ancient settlement above Hallein developed a prosperous salt mine, featuring a subterranean labyrinth of deep tunnels, crystal galleries, swooshing slides and a salty lake. For more than a millennium, “white gold” filled the coffers of Salzburg’s archbishops, as well as the Habsburgs who chronologically followed. Today, salt mining on Dürrnberg has gone the way of the dodo bird and the only mining still in operation is the extraction of money from tourists, who throw on white overalls and experience the former salt caverns like a themed ride at Disneyland. Outside, visitors are treated to a reconstructed Celtic village and distant views of Salzburg. Note: Combine a visit to the salt mines with a dash down the luge (see previous entry). GPS: N47 40.017 E13 05.460. Railers, ride train from Salzburg to Hallein, then outside station hop on bus 41 to salt mines (total journey around 50 min). Drivers, if you’re coming from the A10 autobahn, see directions in the previous entry (Luge Ride). But if you’re driving in from Berchtesgaden, ask TI (or a local) for directions because the salt mines are less than 10 km via spectacularly scenic country roads.
Best Views & Hikes
Stein Terrasse, (daily 12:00-24:00, tel. 0662/882-070, free Wi-Fi with purchase). Atop the Hotel Stein is the must-visit Stein Terrasse, or “stone terrace,” a penthouse café featuring astonishing views of the Old Town and fortress, making hotshots out of novice photographers. I doubt there is a more impressive café view in all of Austria! Hotel Stein can be found at Giselakai 3, adjacent to the river (right bank) and main bridge (Staatsbrücke) crossing to/fro the Old Town. Skip straight through the lobby, past reception, up the steps and take the right elevator to floor 7. There is no pressure to buy; simply go for a look or grab a table and order something, it’s up to you. (Toilets are located on the 6th floor; either get off the elevator there or walk the stairs down one level from the Stein Terrasse.)
Fortress, locally Festung Hohensalzburg. From the turrets of Salzburg’s millennium-old fortress are fabulous views of the Old Town and beyond.
Untersberg Mountain & Cable Car: If you have the time, especially if you’re holding a valid Salzburg Card, this elevating adventure is not to be missed!
Kapuzinerberg & Hiking Trails: Wander up to the yellowed monastery capping the Kapuzinerberg (Capuchins’ Ridge on right bank of river) to reach an abundance of trails and stunning views. The monastery can be accessed via two passageways: one at Linzergasse 14 and the other at Steingasse 9. The latter is best. At Steingasse 9 (GPS: N47 48.098 E13 02.767) you’ll see a plaque memorializing the birthplace of Joseph Mohr (1792), who penned the world-famous Christmas carol, “Silent Night.” From here, climb 256 steps past the adorable St. Johannes chapel to the top (steep, 5 min). At the top (of the main grouping of steps), likely with your legs burning and a shortness of breath, you’re only meters away from two lookout points: one is behind you, and the other is ahead of you (via the three sets of four steps leading to the monastery). For the better view, climb the 11 steps to your right and go right again. At the bottom of the short path you’ll happen upon a battle-worthy turret from medieval times, tremendously scenic views of the Old Town and its imposing fortress (from here I snapped the picture heading this Salzburg guide), and the beginning of an adventurous hike (left and down). Note: If you do decide to go for a lengthy hike here, at times you’ll feel lost. Just remember, all paths heading west eventually arrive back at the monastery and the other lookout point. However, if you prefer to absorb wowing views to battling bushes, turn around and head straight to the other lookout. Adjacent to it is the monastery, and the descending path comes out at Linzergasse 14. From here, left drops to the river and Old Town, and right climbs to the top of New Town and St. Sebastian’s Cemetery.
Mönchsberg Lift & Hiking Trails: Whiz up the elevator to the Mönchsberg (Monks’ Ridge) observation terrace for an unforgettable view of Salzburg (for prices and times see Mönchsberg Lift). If you’re keen for a light nature stroll, follow the next set of directions. From the observation terrace (Aussichtsterrasse), climb the steps and continue straight past the telescope and onto the dirt trail. Parallel the iron railing a short distance—don’t follow the trail leading down—veer right and pass the wooden shack on your left. Fortifications will appear on your left and soon the trail will connect onto a paved route where you’ll see a sign pointing to the Stadtalm. Follow this. The paved route will lead you through an arched passage (and with a little imagination, you’ve stepped through a time warp to the Middle Ages). On the other side of the stone passage you’ll see the Stadtalm sign directing you left along the wall; ignore this for a moment and notice the plaque in front of you (right of archway). It reads: “Here the citizens built a defense system consisting of four towers and a wall, as this is the narrowest part of the Mönchsberg. In 1488, citizen watch units were first referred to as the Salzburg Guard, and in 1816 they were dissolved.” Now, over your right shoulder, wander to the benches and check out the terrific view—that’s Bavaria in the distance. When done, walk the path paralleling the old fortified wall direction Stadtalm. After a minute you’ll reach a narrow portal on the right; go through this. Welcome to the café-restaurant Stadtalm. Are you in awe of the view? To reach the fortress, continue on the path (which turns to pavement). Soon it will fork—go straight to the fortress (Festung, 15 min) or left and down to the Old Town (Altstadt). The 340-odd steps descending to town are called the Clemens Holzmeister Stiege, named after the famous Austrian architect who designed the festival halls located at the bottom.
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(This page was last updated March 2011.)
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